Gusty

Thanks very much for all the advice. I will be joining in Jan . Just being tight and not wanting to spend an extra 15 quid! But the info. Is worth it!!!!! Cheers Andy

Will do thanks. Does that setup sound ok to you? I have a place with a rolling road just around the corner so it will going to them for fine adjustment . Cheers Andy

Hi Bob, Yes I've got an adjustable pulley. I've never done anything like this before just learning as I go! Bottom end is fully rebuilt along with the head and cam. Just pondering on how best to time this fr32 up. If I find TDC on one on the compression stroke , then set crank to 108. Then set number one inlet to max lift and bolt together it should be ok? Thanks for all the replies

That makes sense. Read on Turbosport though , that is not the best way to set it up. One guy said find TDC then set inlet to 3/5ths open on overlap then another guy said have the inlet and exhaust even at overlap on TDC. but surely by doing any of those two methods at TDC the valves would contact the piston?..

Thanks

Read that already thanks. My engine is currently on a stand with cylinder head off. So hopefully will be easier to time up

Hi all, Sorry for hijacking the thread , but it's probably relavent . I am rebuilding a 2.0 pinto that has an Fr32 cam . What's the best way to time it up? I've read you need to find true TDC then turn the crank to 108 ATDC then find full lift on number one inlet then bolts it all together. Then read , again find true TDC then set number one inlet to 3/5ths open at TDC. Very confusing! Any help much appreciated Thanks Andy

I think I. Will probably stick with original genuine pump. Thanks guys.

Thanks for the info. My engine actually idled with very good oil pressure. Engine stripped still running standard shells with no scoring and still in tolerance . I was just going to replace the bearings and rebuild. The oil pump and drive I was going to leave but I would hate to have to take the engine out for the sake of a £20 pump. My concerns are the aftermarket pumps. It's a genuine ford pump that I have at the mo. Thanks again

Problem is are the aftermarket pumps any good?

Is it worth changing oil pump and drive during rebuild or are those strong components on the 2.0 pinto? Cheers Andy

Thank you

Thanks all. Do you know what the NE identifies stamped on the rear flange where the bell housing bolts to the engine? This is definitely the early engine as all main bearings are grooved (all ten halfs) plus the top piston ring is 2mm where as the later engine is 1.6 mm. Which torq sequence should I use for the head bolts as I have now purchased the later spline bolts? Thanks again

This one has the stretch bolts. But if I identified the year correctly these are probably the wrong bolts! Thanks

Yes , used on a variety of engines. The problem I'm having is that I'm doing a full rebuild and I have a Sierra Haynes manual, but my engine code NE is not covered by that manual so I starting to think it may be a Cortna engine. Will the Sierra torq settings be OK to use? Thanks again for all the replies, much appreciated. Andy

Hi, Do you use the two letters from the engine number I.e CG Which is 1982 or is it HM which Is 1987? Also is it possible to identify which car this engine is from? I'm assuming it's a Sierra . Thanks again

Yes 2.0 pinto

Hi, Could someone help me out identifying this lump: CG34238 70HM6015B-A Also has NE cast by bell housing. Thanks

Hi, There is an u leaded head on eBay . Cheers