gr8nomad

Aw, go on, drill through the fuel tank. Stuff the pizza you will not be needing it anyway.

Sorry guys, got caught in the time warp. Sany77uk, it is the body loom that I am talking about - sorry for the confusion. What I can not figure is that none of the colours align with the diagram on the site, nor do they make sense when laid out on the ground. I expected that the 2 ends for the headlights would be identical - wire for high bean, low beam, parkers and earth. Nah, too easy... Its the same at the other end, except that I can not even get 2 ends that look similar. Perhaps I got the version for the Tardis. florin metal works, you are welcome anytime to kick my tyres and eat my bikkies. If you start now you might get here by dinner... DaveD, I am using a Honda S2000 engine and I saved the engine loom from the (local) donor. I intend using a Haltec after market ECU and instrument cluster, and that end of the wiring will be managed by the tuner. I am thinking that engine electronics are a bit beyond my experience. I grew up with SU carbies... Nonetheless, I will check out the links you have suggested - thanks. Cheers Geoff

Al, Do I understand you to mean that there are numerous looms from the factory and they are dependent on which engine you are using? I am down under and am building a Zero GT with a Honda S2K engine. The loom that came with the kit bears NO relationship to the diagram on the Kit Spares site. I have asked GBS, but no reply yet. Cheers Geoff

Surely you can fix it when you put it on the left hand side of hte car where it should be - well that is where mine is...

Thanks Knights_Templar and florin metal works. Florin, the panels sit against the shroud for the rear shocks and mount for the roll bar - a riight angle return is not possible here. K_T, I take some comfort from your comments about it not being hugely noticeable. Still not as happy as I could be, but there you are...

Good morning folks, I am putting together a WB Zero in Australia and do not have the luxury of dropping into Maun Way when I have a question, hence my appeal here. I am looking at the rear panel for my car and at the same time looking at a number of excellent blogs on the subject. The problem is that the rear panel shown in all the blogs is in one piece and goes over the suspension, continuing forward across the rear cresent. This gives a nice clean continuous panel across the top of the rear wing/mudguard. My rear panel comes in two parts; the main part finishes at the top of the arched cut-out for the suspension/shock absorber, and the second part covers the rear cresent and also finishes at the top of the arch cut-out. Clearly there is going to be a join right above the centre of the rear wing. I did Skype the factory on the matter and the response was to overlap the 2 panels (seriously uglu option) or butt joint them (ugly and fraught with danger). How have other WB Zero builders managed to hide or at least minimise the impact of this join?

Hi Boffy, I have to agree, being on the other side of the planet allows them to get away with murder. Perhaps thay have not forgiven the convicts for turning out better than the stock It is frustrating to read in this forum how folk can get their issues resolved by a quick visit to the factory, and as you say even calling by phone is a mission for us. Spain is only 1 hour different from the UK, so it is not all that difficult to give them a call and get things sorted. Having said that it would appear that GBS have their good days and their bad days - knowing which way they are swinging is the trick. BTW, Where is the build manual?

Thanks old_timbo. Believe it or not we never saw the Sierra in Oz - Kiwis had it in estate (statiowagon) form, but it never saw our sunburnt plains. To be frank the Sierra donor parts have already caused me a lot of grief with simple tasks such as replacing the wheel bearings and seals. It beggars belief that I can not source an original bearing, but there you are. I was planning to use a dual master cylinder, but thanks for the advice on cylinder diameters above as it gives me a good starting point. Geoff

Thanks agent-zed, That the thread refered to a different type of construction did get past me, and I thank you for pointing it out. I am getting hold of the tsting equipment in the next couple of weeks and will post the results her when I have done my initial tests (prior to the engineer's official test). Can't help with the lightweight I am afraid. Cheers Geoff

Hi Folks, I an at the stage where I need to purchase a master cylinder for my Zero. It has discs front and rear and I believe it will need a dual cylinder. I am not sure how to get the dimensions of the cylinders in the calipers that came with the kit so I can work out the best size master cylinder. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Cheers Geoff

Hi folks, I was rather hoping that there may have been an answer to this question - especially as I se it was first launched in 2009. I am in Oz and facing the test on my wide body Zero kit. Eddy, the guy in Orange NSW I bought the kit through has a conventional body Zero and has tsted his to 3300nm, however I am reading the current ADR's and they are suggesting 4000nm as a pass figure! They do qualify this figure with a statement that it can be less than 4000 if the manufacturer of the chassis can prove that it was engineered to a lower stiffness. I have not had an answer to the question from GBS yet, but I live in hope... BTW, it can be done by the builder (although here the testing engineer has to record the data), but it is not cheap ( Eddy helped his engineer build the equipment used in the test and it cost over $1,500 - £975) that's a lot in he scheme of things for a piece of test equipment. It also costs about $1,500 for the engineer to do the test - if he provides the equipment. If any one has done the test over there or in the U.S I would really like to hear the results. Cheers Geoff