Pedal Box Frame Pics Please

[Guest The Modfather]

Here's another little dilema that I have.

 

I need to make a whole new pedal box frame as my bike carbs are in the way of the master cylinder (no servo fitted) so I will need to have a remote master cylinder on the passnger side.

I have dismantled the sierra pedal box, retaining the pivot shaft and spacers, but I need inspiration on building a whole new pedal bax assembly. I have bought some 16mm x 16mm square tube, and I am thinking of making a cube with mild steel plate covering the outside, and the whole lot bolted to the bulkhead. The brake and clutch pivot bar will be fed through one side and will be held in place using the circlips originally on it, so that it can still removed to replace the quadrant if needs be. The cube will have diagonal bars to ensure rigidity and to stop any possible flexing when braking hard!

The accelerator will be in its "own" compartment.

 

I will be making an actuating bar that will have rose joints to mount securely. There will be a paddle from the foot pedal and a paddle activating the master cylinder. I have done some rough Paint pictures and are shown below.

 

I would like to see other peeps pedal boxes if they have made them themselves, and if you were to make it again what would you change?

 

 

[Guest The Modfather]

Just found this on ebay, and may be able to either use it complete WITH the servo, or chop it about and just use the bar and a master cylinder?????

 

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/FORD-ESCORT-MK7-BRAKE-SERVO-VACUUM-CONTROL-BAR-ROD-/280551284739?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item415228e003

[fry61]

Isn't it more usual to move the master cylinder inboard (cockpit side) & change the petal fulcrum from above cylinder to below?

[Guest The Modfather]

Isn't it more usual to move the master cylinder inboard (cockpit side) & change the petal fulcrum from above cylinder to below?

 

It would be so awkward to get to as my bulkhead is solid, not like the 2b alligator front.

I need to go back out and think about it and try and keep it simple. Making this bar contraption means getting all the fulcrum angles spot on to get the right ratios.

I might be able to spin the MC around to face inward and have a remote reservoir. The standard sierra MC is quite long so I will need to find a shorter MC so that I don't have to cut into the bulkhead.

[chris n]

Just found this on ebay, and may be able to either use it complete WITH the servo, or chop it about and just use the bar and a master cylinder?????

 

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/FORD-ESCORT-MK7-BRAKE-SERVO-VACUUM-CONTROL-BAR-ROD-/280551284739?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item415228e003

 

 

That's the set up we were on about today Daz. May be worth a punt at, at that price

[Guest woolly]

personally don't like the cross bar idea, i would take the opportunity to go with a bias box mounted to the floor? & bulkhead this will bring thee masters out a lot lower down.

 

just a idea. as there is enough room down there bit of a p!!s to get at.

[fry61]

My sierra master has failed due to rusty internals;so am in the process of fitting a KA m/c which is considerably shorter;P.M. if more details req.

[Guest The Modfather]

My sierra master has failed due to rusty internals;so am in the process of fitting a KA m/c which is considerably shorter;P.M. if more details req.

 

Hi Bob.What is the bore size like on the Ka unit? I've been reading that the Fiesta one is what most people go with.

[Guest The Modfather]

This looks small in length

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/FORD-FIESTA-MK4-NEW-BRAKE-MASTER-CYLINDER-/250624039223?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3a5a5b5937

[fry61]

Will measure & post later,Darren.

[fry61]

 

Old sierra M/C = 26.6mm O/D x 168mm long bulkhead to end

Ka 150490132043 M/C = 24.8mm O/D x 102mm " "

Went for Ka replacement as we are not using servo & Longboarder (I think) recommended Ka replacement to increase brake line pressure; above measures are outside diameter, as no bore size shown on wrapping. Only problem for us was all tappings are back to front;the mount is exactly same footprint but at 5 to 5 instead of 10 to 4.(clockface)

Old sierra unit is stamped 22.2 bore so Ka unit should be around 19mm although I can't find a stamp.

Edited October 10, 2010 by florin metal works

[Guest The Modfather]

Only problem for us was all tappings are back to front

 

Do you mean that the front outlets are at the back and vice versa? I have seen one on ebay quite cheap, but the resevoir has a hose outlet. Would this just be a case of a piece of hose with a bung in it?

Also, how did you connect the plunger to the pedal?

 

Thanks Bob

 

Darren

[fry61]

Hose outlet is bunged as new,need to cut if using for clutch. I am whitting a new push rod to go between pedal & M/C,but mine is still "correct" way round. According to Foz, he connected his Ka M/C thus:- 2 tappings nearest bulkhead to front left & right discs; & end tapping to rear 3-way connector.

Have you got any spare headroom for cylinder behind dash; maybe only need to extend pedal up above existing pivot to give same leverage lenghts & reverse push to rear.

[Guest The Modfather]

Thanks Bob.

 

I don't want it under the dash as it will be a nightmare to get to, as the bulkhead is fixed. I need to keep it in the engine bay. The Ka seems what I need as it is short. I may be able to bring the whole pedal assembly towards the driver as I am effectively looking to make a "removable cube" with the pedals using the original sierra pivot bar, but held inside a new frame, totally throwing away Henry's cast one, as per earlier diagram.

I think it's doable, just need to work out dimensions etc. The old pivot bar sat at 3.5" on centre in the old casting when it was attached to the car, so I will be replicating that height.

 

I will order the Ka one tonight.

 

Darren

[Guest The Modfather]

Here are some pics of my new pedal box so far.

 

I will clad the "front" part with 3mm mild steel sheet due to the master cylinder bolting to it, and the sides will be 0.6mm mild steel. I will have the pedal pivot bar hanging out on the "passenger" side of the box and will secure it with the circlip. I will reinforce the hole with piece of 3mm sheet so that the bar will be effectively going through 3.6mm, and this will be at both ends as I will also have the same at the other end.

I have kept the accelerator pedal seperate and this will also bolt straight to the front sheet steel.

The whole lot will be bolted to the bulkhead and the flat bit with 8 bolts in total, so I don't think that it will move bearing in mind it only had 2 bolts holding down the original set up!

I have angled the front so that the reservoir will be horizontal once its bolted in.