Yet More Teething Problems

[Guest tom2b]

Ive noticed my charging light has nearly always been just lit but the car always started fine so i assumed it was a glitch and not worth worrying about. What a stupid warning to ignore. A few weeks ago the battery went flat after having my lights in as it was dark. Tonight it started to splutter at higher revs with my lights on, then the dash lights went dimmer along with the headlights and the rev clock stopped working. Stopped at the petrol station about 20 metres from my drive, filled up and it when i went to start it dead as a dodo. FInally bumped it, drove down the road with the car running fine with no headlights on, turned them back on, the car went bang with a flame out of the exhaust and ran like a bag of nails, turned them off and it ran ok again.

Can i safely say my alternator which longboarder described as being ancient is knackered???

Just spent £160 on my 206 today with its service and new pads alround so you can imagine how well this went down tonight!

[Guest salty_monk]

Diode pack is probably lunched from heat. You can get a replacement part, personally I would get a smaller alternator (also more heat resistant) off of a daihatsu or similar. I think Nigel has one in his & Big Jim posted up a nice picture of his replacement went his went pop last time... It's not uncommon though I haven't experienced it myself...

 

Dan

[Big Jim]

Diode pack is probably lunched from heat. You can get a replacement part, personally I would get a smaller alternator (also more heat resistant) off of a daihatsu or similar. I think Nigel has one in his & Big Jim posted up a nice picture of his replacement went his went pop last time... It's not uncommon though I haven't experienced it myself...

 

Dan

Salty is correct (this time) the diode pack in the Lucas alternator doesn't like heat, so where do we stick it, right under the exhaust.........

A friendly alternator repair place will charge you approx £25 to fit a new diode pack, or go for a different alternator completely. whatever you do, try to give it some protection from the heat of the exhaust.

[Guest salty_monk]

woohoo, that's twice this week!! :lol:

[steve in stockport]

the diode pack/voltage regulator on my bosch alternator packed up not long ago, got a brand new one from a local auto electrician for £15.

 

only 2 screws that hold it in place - took 5 minutes to replace while the alty was still in place

 

Steve

[Guest tom2b]

Im now going to show my electrical ignorance but where exactly is the diode pack on the alternator?

[steve in stockport]

the voltage regulator and brush pack is at the back end of the alty on the bosch one fitted to mine, fastened on with 2 small set screws

[Guest hypermick]

Tom,.

 

First you need to identify the alternator type. Best & cheapest way (speaking here as an ex-motor factor store owner) take it along to your local motor shop, get them to identify it and ask if they have an Intermotor or similar parts catalogue,. If possible look up the regulator and rectifier types applicable, and price them.

However the condition of the rotor and stator are important and these really need testing. What you shouldnt do is assume that odd bits will fix the problem.

 

The basic operation of the unit is that the rectifier turns AC into DC ( via the diode pack)and the regulator just does what it says, keeps the battery topped up with charge so that it stabilises to between 13.8 and 14.25 volts. Whats happened in your case by the looks of it is that the regulator has stopped working, the whole system has fallen low on volts, taking with it the control voltage to the ECU, hence all the spluttering usually with wierd instrument display readings too,..etc,..

 

If you summon the courage to strip the unit yourself, you can do some continuity tests on the rotor at the slip ring where the brushes wipe the surface, also make sure the windings there are not shorted to the rotor former itself. As for the stator this usually has three connectors on it, which will show continuity between two selected pairs at a time. If you connect one pair to a heavy DC power supply (or protected output battery charger if heavy duty enough) and use the tip of a screwdriver dangling lightly directly in the centre of the stator away from the sides you can do an interim test. As you switch the power ON the stator will flux a field and the screw driver should swing towards the inside of the metal band, same as a magnet pulls. If it doesnt you have an open phase and wont be economical to repair.

 

If youre uncertain about anything above (just being cautious here, - not teaching you to suck eggs !) get the right help before you test, especially with the stator check.

 

Mick.

[Longboarder]

Toms alternator has an external regulator, weighs as much as the pinto engine and is out of the ark. Don't mend it. Swop it for something a third of the size with twice the output.

 

Nigel

[Guest hypermick]

AH,...................as old as that eh ?

 

Something small then with a couple of DC connectors and one for the ignition lamp OR if you can get it in physically a good old fashioned Lucas 18 ACR,. simple to fit.

 

 

Mick.

[Guest tom2b]

Thanks for the help, Nigel i intend to swap it for a smaller one. However a friend of mine who rescued me last night when it died at the petrol station has got some old escort alternators that are good, ill probably fit one of those for the time being until i get a better one from a scrappy.

[Longboarder]

One that fits and works is good enough!

 

Nigel

[Guest tom2b]

My mate gave me a spare ford alternator he had off of a working car, fitted it and so far so good!