Tryin To Pedal

[Guest bloke]

hi all

 

im up to lookin at padal assembly (along side loads of other bits) an am strugglin with positioning

 

back plate flush at chassis servo touchin 4 to 1 fannymould

tip pedal box forward an m cylinder sticks up prod past bonnet?????

 

do you need the servo?

 

any help greatly received

[Guest Battery Bill]

Hi Bloke

Its really a juggling match you have to move one thing to clear another, eventually it seems to fit. Have you cut the right hand lug off the steering rack support then you can get it all over to the right and (in our case) it seemed to fit OK. The bonnet sits on top fine, Mind you if it did not I think we would have had to cut another Bulge otherwise I would not have fitted in.

[Guest daveg]

Today I bolted the pedals up in their final position :angry:

 

When I was linning everything I carefully set the gap between the exhaust and the steering column BUT...I didn't rotate the steering shaft!, imagine how slightly miffed I was when I did and found it was excentric

 

i.e. it moved to within 5mm of the exhaust...hope it passes sva

 

Dave

[Guest bloke]

sva ill need to get a book, never thought of them, sooooo much to do!

anyway ta for the replys

 

pedals are a compromise excersise, move the steering column and reduce accelerator pedal space

 

im thinkin of mounting the acc pedal from the side chassis tube not the servo mount

 

gives a travel direction paralel with the chassis an moves the pivot to allighn with other pedals?????

 

any one else done this

[Guest TerryBarry]

I had a similar clearance problem - looked fine until rotated through 180° then clearance reduced to about -2mm. A bit more fiddling and it came out all right.

 

I fitted accelerator pedal to servo panel but spaced off bracket to bring nearer to driver's seat and then adjusted cable at carburettor mounting to bring in line with brake

 

Terry

[Guest ians2B]

Hi Bloke,

As Bill and Joey say I had to cut the tab off the steering column mount too. Then with lots of small jiggling it does all fit. Except in my case I had to bend and reweld the brake pedal (accelerator and clutch in good positions). Yes the servo is very very close to the exhaust and when all in position the steering rack runs an eliptical course very close to the exhaust also. Thinking about it I also found it usefull to dry fit the whole lot and then tighten up complety as I found that things moved enough to be acceptable. Sometimes when you judge things by eye you think its not going to work.

[Big Jim]

just concentrate on the clutch & brake pedals, once you've got those right, you can cut & reweld the accelerator pedal in a Z shape to fit anywhere you want.

Yes I know that the brake pedal is longer than the others, but due to no servo now, I wanted the extra leverage.

 

This is a piccy of mine after fitting the Golf brake pedal pivot and modifying the pedal somewhat. works OK.

[Guest Charles B]

I don't use a brake servo, had no problem with the SVA and can lock all four wheels up with no problem. I would recommend leaving it off. I use two master cylinders, but that shouldn't make much difference to the pedal pressure required.

There is much more room with the servo missing, especiallly if you have the four into one exhaust.

[Guest Battery Bill]

Charles

What does it look like where your servo would have been (or yours Jim) Might be worth binning ours if we cannot close the bonnet.

[Guest Charles B]

Here's a picture of mine, though if Jim has used the Ford master cylinder with the servo removed, a picture of his might be more helpful. I cut and altered my pedals quite a bit as I shifted the whole pivot point back quite a bit.

[Bob Tucker]

If you want to remove the servo & keep the Ford pedal & master cylinder you

need a different (longer?) push rod.

Tiger Racing can supply one.

Bob.