Efi Injectors Not Firing

[spg]

Well it stopped raining long enough to get the car out today.

 

Had trouble starting it, When it did start the tick over was up and down for a couple of mins. Took it out for about an hour on the way home it stared to stutter abit and the tickover went hairwire virtual stall to 2000 rpm. Got home ok parked up to open the garage door and the engine died and refused to start. Had a quick look round nothing looked wrong good spark, live to the injectors OK, cant check the return from them to the ecu till i get a decent meter from work. Just cant hear them ticking and the plugs are dry. Fuel pump runs for a few second when the igntion is turned on as expected so im assuming the ECU's getting power.

I used the ford loom for all the igntion EFI and chrging circuits, only using the VG loom for lights.

 

I'm not very clued up on workings of this new fangeld EFI stuff (more of a SU's and points bloke) has anyone got hints on the best place to start looking or common faults that cause this.

 

Cheers

 

Steve

 

PS

Yes there is petrol in it

[Jez Morton]

Sounds like somethings come loose, check the bolt on the ECU connector isnt loose and your earths are good. I think the pump is pressure controlled internally and switches on via ignition so will run and stop without the ECU.

 

Jez

[spg]

Cheers Jez

 

The ECU connectors in tight, I'll give it a good going over tomorrow night.

 

Steve

[Guest chris brown]

Well it stopped raining long enough to get the car out today.

 

Had trouble starting it, When it did start the tick over was up and down for a couple of mins. Took it out for about an hour on the way home it stared to stutter abit and the tickover went hairwire virtual stall to 2000 rpm. Got home ok parked up to open the garage door and the engine died and refused to start. Had a quick look round nothing looked wrong good spark, live to the injectors OK, cant check the return from them to the ecu till i get a decent meter from work. Just cant hear them ticking and the plugs are dry. Fuel pump runs for a few second when the igntion is turned on as expected so im assuming the ECU's getting power.

I used the ford loom for all the igntion EFI and chrging circuits, only using the VG loom for lights.

 

I'm not very clued up on workings of this new fangeld EFI stuff (more of a SU's and points bloke) has anyone got hints on the best place to start looking or common faults that cause this.

 

Cheers

 

Steve

 

PS

Yes there is petrol in it

Common problem with the L Jetronic. It's the air idle control valve sticking and is also an easy fix. First remove it (two small bolts and one plug) and then wash it out using carb cleaner or brake and clutch cleaner paying particular attention to the operating rod of the valve as it is crud build up on this rod that causes the valve to operate in large steps so as to overshoot each time it moves. Once clean just apply a small drop of light oil on the shaft (NOT WD40 as it isn’t oil and dries leaving a sticky film just what you don’t want). Whilst cleaning the valve unit it's not a bad idea to clean the feed holes in the throttle body as well. Now reassemble and it should be good for about 25 - 30k

[spg]

Spent most of yesterday checking out the wiring with an AVO no faults found, Changed the idle valve throttle sensor and manifold sub loom (cheers Keith). All the power and earths are as they should be and the rest have continuity.

So its starting to look like the ECU, Has any local to me have a spare to try / buy .

 

Cheers

Steve.

[Derek]

Looks like we are converging on the same problem.

 

Steve just sent me this

 

found this

 

ECU Testing

23A Church Street

Eastwood

Nottingham

NG16 3HP (Road Map)

Tel: 01773 535638

 

weblink

 

Bit of a way from you but they will test ECU's off the car.

[spg]

Looks like we are converging on the same problem.

 

Steve just sent me this

 

found this

 

ECU Testing

23A Church Street

Eastwood

Nottingham

NG16 3HP (Road Map)

Tel: 01773 535638

 

weblink

 

Bit of a way from you but they will test ECU's off the car.

 

Thanks Derek

Think I've ruled out the ECU the bloody thing started and ran sweet as a nut.

 

So while it was running I started to check the connections by wiggling them found the engine started to splutter when I moved the wires for the injectors, Thought I'd tracked it down to a broken wire on the ECU loom. So I cut down the loom back and the problem persisted, looks like its the connector it's self

 

Anyone know if it#s possible to get replacements

 

Steve

[spg]

Got hold of the connectors no problem from premier wiring

 

http://www.premierwiring.co.uk/index.php?m...3392767901-3830

 

Running nice and smooth now

 

Explains why the wiring checked out OK with the AVO

 

However one more question for the moment, It's still running rich. I know that there an idle adjustment on the airflow meter but which way do you turn it to lean it down. And is it possible to adjust thought the rest of the range, using the throtle sensor maybe ?

 

OK it was two

 

Cheers

 

Steve

[Guest Alan_builder]

Got hold of the connectors no problem from premier wiring

 

http://www.premierwiring.co.uk/index.php?m...3392767901-3830

 

Running nice and smooth now

 

Explains why the wiring checked out OK with the AVO

 

However one more question for the moment, It's still running rich. I know that there an idle adjustment on the airflow meter but which way do you turn it to lean it down. And is it possible to adjust thought the rest of the range, using the throtle sensor maybe ?

 

OK it was two

 

Cheers

 

Steve

 

Hi Steve,

 

Nope, No and don't

 

If you adjust that screw it don't do a thing up to the point you get to point the servo can't cope and hunting starts. The electronics set the engine speed and the throttle bypass automatically adjusts to that speed. Set it too slow or fast by that screw and it hunts. This is not a mixture screw.

 

The spring rate in the Mass Airflow meter needs adjusting - this is a factory (Bosch)(not garage) setting.

 

To weaken the mixture you would need to add air after after the Air Flow meter, but why do this? You get more power if it is rich and what causes it to be rich anyway? What are your emissions like?

 

Mine is so low it would pass the current regs.