Unleaded Additive

[the_gambler]

Hi, I'm running a 2L pinto, which to the best of my knowledge ( limited ) has not been converted to unleaded. On ebay I see a company selling what looks like 8 metal beads in a net bag, that replaces any liquid additive. This is suppose to last 100,000 miles. It seems too good to be true, has anyone used this or know anything about it. Before I part with my hard earned cash, any feedback would be much appreciated. Thanks.

[Guest chris brown]

Hi, I'm running a 2L pinto, which to the best of my knowledge ( limited ) has not been converted to unleaded. On ebay I see a company selling what looks like 8 metal beads in a net bag, that replaces any liquid additive. This is suppose to last 100,000 miles. It seems too good to be true, has anyone used this or know anything about it. Before I part with my hard earned cash, any feedback would be much appreciated. Thanks.

If it seems too good to be true then it most likely is and in this case almost certainly is. If you want to use additive then there are several different ones around (so many cc's per 10 litres) but once you start using one type don’t switch to a different one.

[miikae]

I use Castrol Valvemaster Plus in my vintage bikes and also used it in my old Porsche for many years with no problems .

 

Mike

[Snapperpaul]

8 metal beads in a net bag

 

As far as i know these products have been variously tested by magazines over the years and have been shown to be Quack medicine for cars another product is the magnets you put round the fuel pipe that gives at least 30% better power/consumption etc.

 

The problem with these products is that you will have to use them under laboratory conditions to prove them wrong, hence no money back when your exhaust valve seats regress.

 

I intend to use proven products such as the one miikea uses or Millars et al

[Guest Tim Norman]

I used Valvemaster with the octane booster in Bob and that worked fine. Stank when the bottle leaked a bit though.

[miikae]

The only time i forgot to add Valvmaster was on a run up to Newcastle in my old Porsche got half way and the pinking frightened the life out of me when i put my foot down on the A1 , so a lesson learnt here and i never forgot again or had any valve trouble thankfully .

 

If i remember correctly years ago when i first looked into petrol additives Millars had very good reports but Castrol was easier to come by at the time at local motor factors , so i stuck with Castrol Valvemaster as better the devil you know and all that.

 

 

Mike

[Guest Tim Norman]

And it is dead easy to measure out

[ragey]

Ther is a company called broquet people have told me it is good but I have not tied it

http://www.broquet.co.uk/

 

Paul

[the_gambler]

Hi all, Thanks for the advice, I think I will play safe and stick to the liquid additives, and save myself £30 to boot. Without stripping the engine, is there any other way to know if its been converted to run on unleaded. I have been on a couple of long runs ( 100 miles + ) with no additive, but no sign of 'pinking'. If it has been converted and I put in an additive what will the effect be? Thanks

[miikae]

My pinking problem was due to low octaine unleaded fuel being used without altering the timeing , this was due to not being able to get hold of leaded 4 star , but i would suggest that you use the additive if you are not sure about your valves haveing hardened seats .

You are more than likely not to notice any difference , but your mind will be at ease valve seat wise.

 

Mike

[Guest salty_monk]

Valvemaster is the easiest to work with & the cheapest to buy.... You can buy it in bulk direct if you want it even cheaper. I've used it in a few cars.

[Guest fozzy2007]

Ok! so as far as i am aware, my pinto does not have hardened valve seats (might, might not!). what kinda damage will normal unleaded do over time. been running like this for over a year now with no notiable problems bar a little smoke and oil for a few seconds on startup. i get very little, if any, smoke out on the roads. But im pretty sure that all pretty much normal for a 25 year old engine. Is there any other major or non major damage i could be doing without lead in my fuel.

 

Sorry to jack your thread

 

Thanks

 

Fozzy

[Guest Bob Green]

On ebay I see a company selling what looks like 8 metal beads in a net bag, that replaces any liquid additive. This is suppose to last 100,000 miles. It seems too good to be true,

 

 

Strap a dead chicken to your fuel tank. It has the same effect!

[Guest Duncan Venn]

Fuel cat beads certainly had no apparent effect in my fuel - my engine has the symptoms of valve seat recession after about 10k miles of unleaded use. I'd go with the dead chicken next time!

[Snapperpaul]

Only way to test valve seat regression is to keep measuring the follower to cam lobe gap, over time this will get less so you will be forever adjusting the gap until you have no more adjustment.

You will also loose a lot of valve lift as the geometry changes.

Many problems with this but in the real world the more likely problem will be the exhaust valve seat pitting and not making a good seal thus loosing compression.

As long as you are aware of the problem and check for faults you can run until a problem arises or for the sake of a few quid add some valve lubricant while you source an unleaded head.