miikae

If you are using the Ford sender unit you can mod it as i did by fitting the original petrol tank boss from a ford tank, cut it out of the tank and bolt inplace, your sender will just screw in as it was intended to. info & pic in my garage. HTH

You have not by any chance got any braided fuel hose's have you, as there has been some substandard internal rubber hose fitted that is not compatible with unleaded fuel, this problem caught me out and i found it just before going for a drive, i was very lucky. HTH

I would check your fuel lines first, to make sure you at least have fuel getting through, i had this and it was a non wented fuel cap that caused it. Fuel line rubber pipes perishing and collapsing can do the same and preventing fuel getting through. HTH

I had this problem with my speedo sender, i put it down to the diff flex/movement as this caused the Prop magnets being hit, a good solution is to get hold of the gearbox sender adapter from Burton Power, (not cheap though) but should sort out this problem. I got one a while back but as yet not got around to fitting it, It may well be a tight fit on some cars with a narrow tunnel. P.S If car driven like a grandad you should not have this problem, I'm a grandad and drive mine as if i am being chassed by the Grim Reeper!

I ended up with Piper trumpets and then obtained a pack of stainless mesh samples,chose the size i thought would be the best and then made domed filters, I have tried K&N and Piper socks, but i found them too restrictive, the socks i found would posible have been ok if they werent so flexable ie had a metal frame inside to stop the foam from getting sucked towards the trumpets. The DCOE 40s carbs work well and stay intune mixture wise now.

There are 4 on ebay at the moment if that helps. 2 are buy it now items.

I got it of ebay i think, its been quite a while now since i bought one. One 10mm just like this ebay Item number: 350524076202

I fitted a non return valve so that it could still act as a breather just incase i turned it over:)

Best of Luck Al although you should not need any seeing as the GBS boys are on the job. Many more big smile to follow this year then.

Thats what i ended up doing.

Seeing as its quite cold the auto choke may not be working correctly and thus allowing the engine to flood, take the plugs out dry them off, warm them a bit and try again, test for a spark at the plugs before putting them back. Fingers crossed you get it started.

Oh yes i had to heat the ends up a few times to soften the ends so i could finish drilling them , cost me a couple of drill's though, tapping was no problem, There was much more info in my garage write up but it looks like most of it got lost when web site was updated.

I did my tie bars by moding the ARB, the center section of the ARB was flattened at the ends and then secured where the original rubber mounts where fitted as a strenthening bar, there are a couple of pics i my garage plus info on rose joint size i used.

Just what i was thinking as the 2B is quite a big beatie in comparison.

I'm still using a heavy weight lined one i bought off ebay some 5 yrs + ago and it is only now starting to crackup in places due to sunlight, kept in place with 2 very long bungie cords i made up to rap around to prevent the high winds blowing it away. I bought one of those £30 ones a couple of months ago for my MX5 which i thought would be the same but alas no, as it is only half the weight of the old one i have, certainly not as good as my old one.

LMA Performance do a remote kit a LMA109/4 i fitted one a couple of years ago with no problems, just scroll down to the part number i quoted http://www.lmaperformance.com/products-guages.html HTH Mike

I modded my tank due to sealing problems plus snotties floating about by cutting the top out of a ford tank and fitting it on with bolts and a cork gasket, the sender unit then just fits as it was supposed to without leaks, it makes life much easier if you need to check out the sender etc in the future. Mike

Hi Phil, Have a look here http://westfield-world.com/svalights_rear.html all the info you should require is on here.

Duly signed, I have one exempt 1960 motor bike, just could do with an exempt car now. Mike

Fit a battery isolator switch and always take the key with you would seem like a good solution for you Mike

Oil pressure gauge first then an oil temp gauge if you consider you really need one. Mike

I would suggest that you try a jump start first to see if it will start, if it does your battery has a problem, if not then start looking deeper. I had this problem a few months back & a new battery sorted it out HTH. Mike

Have you checked your braided hoses as there have been some bad stuff about that is not compatible with modern fuels, as it softens up and can collapse if on the suction side of the fuel pump , if on the feed side it tends to leak and thus very dangerious. If your Facet pump has a filter fitted these can cause fuel starvation as many will tell you & have found out the hard way. A non vented fuel cap will give you about 5 mins or so of running before causing fuel starvation & only allowing low revs, i had this when i fitted a new fuel cap some time ago. Good Luck Mike P.S. also running twin DCOE 40s

I too used the Protex stainless ones instead of there standard chrome ones supplied in days gone by, plus i drilled them to take a R clip. Thanks Niduncan for reminding me where i got mine from as i have been racking my tired brain for that name. Mike

SVC do stainless ones if thats any help, i got a pair a while ago from them. Mike