Temperature Gauge Not Working

[Guest ih007]

So heres what i've done. Because i wanted the seperate clock look i was going to fit capri clocks but the wouldnt fit between the chassis rails. Instead of doing the sensible thing and putting the sierra ones back in, i've dismatled the capri clocks into bits, made up my own sub loom for them and positioned them in the dash to look like expensive clocks, finished off with silver bezels.

 

But, my temp'fuel gauges dont work at all. I've taken the connector off the block and put it to earth but still no response on the clock. I know the sender unit is matched to the clocks. I think this is something to do with my wiring as they are sort of wired together on the loom. How can i test the guage and has anyone any idea whats up?

[Guest Ianz]

Ih007

 

Go to the NW Hoodies web site,find the wiring diagram for capri clocks,trace

via the printed circuit the connections to the individual clocks and then you

should be able to find the pos/neg to each guage,then hopefully you should be

able to get a response from the guages

Also you will need a white top temp sender for guage to work,and the capri fuel guage will read about half full using sierra guage,different resistance.

 

Hope this helps .

Cheers Ian

[Guest ih007]

Thats exactly how i did it - hmmm perhaps i've missed something somewhere then.

[Guest TerryBarry]

Just a thought

Are you powering the gauges from the voltage controller on the instrument panel.

Have you checked the voltage on the "live" pin of the gauge

Terry

[Longboarder]

Both of these gauges are wired ignition live 12v to voltage regulator, regulated voltage to upper connector on the back of the gauge, lower connector to sensor and then to ground through variable resistance in the sensor.

 

Nigel

[IanS]

The first thing to check is that volts are getting to the regulator.

Then check that the output of the regulator (the wire going to both guages) has a steady 8 to 10 volts on it.

Also check that the regulator is grounded> It will not work without a referance point!

 

If you want to check the guages actually work connecting 12 volts to them will not kill anything but the guages will over read.

 

Ian

[Guest Ant]

check that the output of the regulator (the wire going to both guages) has a steady 8 to 10 volts on it

 

That's not necessarily true. It depends on the type of voltage regulator. The newer ones are all electronic and will have a steady output voltage. Older ones (definitely the smiths type found in mini's etc) are mechanical. They pass through the battery voltage some of the time, and no voltage at others, and the average over time is 10 volts. I was warned by the guy at speedy cables that I may not see anything which made sense on the output of my voltage regulator - especially if using a digital volt meter.

 

I'm not sure which type the Capri or Sierra ones are. Just something to watch out for.

 

Ant

[Longboarder]

This sort Ant. Seems to have a transwarp conducer, lobster and subspace emitter inside.

 

Nigel

[Guest Ant]

Yup, that sort should have a steady voltage output. I've never seen one quite like that though (as the actress said to the bishop!)

 

Ant

[IanS]

Absolute bog standard 5V regulator as made originally by Fairchild about 30 years ago and copied by everyone and thier rover since.

The fact that it is a 5V reg does not stop creative engineering from reseting it higher and i suspect that the diode does just this giveing a steady voltage in the range of 8 to 10 volts.

[Guest Ant]

It still counts as modern compared to some - especially the ones in mini's and the like with classic type Smiths gauges.

 

Ant

[Guest ih007]

Thanks for the diagram LB, its the same regulator as in the picture too. I think its wired up as the diagram, but somewhere along the way it branches off to feed the warning lights. I'll double check that diagram tonight and poke around with the multimeter and report back tomorrow.

[Guest ih007]

Ok, i've managed to get it to work, but i had to cheat. I couldnt get any volts on the output side of the regulator, and i tried two units, making sure it was earthed properly. However, i found a steady 8.5 volts at a solder blob near the terminal, so i cheated and i soldered a jump wire across which seems to have done the trick. Anyone see any immediate problems with this?

 

Now, the fuel gauge still has no response, it goes up when earthed, so i'm assuming the sender (from a sierra) isnt matched. Is there anyway to fiddle the gauge, because after all the trouble getting the sender to seal on the tank, its not coming out again!

[Guest ih007]

And this is how it looks all finished - budget seperate clocks!

[Guest MikeD318]

That looks really nice. I think I'll be doing somthing similar. Where did you get the bezels from?