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Can't Keep My Pinto Cool


Guest Ian Maycock

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Guest Ian Maycock

I cant keep my Pinto cool!

 

I have recently changed from a 1.6 to a 2.0 Pinto. i have used all the original parts from the 1.6 such as the water pump and thermostate housing. all the hoses are connected correctly. but, and here is the problem, where as before the engine ran at around 80 - 90c now it runs at around 110 - 115. when i turn the engine off i cant start it again until it cools down. Also when i have stopped the egine after it has got too hot i can hear the water boiling in the hose from the pump to the down draught carb. I have checked to make sure all the gallaries and pipes are clear of blockages and that the radiator is also free of blockages. the radiator is in the same place as it was with the previous engine.

 

can anybody shed any light as what the problem might be? i need to get out in the car while still have a summer, and in serious danger of not making Newark.

 

Iggy

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change the sender over from your 1.6 to the 2.0 and check what it reads. There were many different senders calibrated to different gauges.

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You are now running with 20% more power.

The original Cortina radiator is marginal at best, the original Coolmab was much more capable, the radiator sold by GBS is ad I have found out between the old coolman and the original Cortina,

I have just changed my GBS rad for a much bigger one and a Huge fan, but I should be running between 160 and 170bhp

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Guest Ian Maycock

the sender is one supplied by ETB with the gauges fitted last year.

 

the thermostate cuts in as the top hose gets warm at about 85c so thats ok.

 

it might be the head gasket. is it possible to fit them the wrong way round?

 

regaarding a different radiator i dont have the room for one thaat is bigger than the one thaat is alreaady fitted.

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Guest woolly
it might be the head gasket. is it possible to fit them the wrong way round?

 

think you can but the oil way is then blocked to the cam ???

as you say its making noises are you sure there is no air in it. all pipe work needs to be below the rad cap height, if you are not using a header tank

 

 

other things that can make it run hot are ign timing and a lean mixture

 

i think the original rad was for a 1600 and base 2.0 the bigger rad mentioned is thicker same fittings.

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Guest Ian Maycock

admittedly the rad cap is not the highes point so will try that. i will also look at the timing as this has only been set statically at the moment. i was hoping to get a few hundred miles done before i took it for a rolling road tune up. will look at the timing as well.

 

thanks

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