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Engine Wont Start! Help......please........


Guest Getting There

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Guest Getting There

Hi

 

Got a small problem that I just cant seem to get to the bottom of.

 

As well as the Zero I have an old mk 4 1.3 Escort and it wont start!

 

A week ago I changed the spark plugs and one broke in the hole, so removed it and helicoiled the hole, all worked fine, checked compression and it was there, put the remaining plugs in, leads on (checked order) and turned it over, but it wouldn't go?

 

So thinking I had got something dropped into the cylinder I took off the head, and there was nothing there, cleaned up and checked the valves etc, and put back together. I still have the same problem, the engine is turning over, it is slow but the engine is free (can turn by hand) when head was off, but will not fire just keppes popping back through the carb. I have checked the following:

 

Compression: All cylinders above 155 psi so should be fine.

Plugs: Had 2 sets now, and originals that worked fine.

Leads: All in correct order and double cheched.

Spark: Slightly weak but all there.

Fuel: Definately from the smell, but not enough for wet plugs.

 

Do you guys have any other suggestions? Only things I can think of are dead starter (was fine before plug change) or that the coil pack isn't giving a good enough spark. It doesn't even cough.

 

Any help or pointers much appreciated...

 

Thanks

 

Chris

 

PS The engine still spins over slowly when the plugs are out??

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The battery is sick.

 

The engine should turn over fairly quickly and the voltage at the battery should not drop too much. If it can't put out enough current to turn the engine over fairly quickly, then the voltage for the spark will be much weaker and will not be enough when in the engine.

 

You say you have a weak spark outside the engine. However, when under compression the spark has a much harder time to "spark" so you may not actually be getting one when inside the engine.

 

Try another battery or some GOOD jump leads and leave the battery to charge for 2 - 3 minutes before attempting to start it.

 

Simon.

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Guest Getting There

Simon

 

Thanks for that just tried it with the battery on and a multimeter. Batt volts are 13.2 then when turning over drop down to 12.4 v so should be fine, tried with the jump leads I have for the trucks and it is no different so hopefully the battery should be OK. But that leaves something else?

 

Thanks

 

Chris

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All all the connections looking sound?

 

Is this distributor driven? Take cap off and check rotor arm and inside of cap for tracking marks that could be shorting the spark to ground that way. Has the distributor vacuum advance come away? Is there signs of worn contact breaker points?

 

Is there a good spark from the coil? (Take off centre from distributor and check that for good spark. If so, suspect cap or rotor arm)

 

Simon.

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It does sound like the starter could be knackered, it should fly round without plugs in or with the head off.

So check the earth straps to the engine, remove it / them, clean it & refit it. (this could also cause the slow starter, so this is first job to check)

Until you get it to spin fast enough, anything else is a waste of time.

Once it spins OK, check the voltage marked on the coil, if it anything other than 12v, that will mean that there is a ballast resistor in one of the lines, these are prone to go knackered, I always dumped the 9v coil & ballast resistor and fitted a straight 12v instead.

With the escort engine, you shouldn't have messed up the ignition timing by removing the head, but it would be worth just confirming that you're on the correct compression stroke.

 

The readings that you give for when the starter is used make it sound like there's not enough power being used by the starter, I would have expected it to go down to around 10v on cranking to try to start.

 

I personally believe it's nothing more than a bad earth to the engine.

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Guest Getting There

Hi

 

I will try connecting a jump lead to the starter earth to the battery and see what happens, it just seems coinsidence that the change of plugs happened at the same time? The coil is an EDIS coil, one of the first and it has 12v to the middle pin, and the others are signals from ECU thingy, will check with a scope later, but will try the starter earth now... will report back soon.

 

Thanks for the help boys..

 

Chris

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Guest Getting There

Hello

 

Just checked the above, connected starter housing to the battery negative with a jump lead, and it made no difference. I have re checked the spark and it is exceptionally weak, so I have just parted with some funds for a new one and leads, and at the same time a starter for £58 for the lot so hopefully that should cure any possible problem.

 

Just one further question with regards to the Ford coil pack connections; the middle pin has 12.4v and the other 2 are to earth when the ignition is switched on; is this correct or could there be fault with the ECu thingy. I hope not because these are no longer availlable and cost more than the car is worth!

 

Just done a quick video at

 

Thanks

 

Chris

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Guest MarkB

One thing to remember, a car generally has a weaker spark on turnover to save power, with the plugs not wetting have you tried pouting a cap of fuel straight down the carbs

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Guest Getting There

Thanks for all the help and suggestions, put the video on and the more a watch it the more I am questioning the coil pack, so will try that when it arrives.

 

Thanks

 

Chris

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That engine is turning over quick enough to start, no problem with either battery or starter, it has to be on the ignition side. you should get an "Elephant killing spark" to start up, THEN they go weaker when it fired.

 

Check all connections,

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Guest sandy77uk

deffinatley getting enough fuel into the cylinders? problems with the carbs? could try a small amount of fuel straight into the trumpet or (and I hate to say this) spray some brake cleaner straight down the trumpet and try

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