Superspec Clutch Again

[Guest stevenkirk]

Now - I plan to get the engine/bearbox out at the end of the season - so far with the help on here I have found that I need to do the following -

 

1. Remove old clutch and install new Ford clutch with release bearing ( chuck Rover pressure plate in the bin and redrill

flywheel to fit Ford pressure plate and rebalance flywheel.

 

2. Sort out the spigot bronze bush - I spoke to Richard at GBS this afternoon and he recommends as the recess in the

crankshaft is too large for the Ford needle roller spigot bearing - get a sleeve machined to fit the roller

bearing into and this will solve the problem of having a bronze bush in it.

 

3. Lengthen the pivot point on the clutch release arm as it is too short and applies the pressure to the relase

bearing unevenly - this is part of the misalignment that he says there is.

 

4. Well some stud into place as it is only held on by three threads - Could someone enlighten me as to which stud and where?

 

5. Check then alignment of the engine and gearbox and ensure it is straight. ie. the input shaft is centred precisely to the

crankshaft.

 

Put the gearbox in for repairas I will assume it will have been buggered by the bad allignment etc. and will hopefully sort out the jumping out of fourth gear it intermittently has.

 

The car has the original Ford gearselector/linkages so I assume it will be a gearbox problem - Richard also said to install a quickshift as this is more precise.

 

Any useful input into this would be appreciated please as I want to get this sorted out once and for all then get round to changing the dash and rewiring it

[Redspec]

Hi Steven,

 

The stud that requires welding is one of the starter motor bolts, it screws into the adaptor plate, but it can not screw through due to the block, hence only a few threads.

There is a tube on the gear leaver remote that just sits over the top of a bolt head, I drilled a tapped the tube and bolt head and fitted an M4?? high tensile bolt to stop any movement, but the quick shift may sort this if it comes complete with the remote mount.

There have been a few posts about jumping out of gear, and I'm sure someone found the problem, but I can't remember what it was, I don't think it was down to alignment issues, more selector / retaining spring issues.

 

Steve

[Snapperpaul]

Rusty found that the original Richard Stewart remote was made with a couple of tubes that were zinc coated and the welds failed on one causing gear selection problems and jumping out of gear, the mounting of the remote was also suspect

[Guest stevenkirk]

This is the gear shift fitted to the kit car

Edited August 3, 2012 by steven

[Al Milton]

Steven,

That doesn't look the original Richard Stewart (RH) remote, that looks like the genuine Ford part.

The RH supplied one was a bit of a bodge, yours looks genuine.

For positive identification, there will either a Ford label or stamp on the sides.

 

The jumping out of 4th could be caused by the lever not being able to fully engage the gears because it is restricted by the tunnel top plate.

Enlarge the opening slightly around the position the gear lever is in when engaging 4th gear and see if this helps

 

Al

[Redspec]

Steven,

That doesn't look the original Richard Stewart (RH) remote, that looks like the genuine Ford part.

The RH supplied one was a bit of a bodge, yours looks genuine.

For positive identification, there will either a Ford label or stamp on the sides.

 

The jumping out of 4th could be caused by the lever not being able to fully engage the gears because it is restricted by the tunnel top plate.

Enlarge the opening slightly around the position the gear lever is in when engaging 4th gear and see if this helps

 

Al

 

+1

[Guest QuadraDave]

Hi Steve just looked at photo of your remote gear ghange and it looks like a ford one it looks very close to tube sections near fuel lines ( could be angle of camera ) so could be close to tube section in 4th gear if you want i could post robinhood bodge one and my quickshift one out for you to use and check if it still jumps out of gear if it doe,s you might have a problem with gear selector spring i told you about HTH Dave D

[Guest QuadraDave]

Hi Steven just read question 3 in your post about thrust bearing mis alignment the thrust bearing moves quite a bit horizontally ( ie left to right right to left ) so the clutch arm mounting bolt would have to be out a lot to cause a misalignment problem like i said on phone remove your starter motor and this gives you a really good veiw of whats going on if you get someone to press the clutch HTH Dave D

[Guest stevenkirk]

As sods law prevails QD - it hasn't jumped out of gear for the last hundred miles - so am wondering if the tinkering I did around the gear shift had anything to do with it - I have a RH bodge selector in the garage, the original owner threw it in the boot when he sold it to me - pity he didn't tell me about all the s**te that is wrong with the rest of it before I bought it - the engine cuts out for a split second when i go over any bumps - so am going to have to pull apart and inspect the engine wiring loom for a break/bad connection. For a join in the cooling system he used a piece of white pipe that is normally found under the kitchen sink and wasn't heat resistant - so deformed and leaked all over the alternator (

Was thinking of installiing a quick-shift when the engine is out - pity about the £160 cost though from GBS.