Pinto Oil Spurting Out Of Filler!

[Shandylegs]

Only using a catch tank because I was trying to sort the oil spurting out of the filler!!

 

Sorry, I re-read through the threads and found that had been covered.

[Guest slimesub5]

This is the fluid coming out of filler and crankcase breather!!

Edited December 9, 2012 by slimesub5

[Guest mower man]

 

 

I think that's a good idea, not sure how much they are to buy?

 

Just put a bit more PTFE tape around cap, oil half way up dipstick, it doesn't pop out now, and dribbles a very small amount of oil at high revs, but the crankcase breather is blowing what looks like lots of steamy fumes!!! It is condensing into water doh! Or is this normal?

 

Now really confused, possibly head gasket?

Wouldn't go to buying a leak tester but with a bit of work a substitute can be put together you need 1 a spark plug break the porcelain and the side electrode offbraze ,weld a peice of 8mm pipe into the bottom of the plug to allow compressor to beconnected ,remove all spark plugs ,radiator cap oil filler cap turn engine by hand to place no1 piston at top dead center with both valves closed place in gear and apply hand brake firmly fit your home made adapter to no1 cyl and connect up air line apply a pressure a little at a time and listen and look for air escaping ,coolant being pushed out of rad ,h/gaskt 'air escaping via inlet or ex valve valve probs ,air blowing out of oil filler ,dipstick tube or breathers ring prob , this is definitive and does not lie . Repeat proccess on other cyls after positioning relevant piston at tdc . If its all of them you are in deep caca valves and h/gskt less so .20/30 psi is enough to indicate all faults .I hope this helps you ,i have presummed you have a compressor and access to welding eqpt good look regards mowerman

[Guest slimesub5]

Mowerman - you d man!

Great idea, will fab something up and give it a go. (And the noise won't annoy the neighbours!) will report back with findings.....

 

Will the FR33 cam make any difference to TDCgetting both valves closed?

 

 

 

Ps Mowerman, thanks for sending the photos and instructions re Tie-Bar mod, cheers!

[Longboarder]

To comment on the emulsion in the breather tube it looks much the same as mine when healthy.

With open breathers (no back pressure) you still severely pressurise the cam cover. Has to indicate a worn engine. I don't think you could get much gas up the exhaust valve guides with moderate wear. It is remotely possible you could have a head gasket leak into one of the oil drain holes and get some pressure into the 'crankcase' but once again it would have to be a big hole to cause your problems. You could have holed a piston either by valve or spark plug contact but the compression figures say no. So you are back to rings.

Leakdown test with the cam cover off is a good plan. You can listen with a length of tube stuck in your ear and placed strategically and watch for gas on top of the head (bubbles) or a rise in the water level in the cooling system. Manifolds off and the tube end in each port, the surrounding oil drain holes, through the neighbouring plug holes, through the crankcase breather hole. You should be able to tell where most of the pressure is leaking to. Then it's a hone and new rings.

How big is the breather in the filler. If I remember rightly its about 5mm at the most. Not enough for the state of your engine. A bigger vent with splash plate welded into the cam cover would probably help.

[Guest slimesub5]

Thanks Lonboarder appreciate you help, I'm thinking rings too!! The only bit on the engine I didn't check properly / replace! Looks like lesson learnt.

I have glued a bike inner tube valve to a cut down spark plug and will test tomorrow night......

[Guest mcramsay]

a friend of mine with a 2b Had exactly the same issues you are having now, compression of around 145 on each cylinder, and blowing the oil filler cap off. He spent ages playing around with the breather system, only to find the problem got a little better or had no change at all.

 

We didnt think it would be the rings as the engine was only Rebuilt 1000 miles previous, however sadly after eliminating everything, we found it was the rings. Basically who ever rebuilt the engine forgot to hone the bores. Meaning when the new rings were installed on the pistons, the bores were perfectley glazed so the rings never roughed up and sealed against the bore.

 

we took the pisons out, and fitted new rings, and bobs your uncle the car was back to having compression of around 190 PSI (was a heavily modified pinto and had been skimmed to within an inch of its life) and no more blowing past the rings causing the breather system to throw a wobbly.

[Guest mower man]

You may need more than glue! 25/30 psi is a min pressure, are you using a compessor ?. tdc oncomp/firing stroke both valves should be closed no matter what cam unless cam timing is way out , I think you will be pulling the engine down to atleast hone the bores and prob replace the rings ,procede slowly and get it right hth mower man ps treat your slf to member ship after christmas