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More Issues With The S3


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As you are by now well aware the engine swap after the overheating issue and the rear cracks have kept me off the road.

4 solid days over the bank holiday weekend have got me a little further forward but it's a struggle every step of the way.

Alternator bracket broken

Now fixed then I find the spare one.

Engine mount broken, buy expensive new ones which don't exactly fit, fettled and fitted.

Lambda probe boss plug was very stiff so I stripped it by using excessive force, had to have that tapped then I spent 2 days cleaning it back to polished stainless where it will be seen and wrapped the rest.

Fit new lightened flywheel with dowel to the newly rebuilt 2.1 then a clutch cover bolt snaps flush, I got that out but it took time.

Next issue today when cleaning up the ally RS2000 bell housing I found the pivot pin had exited the box and was nowhere to be seen plus the pivot face had been worn by the loose clutch arm.

I removed the bell housing, cleaned it, made the pivot point face flush, tapped it to take an M6 bolt, used a washer with a bolt hole that was slightly to small and tapped that to make a rattle free pivot

I have added a nylock to the rear.

Every bolt is being put back with locktight.

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Guest Gargoil

I'm sure some of those words are "naughty" words, Paul

Must try them out on the G.F later....

Joking aside, well done.

Giving up on something and buying new is the easy option.

Making the old stuff work is the better one.

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And today's issues are

Reverse light switch wires pulled out

Reverse light switch broke when hoisting gearbox

RS2000 bell housing and RS2000 sump misalignment due to crank scraper dropping one side of the sump 2mm

Magnet fell off propshaft (fixed)

Rear left wheel is free to move when handbrake is on

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This weekends progress and issues.

Putting the engine and gearbox in together was the best way as joining the 2 was a mission outside of the car, I wouldn't of been able to join them in the car.

Modified the mounts and got the engine and exhaust manifold together without fouling the steering column (just) or the exit hole in the side.

Fitting the heat shields was ok once I'd re covered them in heat mat. Alternator is on once I'd found the belt, then the oil cooler take off needs fitting, always difficult as I have swaged 5/8" industrial hose but 4 hours yesterday and came back today to re look at it, still no luck, an hour later I look at the old engine, a bit was gone from the redundant bolt boss near the oil filter and bingo, the new engine was fitted before the new pipes and thermostatic take off plate, angle grinder and some swearing and its fitted.

 

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More putting stuff back on tomorrow

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Took most of the day to strip, clean and rebuild carbs, some of the screw heads were made of cheese so a trip to screwfix for Allen head replacements. Carb cleaner is like glue fumes without the high, just the headache

 

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Guest 2b cruising

Hello mate.

Your living has to come first.

A bit by bit is better than getting into a bit of a downer.

I'm sure you will be out and about soon.

All the best with it.

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  • 1 month later...

Worked every weekend for the last 2 months finally ran it up and started to put things back on to find pot 4 not firing, well intermittent fire but mainly not

Strobe showed ignition was all over the place, VR sensor attachment broken, buy new 1, fit and test

Still an issue so spray carb cleaner in turn down each carb, No.4 cam back in with spray so points to fuel delivery, take carbs off, strip down and clean every jet, double check, re fit, same issue, remove them again, swap back to older carbs, problem solved but fuel coming out of breather pipes, float valve issue, this was cured with lashings of carb cleaner left over night.

Big job returning to old carbs as pipes are different sizes and choke cable works in opposite directions, vac connection is different and so on.

But it runs ok now.

 

Turn attention to faulty carbs, I thought the only thing it could be now is internal fuel supply to float bowl on No.4 but there is fuel in the float bowl of suspect carb? Why does it not deliver?

Found my smoothing of port runners was slacking of due to chemical metal not fuel resistant and paint had left with the first of the carb cleaner so need to redo the inlet manifold with POR15 tank sealer, start to scrape off the expensive DanST manifold gasket and find a small washer edged under it close to manifold to head joint near carb No.4, enough to allow unmetered air into the cylinder, this was enough to confuse the Megajolt MAP sensor thus uneven idle and stop carb from delivering fuel.

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