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Bike Carbs


jaimo

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Guest 2b cruising

More air equals more fuel can be efficiently burnt. This will then result in greater bhp. However start to give it more fuel and not enough air, through over jetting and you will pay the price without any benefit. You could even cause piston burn out.

If too much air is given, you will soon damage your valves or head gear through running excessively hot at those points.

Look at similar threads on the forum to find what people have done to balance things out with different engines.

not having carried out this modification myself, I could not give you any figures for such things as choke sizes or jetting figures. I have only learnt through putting engines right after others have made mistake.

People that have recently carried the mod out and can give first hand info as to what they have done are Janis and Dino. Another man with lots of Pinto knowledge is Snapper Paul.

Perhaps the most important thing to consider would be the fact that bhp increases do not come cheap.

The more you want,, the quicker the formula for £ per horsepower increases. Ie a race tuned simple pinto engine could easily cost £10,000 or even more. A reasonably tuned Burton could be around, £4500 or more.

Consider all points on tuning before you find your wallet being rapidly emptied for not a massive amount of gain.

Also be aware that just because an engine has something like a Burton rocker cover on it, this does not always mean it is a Burton or whatever tuned engine.

HTH Ken.

Edited by 2b cruising
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Guest janis

U only nead carbs manifold and gasket..then u will need change throttle cable or modify end by putting wee fitting off ebay..my carbs come allready with choke cable..i bought them off pinto so they where jetted before..then i neede to make crank case breader wich is wery easy and if u have servo u will need connect the vacum pipe to your new manifold..tben your water pipe and i think thats it..very easy..ou and your fuel pipes too and fuel regulator wich was 20£ or u can use bike fuel pump..i left my pinto pump and use regulator..it was a big gain on my pinto but i had allready high lift cam...i have driven 4 other pinto kitcars all 4 was 32/36 carbs and two had high lift cams none of them was near as fast as mine and it was not even set up on rolling road yet..but then i dont know what has been done with it before i get it..

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Hiyaaaaa Dudes.....

 

 

Same as Janis, easy peasy, lemon squeezy...

  1. Manifold
  2. bike carbs
  3. regulator
  4. throttle cable
  5. tune up.

 

BIKE CARBS:

Depending on the engine type and CC - decides the jet sizes, example: 2.0 Pinto can get away with 1.5 - 1.6 jet sizes on the bike carbs.

These can easily be bought from DANST (http://www.danstengineering.co.uk/) or drilled out yourself.

 

MANIFOLD:

Type of manifold and vacuum air inlets are dependant on whether you have a brake servo or not.

example: I have an servo assisted gearbox and brakes, so needed to split the air and recalibrate gearbox.

 

The inlets are also useful for attaching a bike carb balancer and tuning the carbs to the main one (

)

You can also get a vacuum balance pipe from DANST and use this to connect to the dizzy for the vacuum advance or just cap them off after balancing the carbs.

A mistake I made when setting them up (too much air and the car ran like a dog). :crazy:

 

Fuel REGULATOR:

Required to restrict the flow to the carbs and stop flooding and having and engine bay that smells like a petrol station.

Setting this to the desired PSI, depends on the make model of bike carbs. Mine are CBR900RR and can be set to around 2 PSI.

Other infamous members TRACTOR advise purchasing the bike carbs and the associated bike pump to get the correct PSI and no leaks.

 

Throttle CABLE:

£2 for halford's bike cable and a couple of screw on nipples from eeeeeebay.

OR buy a dedicated cut to size throttle cable from the eeeeebay.

 

Tuneup (RR):

If they are untested carbs, wrong mixture or don't seem to be running correctly, then rolling road or ask on here for advice.

 

For me it was a worthwhile investment, as I was running a heavily restricted 1600 weber carb on a 2.0 Pinto (very frugal, but very slow).

It now runs much better, faster, but the weight and restriction of the torque converter on the gearbox is now the sticking point.

I'm also just running a bog standard 2.0 (no fancy cam or computer assisted jiggery pokery).

 

Download this and have a good read and the most expensive part of the journey will be your time and patience: http://www.classicfordmag.co.uk/files/2011/07/CLF166.bike_.pdf

 

Cheers Dino & Nikki

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