Sliding Pillocks

[Guest salty_monk]

Though I'd seperate this out from the Barkston posts before Mat gets the hump!!

 

Here's the pis of what it's doing & by my reckoning the offending pegs (which seem to be different from side to side! Look closely..)

 

So... this seems to happen only under really extreme cornering (I drive pretty hard on the road but nothing against Barkston & that is where this happened..)

 

Anyone know an easy cure (other than wishbone conversion).

 

Two things that spring to mind are to grind those pegs back & cover them with rubber caps or to fit bigger wheels with bigger internal radius (have been offered a set of 15"s...) but I don't know if the suspension would then just move further to the same effect...

 

 

 

[Dave R]

what size wheels have you got now?

i fitted 15 inch to mine because i could see the problem occuring

mind you mine aint on the road yet

was wondering about fitting a bigger bump stop to mine... something to stop the springs compressing any further before the hubs hit the wheels

think mark kingston has experience with this and has fitted extra's ?

[Guest salty_monk]

14's from RHE with the Tasteful "Turbo" centres... I wonder if the half inch gain from 15s would be enough to prevent it happening (I guess it would certainly allow more extreme cornering before it did happen..) or if there is a better way...

[Dave R]

1/2 inch more would certainly be better fnar fnar

i have most of the ford bumpstop in mine, was thinking of putting somthing solidish in top maybe a bit of plastic gas pipe or something so it actually does something. at the moment the car would be ploughin the road before that did anything

[Guest chris brown]

There is a set of 15s in the for sale section with rubber dont know what yours are but the robinhood 15s have 1 inch more offset than standard ford sierra ones which would help (until you convert to wishbones)

[Guest salty_monk]

The 15's I've been offered are cheaper, nicer & have a peugeot or FWD Ford offset I think, which is wider than the standard Sierra (think that's what the RH ones are but I'm no expert...)

I have at least half inch of spacer on the front at the moment & room on the studs to put a bit extra in if I need to anyway so I guess the change to bigger wheels & extra spacer could be my best & cheapest option for now.. (unless there is some way to add a "bump stop" into the system as stated above...

[ibrooks]

The Puregrot offset is the same as the RWD Ford. The Sierra got (bizarrely) the FWD offset. The RHE supplied alloys I beleive were the RWD offset.

 

If you've got these already and a spacer as well then I'd be very wary of adding even more spacing. Just imagine how much further you're hanging the weight out from the bearing's designed placing (OK with a much lighter car but we all know the one about a long enough lever moving the world). Also you're changing the geometry and the handling/steering may (will?) suffer. Some people have modified the Pillocks by having the shafts drilled and tapped so that a high tensile bolt can be screwed in from the bottom - this would only leave a bolt head sticking out below the plate.

 

I'd personally go for the bigger diameter wheels and look to convert ASAP.

 

Iain

[Guest john]

Those 9mm nuts look like the ones taken from the macstruts, they are really too long and making your problem worse. Swap them for nylocks if you can get them ( odd size ) and put plastic nut covers over them too, it will lessen the damage when contact is made. I have 15 inch fox alloys, ( peugeot offset ) and have only hit the rim once, when i had high tyre pressure and hit a pothole.

Now running at 16 psi.

I would also agree with the tap it and bolt idea, might do that if I ever fancy dissassembling the pillocks yet again.

[Guest salty_monk]

I take it those nuts have no direct tension on them so I can take them off & swap them over pretty easily??

[Dave R]

no tension on them but for a supersonic job they realy want taking out and the end or the shaft drilling and tapping to something a bit bigger

they are a barstweard size too at the moment so think you will struggle to find anything else to fit

[Guest salty_monk]

But I do know a man that will tap them for me... Do I have to remove the whole unit to do this though??

[ibrooks]

Yep - the shaft has to come out so you'll need to completely dismantle the front suspension. If you can get hold of an old pair of shafts from somewhere then you can get them done and just swap in a day rather than having the car off the road whilst the work is done.

 

Anyone ditched the pillars and got the old ones kicking around spare? Or anyone building a Hood and don't need the McPherson struts from the Sierra?

 

Iain

[Bob Tucker]

Dan,

I think I may have dumped all the old pillar stuff when I cut it off,

but I'll check again tomorrow & let you know.

Bob.

[Guest salty_monk]

No worries... not sure I can be arsed to take it apart in any case..! Will have a go if I get a chance though so appreciate you having a look!

 

Here's how I see things long term....

 

I have a reasonably well sorted sliding pillar car (I'm sure nobody will disagree that for the bloke with the worst suspension on the day it wasn't slow.. although I didn't reach take off... (sorry Dave!!) )

 

If I'm going to make it handle better I'll also want it to go faster, if I'm going to replace the suspension & the engine what is there left... you get my point..!!

 

I will keep tweaking but ultimately if I want it to handle dramatically better & go faster then I'll build or buy a Vauxhall powered / Cossie or Bike engined wishbone or similar....

[Dave R]

had another look at mine today

took the spring off and slid the hub up the chrome shaft till the wheel (15 inch) rubbed

on mine that takes about 4 1/4 inches of travel

the bump stops the video tells you to fit are never gonna stop any thing cos they aint long enough

i amthinkin of fitting something on the shaft to allow the bumpstop to do its job

was considering either a piece os tell tube about 1 1/2 diameter with a washer welded in each end to centralise it and give the bump stop something to hit

cut to length so that the bumpstop starts working at maybe 3 1/2 inches of travel

 

any comments?