R H Fuel Tank

[nicko]

Hi all, can anyone give me some advice on connecting fuel lines to the R H stainless tank. I'm new on here, with ownership of my 2B heading into it's sixth week.

[Mitch]

Hi Nick

 

welcome to the fold,

 

The sierra sender should have two connectors on the top, one line to carb and the other should be return to tank, you will have to lengthen the feed pipe to reach the bottom of the tank to make full use of capacity

of the tank.

 

HTH

Mitch

[Guest chris brown]

Nick I see from your profile you have a 2.0I injection. If you are using the EFI unit then ideally the output from the tank should be out of the bottom of the tank otherwise you will have to fit an internal lift pump as fitted to VW and Rover 200/400 to name but two

Apologies to those who have seen this grotty photo before but it shows what I mean

[nicko]

Thanks for the advice so far. My donor tank was rotten, but had 2 (I think) little pipes fitted to the left side. 1 for the feed, and 1 for the return. I was hoping to fit a similar system, but to an external swirl pot. My main problem is how to connect these 2 pipes, and what to use. I presume I need to things in this order:- Fuel tank, filter, swirl pot, fuel pump, then feed to front of car. Any more help would be gratefully received.

[Guest Phil Slater]

This my solution. The text is cobbled together from a thread I started long ago in my build!!!

 

 

Rather than drilling holes in the RH tank to fit inlet and outlet pipes, I wondered if a simpler option was to use/adapt the sender unit from a carb engined tank, with a solid state pump attached to the outlet pipe, and use this to feed the surge tank which will in turn feed the injection pump by gravity and so on till it comes back the tank.

 

I took the plunge and got a carb sender from the local scrappy and set to work adapting it.

 

I discovered the "electrics" were different than those on the sender from my 2 litre EFi but the actual metal work holding the electrics to the outlet pipe was exactly the same. So, it was relatively easy to swap them.

There are more wires on the EFi sender than the carb one so I had to drill out the carb sender top to take the loom connector, a bit of araldite sealed it in place.

 

I then decided the return pipe on the carb sender might be too small in diameter, (I'm not sure now if this would be a problem at all) so decided to swap it for some 8mm outside diameter tubing left over from the EFi sender ( it used just to hold the sender electrics in place, not for the transfer of petrol). The pipes are basically soldered into the sender top but I had to use a mini gas torch to get the solder to melt cos of all the surrounding metal work absorbing heat from soldering iron. Having drilled out the hole to take the larger bore pipe and starting to solder the new pipe in I came to realise I should have done this before fitting the electrics as plastic melts when expose to high temperatures. Doh!!!! Anyway no terminal harm done. (There may be a pun in there!!??!!?? )

 

The only other thing necessary to do was use a bit of nylon fuel pipe with a bend in it to extend and change the direction of the carb pickup pipe so it will draw from the lowest side/corner of my RH tank. It got the original in-tank filter on the end of it.

 

My car is not yet on the road but is running and the pipe work seems to be working fine.

 

Me thinks your build order is fine except, and depending upon where you site your swirl pot, you will need a lifter pump somewhere between the tank and the pot Mine lifts from the tank through an inline filter into my swirl pot.

 

 

HTH

 

Phil Slater

[nicko]

Thanks Phil, this info I'm sure will be invaluable. I'd pondered on the idea of getting a carb model's sender and going that route. Now I know you've got it to work, I'll probably do the same.

 

Thanks again