Damper Bolts

[Guest salty_monk]

Do they have to be high tensile & do they need a shoulder or smooth bit on them for the shock to run on?? My thoughts are yes on both counts but looking at Drew's this doesn't seem to be the case....

 

Cheers!

[Mitch]

Hi Drew

 

Any bolts that are under stress, i would use HT, as for the shank, same again you dont want the thread damaging the bush in the damper,and should be quite a nice smooth fit

 

HTH

Mitch

[Guest salty_monk]

They're not under tensile load though, they're under shear if anything.. I'd rather have a bolt shear than it pull the brackets off the chassis.

Smooth shoulder bolts certainly make sense though (if I can find them with the right length shoulder..)

[Guest rizla]

fg langs of grays do these bolts dan,ask bob tucker he knows where they are i sent him there to get some stuff for his car

[Bob Tucker]

Dan,

I'm off to wildest Essex this PM.

If you let me know exactly what you want, I could pick it up.

Buzz my mobile.

Bob.

 

PS Rizla, I'm talking to MNR today.....

My Vauxhall setup would make a 550 kg VortX whizz much faster

than a 700kg 2B wouldnt it? Watch this space.....

[Guest rizla]

ooh it would indeed

[Guest chris brown]

Watch this space.....

Turncoat

[Guest rizla]

profesional,i think you mean.........bet it wont be a mans color like yellow

[Guest salty_monk]

 

Dampers are now on... suspension is much stiffer & it's snowing!! :boohoo:

[geoff shep]

I don't think there should be any turning around the bolts should there? They should be done up tight (with the car settled at its normal height and weight - so leave them slack until everything's in) holding the centre bush tube firm. Any movement as the damper goes in and out (there should not be much rotational movement) is provided by the rubber. So presumably it doesn't matter then whether the bolts are threaded or shouldered.

 

PS - learnt from being ridiculed in fixfirm - the 'shouldered' ones are bolts and the totally threaded ones are set screws.