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If it doesn't survive then fix it or bin it. Rather have it break down on the RR than in the dark when it's raining on a blind bend. On my instructions mine was tuned not for ultimate power but for driveability and it made it a dream to drive, lovely and torquey but it still goes like a missile if you need it to. Looks a bit tatty but all the money has been spent under the bonnet.

£350? Christ you're better bringing it up to Steve Walford in Birmingham to tune including a hotel overnight haha. Recently cost me £100 for an evening session - 4 hours roughly? And yes, it made a world of difference. I cannot recommend a good tune enough. Like I said, its gone from hard work to manage the engine and driving to literally smooth and easy allowing me to enjoy the day at Curborough. Yes the rolling road is tough on the car, but its no different to you thrashing it around on the road or a track. I'd rather it highlighted problems on the RR than the side of the road - I can 1000000% stand by that statement If it doesn't survive you fix it and move on. These aren't mass produced tin tops, they're for us to break, repair and improve. The RR will change your driving experience judging by what you've said about the current tune. All the bits you've replaced can only work as well as they can provided they are doing their job at the right time - something a tune will ensure.

Once we knew where the canopy needed to be attached to the main roof, we could mark off the roof for trimming. The ensure we had a strong, waterproof join, the roof material was folded back on itself and we added some diamond shaped material reinforcements where the pins on the frame go through. The holes had eyelets rivetted into them as well so there wouldn’t be any chance of the awning tearing. The canopy could then be sewn to roof. The roof went on top with the canopy underneath to reduce the chance of water running off the roof and in to the joint. The awning was refitted to the caravan and we marked out on the corners where the side surround and the end surround panels needed to be cut, folded over and sewn together. We started by pulling the side panel tight around the frame and marking where the corner poles came to before repeating with the end panels. We wanted the join to run down the pole and we were also aiming to get it as neat as possible. We can adjust the position of the cornet poles and the size of the frame to pull things tight but although we had made the end panels flat, when there are fitted, they actually curve around up on to the roof, so the marking out proved to much more difficult than we had expected. This is the front corner and you can see where the material in the bottom half has been trimmed back ready to sew together. At the top, we still need to mark out the angled cut where the end panel will join up to the canopy. At ground level the grey PVC skirt is visible that tucks inside the awning and goes under the groundsheet. We wanted the top of the skirt to be the same level all around and we had to shorten the side panel to raise the skirt. This was additional work but at least we were removing material rather than having to add it on. Here the front top corner has been joined to the canopy and we have cut away the excess material from the back of the awing ready to fit the rear side panel. Here’s the final panel fitted. There are no guy ropes pulling the material tight and the bottom isn’t pegged down but that’s pretty much it. Just visible inside is the groundsheet. We made this out of offcuts of the waterproof roof material and as well as covering the floor, it extends vertically up to close off the area underneath the side of the caravan. It has the same edging on it as the main awning and slides into a plastic awning rail that is rivetted to the bottom of the caravan side panel.