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kevin the chicken

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kevin the chicken last won the day on June 10 2019

kevin the chicken had the most liked content!

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About kevin the chicken

  • Rank
    Wheely good builder!
  • Birthday 04/26/1961

Previous Fields

  • Car type
    16v vauxhall series 7, Sylva Leader with Pinto
  • Full name
    kevin john carpenter

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Chatteris, Cambridgeshire
  • Interests
    Cars, tractors, fishing, metal detecting, football, home brewing.

Recent Profile Visitors

15,416 profile views
  1. CTEK. Used on all cambridgeshire fire and rescue service front line vehicles for years. Not cheap though
  2. I thought we probably still hadn't got rid of our problem, after all it makes sense that the two I had caught were a breeding pair. I checked the traps this morning and one was upside down with the tail visible, so I said to my wife just the one in here but when I picked it up there were two in it!! Both juveniles but I have never done or seen that before. I agree traps are the best solution, the metal ones do work but wooden ones are best as you can bend the wire that holds the spring to adjust sensitivity. Mine go off half the time before they are in position but if they go off in the night
  3. They are destructive little buggers. Got to be up through the engine compartment then through a wiring harness hole or heater pipe. They can climb most surfaces and squeeze through a hole the size of a pencil. We have just caught a couple in the house, I did think we wouldn't have had the problem if we still had a cat as the dogs are uninterested. They would be interested in a cat though so that won't work. Best bait for traps is chocolate or toffee. I favour those chewy toffees that get l left in the selection box after xmas.
  4. I personally would cap it off at the tank if you can. You don't want a leak from an old pipe where you can't see it, if it's terminated at the tank it's one more variable removed from the equation. If you did need it at a later date then you would want to start with new pipework. Can't be too careful with petrol
  5. I run a 200 horse red top in a series 7 and the rad is situated behind the cross member with no problems. I did however block all the gaps around the rad so any air going in the nose cone has to go through it. I also put extra vents in the bonnet sides even though it has louvres in it so hot air can exit. I fitted a header tank to make filling without air pockets easy which works well
  6. Check thermostat is opening properly and not blocked with scale,,check none of the hoses have collapsed internally and back flush the radiator are three easy ones to start with. Generally make sure everything is clear and flowing ok before you start to worry about gasket failure
  7. I'd agree, mine looks as if it spends most of its time going through hedges. It has always looked that way since I started my ownership. The body has extra holes in it and scratches everywhere, way too far gone to benefit much from a polish. However the suspension is tight, the brakes are mustard and the engine pulls like nothing I've ever driven before. Plenty of money spent but all out of sight!
  8. Ctek is a good make. All Cambridgeshires fire appliances use a version of their charger. They are left on all the time they are in the bays and they don't just keep the engine batteries topped up, there are radios and a light portable pump with batteries too
  9. They look good. What I didn't mention is that by careful calculation and measurement it is possible to change wheel sizes and by selecting the correct size and profile of tyres still have the same rolling circumference so you don't effect ride height or speedometer calibration
  10. Should have the offset stamped on the inside ie et 82 or similar. You need pcd which is pitch circle diameter , spacing of studs you need to measure in mm if you don't know and you need width and size of wheel. This governs the tyre size and choice . Plenty of choice in 15 inch not much in 14 for instance . Width is probably stamped on inside too ie 6j
  11. I can hear mine when the ignition is on and it does make a lot of noise, perhaps it needs moving where it will vibrate less. It is mounted on rubber feet though. It has been like that for as long as I have owned the car and you can't hear itt or anything else for that matter once the engine is running. If it works then leave it alone, if it doesn't then replace it. You could always carry one as a spare, they don't take up a lot of room and are not extortionate in price
  12. Having a series 7 it won't be quite the same for me but this does give me a good idea on how to set about it. Good pictures and description. Now just got to find the time!
  13. I've never heard of that either. I have to stay with mine because my tester can't get in or out because of a bad hip but I'm quite happy to do that in case there is a problem which I can fix. Whatever next, no tests on red cars?
  14. I used silicone hose for mine, it's available in several different sizes and angles. If you can't find exactly what you need you could buy two pieces and cut them and use a metal joiner. Also available on ebay. I prefer silicone as it is a bit more supple and easier to work with. You can get in different colours too.
  15. They can be quite noisy but once the engine fires up there is no chance of hearing it on my car. I wired mine in through a switch on the dash so it wouldn't be running when I was messing around with the ignition system for one reason or another. There is also an inertia switch behind the dash which came from a Ford mondeo, complete with warning light as a good pothole can set it off and there's no shortage of those around here.
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