kevin the chicken

Possibly a dodgy solenoid although being part of the starter it should have been tested when the motor was reconditioned. My money would be on a loose lead to the starter or a poor engine earth

Sorry to hear about your recent troubles. Hopefully things will improve for you quickly

Whereabouts are we supposed to park. I've tried to find out when I've been before and nobody seems to have a clue

Got mine today, thanks

Kevin Carpenter , 132 high street chatteris, cambs PE16 6NN

My dyno man reduced my carbs to a pile of about 200 pieces in about 10 minutes, changed the chokes and drilled out the jets in about another 15 and then did a power run resulting in 180 odd hp. Not satisfied with that he took the distributor off and did something with the advance retard giving over 200 hp with a slightly restricted exhaust. This was on a redtop with twin 45s. All in about 90 minutes, just needs the right person. Didn't really want anyone learning on my time. He left school at 15 and considers himself uneducated. I consider him a genius

Put me down for this please. I shall bring my daughter as we always enjoy this show

The tiniest bit of muck or residue from old fuel can make a needle valve stick. It needs to go up and down with virtually no pressure from the float or your finger. Get a rebuild kit and change it if you are unsure if it is sticking or not. Personally I would just swap it for a new one and then you have ruled it out of the equation. Rebuild kits are not expensive

My first thought was coil breaking down when hot. Post what engine and ignition system you have.

Good work. I often solve problems by just walking away when stumped and having a good think about it before returning. Not always though! The Weber's need a low pressure but high flow rate, I think its only 2.5 to 3psi so it might be worth slotting a regulator into the system as close to the carbs as possible. Too much pressure and they will leak from every gasket!

Sorry no joy so far. Have you checked more than one plug to see if it smells of fuel after you have tried to start it, ie no1 and no4? It won't start on one carb. I had a needle valve stick and thought I was getting fuel to all four cylinders but actually it was only two. I'll ask my mate tonight and if he's interested we could pop over one evening,

I'll ask around. Got to book an mot tomorrow at my local garage they may know someone. I've got a mate who used to work a tuning firm but he has a race car that runs carbs. I'll text him, he might be able to help.

Where in cambs are you? I did use a chap near to me who is a genius but he has moved although still local but I can't get hold of him at the moment. No good talking it to a normal garage you need someone with a bit of old school knowledge

I can only add my condolences to the previous ones. Never met in person but he has been part of the club to a greater or lesser extent for a long time. Doesn't seem long since he posted on here, will be missed

One and the same on my car. No other numbers anywhere else

Mine is just 666, the number of the beast. Looks like it just been etched on not stamped.

How big a sail would a 3 ton land rover need? It is windy most of the time here in fenland but generally blowing the opposite direction to which I want to go and it's difficult to tack with a dyke either side of the road

Stay away from it. Once you make a mistake and there is a fire you can't stop it. After a an rtc in America one caught fire and was eventually extinguished using 1000 gallons of water. The makers technicians removed half of the batteries to make it safe and it was removed to a safe place where it caught fire again 18 hours later, was extinguished and then reignited 24 hours later. It's called thermal runaway and difficult to stop. I believe the German fire service dunk the whole car in a container of water and leave it there

Kilometres dear boy. I already have cameras but they won't tell me if someone starts tinkering with it in the middle of the night when I'm on holiday

Good morning everyone, hope you all survived storm Arwen unscathed. This post doesn't directly relate to my kit car but it may relevant to those of you that have more expensive vehicles. Being of an age where I am thinking about retirement I have treated myself to an ex-army Land Rover to use for fishing and general use when other vehicles are not available. It is not new, 1993 but it was completely rebuilt with new chassis, engine and gearbox amongst other bits in 2005 and apart from a quick bit of service at the 2013 G8 summit in Norther Ireland it has mostly been in storage since. Hence it has currently less than 10,000 K on the clock. Therefore it is worth a fair chunk of money and worth protecting properly. My plan is to have a visible deterrent such as a pedal lock, probably some sort of battery isolation switches (it has four batteries) and a hidden tracker. I have sort of settled on a tracker but thought I would ask here to see if anyone can recommend one or tell me of any to avoid. I need one that is hard wired but with battery back up, that will tell me if the vehicle is being tampered with or moved when I am not there. The one I am looking at would be fitted, 24/7 monitored and have a lifetime monitoring service for around 600 quid. Most of the time the vehicle would be sitting in my garden behind gates with one or two cars blocking it in but I want to be sure that it is still there when we go on holiday. Looking forward to hearing your comments.

Yes definitely the best person to go to

My mot test station has the facility to weigh the whilst on the brake test rollers. He reckons mine was 840 with me in it half a tank but no spare. Series 7 but for sure some will heavier or lighter

Plenty of ducts too, the air has to get out as well. My bonnet has louvres in the top but I put some more in the side to try to make the exit area for air closer to the size of the entry area. I don't have a heater in my car but the transmission tunnel gets really warm on anything more than a short journey keeping me warm but also showing just how much heat there is to try to dissipate. Having said all that I have never boiled up yet. Some people have propped the rear of their bonnets up slightly to get rid of more heat. Are you sure that it really is an overheating problem rather than a gauge issue?

Noted . Kev has never said to me that his phone number is not to be given out though

As far as anybody can tell he is still in the March area. His name is Kev Randell and the last phone number I have for him is 07939 500569. He is an absolute genius as far as I am concerned with the rolling road. If you manage to get booked in with him you need to take cash so get an idea of what it will cost before you go. I took a newly installed replacement engine to him and he got it to give out about 180 horsepower. He took the distributor off and bent the stops to give more advance or retard, I forget which and found another 20 odd horsepower. I hear a lot of people budgeting 3 or 4 hundred quid for a rolling road session, mine was way less than this! Let me know if you get hold of him and how you get on.