Nigel Rogers

Steve,

Have you decided what you're doing with your exhaust yet?

Cheers

Nige

Hi,

it sounds like you may have a loom off a later car that didn't have a pinto engine. I've adapted my loom from a CVH powered car to a pinto engine, it just needs patience. I connected everything I required and got it all working before I cut out the miles of cable I didn't need. Adapting the engine loom is not too difficult, think about what you need for your present engine not what is there for the old engine,it makes it easier.

Cheers

Nige

Hi,

I looked at hiring a plasma cutter to cut up my Sierra shell, it turned out to be expensive and I don't think accuracy was the best. Aviation cutters are just that, only any good for sheet alloy and only then when you buy expensive one's.

I would suggest that a good "air nibbler" would be a better and cheaper option, a decent pair of "Gilbo's" wouldn't go amiss either.

Cheers

Nige

Hi,

I had a problem with my amplifier, try this thread, it might help you work out your problem.

Cheers

Nige

Hi Duncan,

Yep I am still using the pinto, it's had a minor rebuild, shortened sump and unleaded valve seats, seems in pretty good shape and sounds sweet enough. It was a brill bargain as it's a 205 block 2 litre. Checked, double checked , bores measured and remeasured . So it's a great big thankyou from me

Another thought while I am writing a post - On the 2B4/Sub K front suspension support arms (fixed upper wishbone thingy). Is it CV joint boots that are used to finish off next to the body panels?

Cheers

Nige

Steve,

or do I say Mr Chairman. Congratulations on your appointment .

Will you have time to finish that new engine and get it fitted ?

See you soon

Nige

Thanks for all your replies, it's always good to get some hoody solutions

Cheers

Nige

Hi All,

Please can anyone tell me what they have done to waterproof the back end of the sidepanels? I'm talking about the bit between the side panel and the back panel inboard of the rear wheel arch (if that makes sense ).

Cheers

Nige

Wish I'd gone for a all mild steel version though - much easier to form, cut, drill etc and less worry about stratching!

I did get a mild steel version and I seem to spend more time painting than building

A piece of angle iron bolted the full width of the car should sort your floor out, there are loads of pictures on the forum of different ways of tackling the problem, try a search on floor strengthening/handbrake bracket/seat mounting.

Cheers

Nige

end of roll off cuts of carbon fibre pre preg

In shelf life/the right spec/with paperwork, off cuts of pre preg will fetch good money!

Any ideas, needs to be relatively small?

Sell It

Thanks Nigel your guess was right! It works!

Cheers

Nige

ps Thanks for everyone's help with all my electrics questions, it's really appreciated. Now it's time to fit the body panels

Hi,

As my first alternator needed an external regulator and finding a regulator that was suitable proved near impossible, I got hold of a reconditioned volvo 340 unit for a friendly price from my local local motor factor

My problem is how to connect it up. It has one "post" which I presume connects to the battery and two spade connectors. One labelled L & the other B+. The ignition light illuminates when the wire is connected to either L or B+ , but it isn't going out when the engine is fired up. I think it might need a switched live, but I do't want to start connecting things to the alternator any old how and cause damage.

Does anyone know how it should be connected?

Many Thanks

Nige

Hi,

I can't find it now, but somewhere on this site there are pictures of a nosecone with an aluminium frame at the back, the frame was shaped to match the bonnet profile. The nose cone was fastened to the frame to pull it into shape and make the bonnet fit.

I think the pictures might be in the garage section.

Cheers

Nige

Hi,

I am tidying up my electrics and getting everything to work before I cover and tape up the wiring loom, but I am seem to have mislayed something from the wiper motor. Please can anyone tell me what is missing from the attached picture ? (sorry it's a bit blurred!)

Cheers

Nige

As for diode/regulator pack. I don’t know if any one will do but suspect it will, the only problem is getting one as my local Auto Electrician tells me he hasn’t seen one for years

After looking at a couple of alternatives and the amount of work involved to fit a different alternator, I thought I'd look round for a regulator pack to suit the LRA 523 alternator. I've quickly discovered this is not easy, when you haven't a clue what year vehicle your alternators from and haven't got the part number of the regulator pack you require.

Does anyone know the part number of the regulator?

Cheers

Nige

Gents,

Thanks so much for your posts. Chris, the alternator in the picture is the one I have. WIll any old regulator do?

Many Thanks

Nige

Hi,

Thanks for the responses. All I have achieved is blowing the 4 amp fuse . I am using a standard Sierra instrument cluster, with a Nippon? (like the Denso type one on the NW site) alternator. Because I have no clue what the alternator is actually off. I don't know if I have wired it up correctly (well I know I haven't wired it up correctly )

Although it's a four pin alternator, is it possible it should be wired up like the Rascal one ?

Many Thanks

Nige

Hi,

Common problem. The battery light is on with the engine running and the battery isn't charging. The alternator is virtually new, which makes me think the problem lies with how the battery light is wired up. Basically I have a wire (blue) that runs from the alternator to the instrument cluster. However, in the instrument cluster connection plug, there is a blue wire next to the alternator feed that is not connected to anything.

My question is where should this blue wire connect to?

I think the alternator isn't charging because the excitation circuit that I think is achieved via the battery light isn't complete. Am I on the right track?

Many Thanks

Nige

Thanks for the response Nigel

Joel, if you do end up needing an amplifier, I found this company link that seems to sell suitable units (keep scrolling down on the switches page!)

Many Thanks

Nige

Hi,

Returning to this post show's how slow my build is However, I am having no luck in trying to get a spark and I think my problem is with the amplifier (well I hope it is!)

I have got my engine cranking over and have oil px, I have 12v at the coil, but absolutely no spark. My amplifier is wired up as per Trev's instructions. Before I start going off and buying a new amplifier, does anyone have any idea's?

Many Thanks

Nige

I am in no way Bah Humbug, but I can see the point of this petition

Petition

Nige

Hi,

You both have PM

Many Thanks

Nige

Hi,

For once - yes I am, I'll only be there until about 1:30ish though.

Many Thanks

Nige

Hi,

Having sorted one or two problems with my starter circuit, I have now discovered that the starter from my CVH donor doesn't contact with the flywheel teeth .

If anyone has a pinto starter looking for a home, please let me know.

Many Thanks

Nige

Hi,

Well fitting a link fixed the problem However, there was a relay in the position (Auto Trans Relay XII) where Les's picture shows the link. I had cut the brown & white wires feeding one of the relay terminals, but I can't fathom out what the brown and white wire was for looking at the wiring diagram.

Anyway, I've hit another snag now. The starter (from a CVH) doesn't reach the flywheel teeth

Cheers

Nige