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Cheers, going to have a play tomorrow so hopefully i'll get it sorted.

Evening all I am running R1 carbs on a 2L blacktop with megajolt. I have had an issues ever since installing, these comprise of 1. Needing full choke to start when cold - albeit this is in summer 2. Stalling in the first 5ish minutes of start up if the accelerator is pressed. Does this sound familiar to anyone - i'm thinking of playing with the One question i had is i am using an R1 fuel pump and no regulator or fuel return - does this sound right. My understanding is that the R1 pump will already produce the right pressure so no regulator is needed? Reluctant to take it to a rolling road in case something is majorly wrong and its just a waste of time/cash - unless anyone knows a good person around the selby area. Any advice appriciated as always Thanks

Thanks both Not sure it is earthed to the tank as sits on a cork gasket and no other part touches the tank. I assume I can just earth the sender to the chassis, The other connector as the sender to the gauge. Thanks Simon

Thanks, what Ecu are you using? I have megajolt - would that work?

Hi all Sorry for reopening an old post, i'm in the process of making a few tweaks ahead of the spring and hoping the rhocar community can help my sanity! As such i'll apologies in advance for the basic posts i may add in the coming weeks. Here is a link to a rather rubbish drawing of my water set up. I think this is pretty much where it needs to be. The overflow from the rad currently just goes to the ground rather than a bottle and there is a pressure cap on the rad. https://www.dropbox.com/s/0ll0qb171bs2bbl/Photo%2012-03-2017%2C%2011%2013%2002.jpg?dl=0 Seemed to run ok last year, it has boiled when idling but i think that was more my fault for not switching the fan on early enough / lack of summer coolant. As such i plan to add a thermostat switch to turn the fan on automatically. I currently have the bottom thermostat sensor going to the gauge. The top sensor is doing nothing - is there anyway i can get this to control the fan? Failing that i'll but a thermo switch - is this best being screwed into the rad, or could i put it into a pipe (some are alloy as advised) so might form a tighter bond than tapping the plastic rad? Any thoughts appriciated Thanks Simon

Sorry been trying to add a photo - saying my quota is full used......so here is a link, fingers crossed it works https://www.dropbox.com/s/wsy1xdau7wtebyn/FS.JPG?dl=0

Hi all Just playing with my fuel sender unit as it stopped working last year after a change of dials. My question is on the wiring. To get it to report the right resistance for the dial I connect the light blue wire (pic attached) with the terminal on the far right. This then gives me a variable reading between 100 and 360. However can someone just clarify the wiring diagram please. Light blue to fuel gauge sender and earth the far right connector? Thanks Simon

Thanks Bob Not using the standard pedal box, using the zero one i think from GBS, albeit wish i had paid for a floor mounted one! As such the spring and ratchet mechanism is no more - i guess i can fashion something to ensure there is always a slight pressure on the clutch pedal at idle. A muffled bh puh is probably a good description, pretty sure it isnt the exhaust (although i hope i am wrong). - this now has a custom manifold etc.. I'll try to record the sound. Because of the heavily muffled sound i think it could be in the fuel tank but cant see why. I have the original pinto fuel sender into a 30l tank supplied by GBS. Originally this was connected to a pinto so had a fuel pipe and return pipe. Now i have an R1 pump fitted and the return pipe is capped at one end - albeit i plan to remove and cap at the tank as current this goes all the way to the engine bay.

Evening all Just doing a bit of tweaking over winter to iron out some small annoying issues A Rattle - the clutch release arm on my type 9 to blacktop rattles when the clutch is not depressed. A far as i can tell this is because there is too much play in the arm until the clutch adds tension. Whilst i have the engine out i'd like to fix this, any suggestions? A baffled backfire - When i turn off the car after getting the engine up to temperature it seems to create a weird baffled backfire (is the best way i can think to describe it) - i think this sounds as though it is coming from the fuel tank - is this possible, any ideas what else it could be / the cause? I'm worried something is going to blow up! Cheers for any help Simon

Evening all This is a bit of a delayed post but I just wanted to drop a thank you note on here for all the people who have given advice over the past few years to aid the build/rebuild of my 2b. All mot'd and back on the road, couldn't of done it without the advice on this forum! Thanks Simon

Thanks for the replies, sorry for the delayed respomse. Wiring diagram attached. The bit I think I'm struggling with is on plug b, and in the temp - gray. Cheers Simon

Hi Derek. It's a new one, MA85.

Hi all School boy question coming up so please excuse the basic nature of it.... Just bought a new acewell digital dash and most of the wiring is simple. However when connected and turned on it just flashed red and green at me - which leads me to believe i did something wrong. The piece i fudged was for the temp. It has two wires for the temp sensor and earth. There is then another wire labeled temp - which goes to a switch earth - i just earthed this permanently which i assume is giving me the issue. Can someone advise on how to make this switched - assume a relay but would be good to know what to connect where so i get it right second time round! Thanks Simon

In terms of wiring both gauges have power - connected to 12v, ground- to chassis, sender, to sensor ?? Fuel - uses standard Sierra sender that was original for the kit, as far as I can see/remember there is only one wire coming from the top by the fuel pipes - this should be the sensor? Temp - I was thinking that signal the zerec uses was too low and therefore needs upping to get a reading?

Evening, So think I'm set for the first mot in 10 years but have a couple of niggling issues - non of which I do t think would mean a fail but will no doubt cause me pain at some point. Both issues relate the the gauges, first off I bought some unknown ickneild dials ages ago, got them working with a pinto but no such luck with the zerec. Fuel- with the multimeter set to 200 the fuel gauge reads 1.6 ohms when 3/4 full, the dial when connected shoots to full, with a 100r potentiometer fitted shows wherever I like but doesn't vary when more fuels added. Any ideas? Is this a simple take of choosing a lower rated potentiometer? Temp, the one that worries me not having working now the dials and zerec sender don't match so I'd like a way of getting a broad reading without replacing both-is this possible? Multimeter Set to 200k reads 41.4 when cold, 15 after 5 mins of idling...standard zerec reading I imagine. The temp sensor doesn't move a dime throughout. Is there a simple ish solution? Thanks for any help

Cheers will give him a shout.

Morning Just looking for some opinion on what to do for the best. Picture below taken of my r1 carbs showing the space between them and the bonnet. I'm planning on finding a small ish filter like a piper cross px500 and cutting a hole in the bonnet. Ideally I wouldn't do this but assuming I need some cold air and not sure there is enough room to add an air box down to the nose Any advice/better options before in go about it. Cheers Simon

Evening all A nice easy one I hope, Just trying to connect my blacktop temp sensor to megajolt and temp gauge. Two sensors, the top I believe is for the ecu, bottom to the dash. Each have two wires, I assume a sensor and earth, however is there an easy check to see which is which? Tried trial and error to the gauge but neither combo did anything, am I right in saying the gauge gets power, earthed and the the sensor wire - With the other wire from the sensor going to earth? thanks Simon

Cheers Nigel, have all that working apart from the temp as couldn't get this to work but will have another go. Just stripping the carbs down again and am I right in saying that it doesn't matter that the carbs and manifold don't sit flush, ie you can see some silicone tube as per the picture link below. Also I need to blank off the servo plug, I assume the shortest bolt possible is best so it sticks out into the manifold less Thanks Simon https://www.dropbox.com/s/3s6dazzvohebkr3/file%2025-03-2015%2020%2031%2048.jpeg?dl=0

Cheers for the advice and maps so far. Just tried to run it just on edis and to be fair it didnt make a whole lot of difference. Before i strip down the carbs for a second time (link on this post is great!) i thought id send some links of what it looks/sounds like to see if there is any advice - please be gentle i'm not a mechanic! https://www.dropbox....r31j3HxFYDsaK0a https://www.dropbox....5jE5HqhOIPtYWSa https://www.dropbox....oIDkkOIG_eTBNza https://www.dropbox....5H03Ef6Dxo7tmXa https://www.dropbox....kQQkdBg_jW-c6ua

Cheers for the quick replies and maps, I'll have a look at a few of the suggestions and try some next week. Thinking about it, when I dip the throttle and it stalls it does sound like it is taking in too much air. I'll see if I can record a clip next week and post - however going to look around for a good rr as that sounds like it may be the quickest solution....albeit summer doesn't seem to be turning up anytime soon!

Cheers guys,

I'll scour the web to try and find one, I have loaded one in the past that was for a similar set up but it made little difference. Plan would be to get it to a rolling road to tune but I'd like to be able to drive it there at least!

Hi all So 90% done on my re build before spraying....but I need to get it running better. Running standard 2l blacktop on standard (I believe) r1 carbs, fuel pump from the bike with one filter. Megajolt jnr as the brain with no map ( or whatever is pre loaded) Inlet manifold angled so floats sit level Firstly does the above sound ok, worried I should maybe change to bigger carb jets? First issue - doesn't start easy, one if choke on carbs is opened. If throttle is open opened at all the it stalls instantly (over fuelling?). Plugs are black so again assuming over fuelling. Any advice on some potential checks/tweaks?? Thanks Simon

Evening So on everyone's advice I now have the pump going the right way Next question is on the expansion tank as still getting water pouring from the air bleed on the thermostat. As I have a pressurised rad can I just route a tube from the air bleed back to the rad or do I need the exp tank? If so -one tube from bleed to exp tank, other tube to ?? Only natural connection is one of the blanked off heater ones, otherwise I'll need a t section I assume. Should be the final piece of the cooling jigsaw so thanks for any help Cheers Simon