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1186497

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Posts posted by 1186497

  1. Evening, just after a quick bit of advice before I do it wrong

     

    Have 3 wires from the Bosch alt

     

    B+ - easy enough - straight to battery

    D+ - warning light? Do I have to have one?

    DF - ?

     

    Thanks for any help

    Simon

  2. Thanks for the pic. I haven't got a header tank, or expansion tank which I've seen some people have when googling.

    Everything else looks ok, is the header tank essential, I am using a radiator with pressurised cap if that's makes any difference

    Cheers

  3. Evening

    Looking for a little advice.

    Struggling with the cooling on my zetec as I can't get the water fully circulating round. I am running the water pump the wrong way but I don't believe that is a major issue especially when just idling which is all mine is good for at the moment.

    So a couple of questions, 1st pic, am I being too optimistic with the angle of this pipe?

    2nd pic, currently I've blanked this off with a screw as it was shooting water everywhere, I'm 99% sure this isn't the answer, what's it supposed to do?

     

    Any help really appriciated

    Thanks

    Simon

    post-1039-0-32257600-1422480131_thumb.jpg

    post-1039-0-38088900-1422480144_thumb.jpg

  4. Will go for the full clean option rather than just spraying the bits, have one plastic filter between pump and carbs but both are in the engine bay. Will get a metal one ordered just in case. Why does the pump need to be near the tank? DFitting in the engine bay is 100% easier as geting to the tank would be a right bugger. Currently have it mounted to the back of the passenger footwell firewall..

    Thanks

    Simon

  5. Thanks for the responses.

     

    Tractor will PM you now with an email address as that would be great to get the map.

     

    It does rev although tries to stall when throttle slightly opened, once engine is warm it seems to be better albeit a bit lumpy.

    I think stripping and cleaning the carbs is a good shout so i'll do that this weekend and see how it is following that.

    Just a thought i have an R1 bike fuel pump connected diretly to the carbs - assume this does not need a pressure regulator.

     

    Cheers

    Simonn

  6. Evening, All sorted.

    After stripping the carbs I couldn't see anything wrong, however I had forgotten to blank off the vacuum input into the inlet manifold, once this was done all was good, albeit still ropey.

     

    Still a couple of issues though,

     

    1. Does anyone have a Megajolt map that I could upload as a start - Standard blacktop on Standard R1 Carbs.

    2. Only starts if the choke is opened, after which a blip of the throttle and it wants to die....if you do it slowly of when hot then its ok - could this be flooding,

    3. Really cant get the throttle cable to have a smooth action, anyone got any pics of how they have done theirs. I'm using a bike cable as fits the R1 nicely but getting it to the pedal is a nightmare as doesn't return fully all the time. Albeit once I do get this working I have found I cant wear shoes when I want to drive it.....using a zero pedal set (another mistake) and the pedals are very close together - I'm telling myself this is a good security measure.

     

    Cheers for the previous help....got a bit more motivation now its going!

     

     

  7. Hi all

    Cheers for the ideas, tried them and to no avail.

    Nigel you 100% number 1 is cambelt end? Mine is set up on the coil pack with the shortest lead on coil pack at number one so I had it the other way round. Never checked just assumed who I got the coil pack from had it right. Would it still start if in reverse?

     

    Not got a compression tester so may save that for the last check. Stripping the carbs it is then, sure I'll find a guide online but if anyone has one to hand that would be great

     

    Cheers for the help

    Simon

  8. Hi all

     

    Any help would be greatly appreciated on things to check befor I strip the carbs down

     

    Running (or trying to) blacktop zetec, r1 carbs on megajolt. Exhaust is cold on the cylinder 1, closest to the coil pack, if I have that right.

     

    Plug shows no sign of running but does spark when removed and checked.

     

    What would you check next??

     

    Thanks for any help

    Cheers

    Simon

  9. Cheers guys, still not 100% decided but think I'm going for some that are multi functional all in one light.

    Does anyone know if the lights have to come sit at a certain angle for the mot? I'd prefer to mount straight to the wheel arch with no casing but that would mean they angle up slightly?

  10. Evening all,

     

    On the final leg...I hope of getting my 2b back on the road. Apart from getting the engine running as it

    should I need to get some rear lights sorted.

    Bought these last week but the housings are really bad quality so are going back

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/231058646182?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

     

     

    So does anyone have any good recommendations for rear lights. Ideally small, LED, multifunction so as to keep it as minimalist as possible

     

    Any ideas really appreciated

     

    Thanks

    Simon

  11. Evening all,

     

    I have a zetec blacktop with R1 carbs mounted by way of a ST170 plastic manifold. My issue is the manifold isn't angled enough to make the choke chambers sit straight so I think its going to run badly.

     

    Is there a better solution to this, I imagine a custom manifold is the expensive answer?

     

    Thanks

    Simon

  12. Hi All.

     

    Another wiring post, want to get the zetec fired up to give me that motivation to put the time in to finish this summer! I feel i'm nearly there but pretty much a beginner in wiring. I have all the bits...I think, its just a case of trying not to fry everything. Rather than trial and error and risk that I thought it worth putting on here for feedback. Attached is a very rough diagram. No relays just fuses, so please let me know where changes should be made...asd im sure there are lots. Biggest concern is not killing the megajolt and edis4.

     

    Thanks for any advice

    Simon

    post-1039-0-31895100-1366406344_thumb.jpg

  13. In fact looking at it, if I have my shielded cable do I connect one end of the shield to the edis4 (via a smaller guage wire) and also to an earth point on the chassis, so in effect have two wires coming off the shield.......and then do again at the other end?

  14. Hi all,

     

    Bit of advice needed if anyone can help please.... Just wiring everything up to the Edis 4 and Megajolt and have a couple of questions. Firstly am I doing it right, and secondly how the heck do you connect the cable shield?

     

    Im following the below, and so far have the wires coming out of the edis unit with spade connectors on the end, connecting then to the crank sensor etc.. hopefully that sounds ok.....theory was to keep it fully removable.

     

    The VR sensor, PIP and SAW I was planning on using a bit of the shielded wire and solder directly to the pin of the edis 4 (got one without oem connector) then to spade connectors and out to where it needs to go. However wiring the cable shield directly to the edis 4 is near on impossible as it is a big old wire??? can I trim it down or do I need to wire to a smaller gauge wire first??

     

    edis4wiring.jpg

  15. Thanks for the replies, went to the two at Barnsley which were good, quite a contrast as ones a fun / traditional one.... cars dumped everywhere and piled high. The other one organised but limited. Got all the wiring I need, but no edis 4....they were wise to them making £25 on ebay so took them off on delivery. Ebay it is.

  16. Cheers all, didn't realise they had resistors built into the connectors so that scuppers my original plan. Off to a scrap yard tomorrow if I can find one as the good old days of them being everywhere seems to have been killed off by health and safety!

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