ivorbigun

Yes it is

looks like you have the English version once you have the serial number you can get loads of info on the Web

and no not outdated just more suitable for running machinary like lathes and mills

have a good look around the internet there are loads of forums to get you better informed

I was going to go the vfd route but changed my mind after a bit of research.

and I could get VFD'S for free then (from industrial ac units )

you don't need a soft start unless you're using a VFD

my lathe is 2hp mill 1 1/2hp and my 3hp rotary runs both at the same time.

Moved mine on scaff tube's once I'd hyab'd it through the door but I do have a nice flat sea container floor !

If you can stretch to it I would thoroughly recommend a rotary phase converter one does everything.

VFD'S can only do one motor easily does the mill have a power feed or dro??

Ok here's a photo of my bridgeport motor

called a friend of mine who runs his on a VFD says motor seems fine he only uses it occasionally though

HTH

I will have that off you.

Are you doing Stoneleigh.

If not is paypal gift to friend without charges ok.

you have a PM

I run a rotary phase converter that way I have 3 phase 415v and a neutral so my single phase DRO's works on the same supply and I don't have to worry about future purchases.

as for your 240v 3phase it does exist and will power motors that are dual voltage i.e. most modern one's, I believe all VFD's are like this, check the label say's 415/240v 3phase, confuses some people when they buy these motors thinking they will run on single phase!

the rotary I run is a transwave 3hp runs my mill, lathe, plasma cutter, grinder, polisher, etc.

Their not cheep but will run machines with electronic controls etc.

you can make your own there's loads on the internet about them I've started to collect bit's to make a 6hp one to run my big compressor.

I think the Bridgeport motor is dual voltage I'll check mine when I get there and let you know.

I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong!!!!!

HTH

there's a section in the video's here near the end I think HTH https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL9qrNZjmGh8M7oESfvvuf3bIBqoyvnsen

just found this wont be needing it for mine (got mini/Landrover one

£15 + postage or collect from ba5 3au area

postage will be £7

could be worse we only get one bus a week on a Wednesday and you only get 2 hours in Wells before it leaves to come back!!!

that's cheep these days even trade

Diesel engine in the 2B then is it

Hope it all goes well

good luck

Ivan

Spotted this thought it might interest or be of use to someone,

https://m.facebook.com/groups/683643831725134?ref=m_notif&notif_t=group_activity&actorid=1563751802

I was thinking of stuff that was pertinent to hoodies.

Does anyone know if these will fit need another one for my Dutton

http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/111696678609

Hi all

I'm in the process of doing the wiring on my 2B when I noticed that my hazard warning light switch cover was missing (sierra square one on the column ), had a look on the internet no luck there.

So decided to have a look around my mates field (he's a bit of a scrap dealer and always has a few ka's and fiesta's about) no luck as no doubt a lot of you know their round, then I spotted an old austin maestro and the cover is square and it fits ! !! Not that there's many of those around either.

Anyone else know of any other bit's like this.

Could be a very useful list

they do look a lot better than the square one's

might have to buy a couple of those.

I used a mount from Car builder solutions and pased IVA with no problems, just check fog light is properly marked.

Build 77g.jpg

is it my eyes or do they have a slight angle on the mount?

Thanks for that I was thinking of something like that except the ones I have are square, I think the custom guys used to call it Frenching.

I'm just trying to do it the easy way as usual.

as for the height the SVA manual states minimum 250mm maximum 1000mm minimum distance from rear light 100mm so I would say your well in.

thanks

Ivan

was it more than one or two degree out of line? if so that's the reason, Was it new or did it come off a 20 year old sierra?

like I've already said if used correctly they are safe and perfectly suitable for their purpose.

surly ford, bmw, Landrover, vauxhall Opel, etc.. etc. etc. cant all be wrong!!

the best joint to use in our set up would probably be a cv joint though.

in my 2B the prop runs at less than 1 degree.

my old Dutton that I had over 20 years ago had one and I was running a fiat 1600 124 sport motor with twin 45's had it for 5 years never had a problem, and I drove it like a lunatic.

if you look at my video you will see that with the later set up the prop cannot come free and so cannot come through the tunnel or anywhere else!!

yes they have to be pretty much inline or they will degrade quicker but they are used on thousands and thousands of cars with no problems at all.

a friend of mine had the front prop UJ on a Toyota pickup come apart at the transfer box he managed to get back to the garage and we had to cut his ankle out of the foot well he still walks with a limp!!!!

so I would certainly say that uj's are more likely to cause injury that's why people fit retainer plates in their tunnels!

like these.

Dont you belive it! if that giubo breaks up it will come through the trans tunnel side and give yout shins the biggest kick they have ever had I.E. probably instant amputation use it but weekly inspection is a must !! mick

OK I now know what a giubo is its Italian for joint or coupling you learn something every day, everyone I know calls them doughnut's but they could just be calling me names!!

A major advantage of these joints is the smoother shock free drive line.

This leads to a much quieter drive line and takes away any diff/rear axle vibrations from the gearbox.

One major safety point is that they would never be fitted without the metal safety ring.

what metal safety ring or are you thinking of this type of joint fitted to earlier models.

agree about the vibrations you could probably use one of these on anything with a fixed diff and gearbox like a 2B without a sliding joint

just to show you all what I'm waffling on about please take a look at this https://youtu.be/QVTci6U72pg

shows that its safer than a universal joint.

Dont you belive it! if that giubo breaks up it will come through the trans tunnel side and give yout shins the biggest kick they have ever had I.E. probably instant amputation use it but weekly inspection is a must !! mick

whats a giubo?? is it a Colloquialism

and if that were the case the health and safety police would have band them years ago

They make a lot of noise hitting the sides of the tunnel if one bolt goes, but I very much doubt anyone would be silly enough to carry on until they do fully collapse and seperate.

if fitted correctly and the gearbox and prop flanges have not been altered they cannot hit the tunnel only bit's of rubber can

GET RID these can be dangerous. There isn't a lot of protection in a kit if these go BANG

I'm sorry but you are wrong just take a look at the above photos of the prop and gearbox the prop would not disengage with the gearbox.

they use similar joints on BMW, Lotus, Range rover, Land rover and discovery etc etc they would only be dangerous if fitted incorrectly.

in fact they are less likely to fly around than a UJ when it lets go!!

I've had UJ's go bang but never one of these they do degrade but they don't go BANG.

that is unless you are daft enough to alter the drive flanges or the way their fitted.