zhap135

4 hours ago, Sparepart said:

Just a thought. Initially you suspected that the starter was not disengaging. You might want to check that it is not re-engaging after the engine has started. Theoretically this is simply to disconnect the feed to the starter solenoid after the engine has started. In practise of course this difficult to do safely, one would probably need to add an extension to the wire that goes to the solenoid so that it can be disconnected easily without hands/spanners etc close to the running engine.

Thanks Spare. I think I've literally just tracked down the issue.

Was going back to basics last night and tracked all wires back the switch. Now the switch is original Sierra, but I bought the kit as a part complete. The previous owner hadn't got very far with it, so i assumed that the original harness all correct and untampered with. Last night I noticed whilst looking at the Haynes manual and the switch that the wire colours into the switch terminal were wrong (I've been keeping wire colours true to their  original ford purpose as much as poss, even when using the CBS FB)- up until now it hadn't even occurred to me to verify the wires going into the switch. 

So all this time the ign and start had been swapped over. I had probably "made things work" with a bit of swapping and splicing - I didn't keep a full diary of what I'd done, but it might explain a couple of minor oddities that I've had to work around since

Now have reconnected the switch terminals, redirected the ign switch wires to the proper CBS modules. Engine starts, alternator provides about 13.5V with no noise and I'm a happy bunny.

Will have to go through all other functions now to test (superficially everything seems to work well), but whereas I didn't keep a diary, I know most of the workarounds that I did.

I'm really glad it wasn't the starter or alt as they were both new units

So, as ever, thanks all for your inputs

7 hours ago, IanS said:

Realy does sound like pos earth alternator. not that I know of any, in the 1960s some cars were positive earth for early germanium transistor radios but I think that they were all dynamo.

When you read alternator volts what polarity do you get?

do you get the same volts on ACvolts as DCvolts?

It is a new alternator so most probably duff.

I'll have a look at that, thanks. Didn't think to actually check the polarity cos it was me

9 hours ago, Peter Bell said:

Assume you have a filament type bulb as a charge light?

Hi Peter, no led,

4 hours ago, blue said:

0k hard to be 100% sure without hearing it but the screeching is prob the alt belt not tight enough and when the alt is under load it’s slipping.   That’s why when plugged it it’s drawing current not supplying 

Thanks Blue. That did occur to me, however the noise is less squeal and more screech. It's pretty grindy. It also is in unaffected by tightening and loosening fan belt

Also voltage across battery drops by one, rather than rising

Engine back in after fixed core plug and subsequent sheared clutch housing bolt. 

Engine runs nicely (needs fine tuning/timing, but sustains at idle) BUT horrible screeching sound eminating from Engine.

After alot of ruling things out (initially thought it was solenoid failing to retract, so stripped and lubed) finally tracked noise down to alternator. It seems that when the alternator is plugged in instead of producing current it is drawing (PD across battery is 12.5 when inactive, drops to 11-11.5), which seems to make a vibration. when alt unplugged engine runs quietly and smoothly, and alternator reads ~16V.

All is plugged in to CBS 12 module unit which otherwise works fine - no loss of charge overnight, all circuits working.

Any ideas?

PS, alternator warning light only half extinguishes when engine running. The alt, starter and battery all new, and apparently otherwise healthy. Am a bit stumped, any ideas - are some alternators pos earthed or summat??

Hiya, got a photo? and what diameter/ length springs do they take - I presume that the 15/16 inch is from measured from the centre of each mounting. I may be showing my ignorance, I'm no expert in shocks

35 minutes ago, agent_zed said:

I made my vin up when i did SVA a long time ago. Wasn't questioned by sva or dvla. I guess it depends on which way the wind is blowing though as DVLA aren't always consistent. I like it as it is details personal to me including the year i started and the year i finished. Very few people can say they have a personalised vin number

As for areas they might ask for photos for... I was asked to show evidence of anti-crush tubes in the top suspension mount that slides into the roll bar at the rear. I had to weld in a tube that the bolt then goes through so doing up the bolt won't deform the tubes. 

Interesting point as personalised, I know exactly what I'd  put in there - did they not question that at all?

11 hours ago, richyb66 said:

Nothing is stamped on the chassis by the factory. Safest option is probably to apply for one.

Cool. Yes unlikely as it would be to duplicate an existing with 17 characters, it would be just me luck...

3 minutes ago, richyb66 said:

VIN number will be new to the car. You can either write to the DVSA and ask for one or do what I did which is to make your own up - 17 characters but i think no I, O or Z. With letters and numbers you get a fair few permutations, enough to ensure you'll probably get something unique (certainly in the UK).

Thanks Richy! I was being facetious when I said make one up - you couldn't, well, make it up! Would RH have originally stamped one on somewhere? am I missing something?

2 hours ago, phaeton said:

Having just done an IVA I wasn't asked for any photos of anything, although he could see the seatbelt mounts, which he failed as I had used split spring washers they cannot be used on any part of the seatbelt mount/brackets although they came with the kit. The other one on seatbelts is you have to be able to take the bolt/nut out/off with a single spanner so one end has to be captive, as said mine was not a RH so fixings might be different I used 8.8 nuts & bolts which wasn't acceptable.

You will need the VIN stamped into the chassis somewhere on the offside in the engine bay area, you will also need a plate with the VIN number which can be riveted onto any surface in the cockpit https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/andygallecher/m.html?ssPageName= will make up whatever you want. I had the MEV logo, the Make, Model, Vin, My name, Colour & year of manufacture.

MAgic!, that's fantastic will give them a whirl!

With the VIN, is this the old Sierra one, or does it need to be specific to the Hood? If it needs to be specific to the hood, how do we generate one, do we just make one up?

21 minutes ago, 2bTom said:

Will this pass?

Think so, got a spare?

1 hour ago, phaeton said:

To arrange the IVA which you can do online https://www.gov.uk/apply-vehicle-approval, they need to see the receipt for the new chassis, I wasn't the original purchaser of the kit, so had to declare I was completing a part built, even though it wasn't started as the original receipt wasn't in my name. https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/iva-application-form-for-passenger-cars-iva-1c also https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/971185/individual-vehicle-approval-amateur-built-declaration.pdf

 

For the actual IVA you just need to take the V5C so they can see what the engine is to determine the test it has to have, 

Thanks, so there is a work around for that - bit of a relief! I've also seen that there needs to be VIN plates from RH? don't have those I think, but presume there is a workaround for that too

56 minutes ago, alanrichey said:

They also like photos of the safety critical areas they can’t immediately see. Lower seatbelt mounts are a favourite.

Yes spotted that, glad I saw that before I started upholstering and permanently fitting the seats.

Did I see something about reinforcing the handbrake mounts?

30 minutes ago, nelmo said:

These guys cut my screen to size, stamped and all for £90...they came to my house, measured up, came back a week or so later with the cut glass...

Well that makes a massive load of sense, IVA or not. Thanks for the tip!

47 minutes ago, phaeton said:

It won't pass IVA unless it is marked, has to have 43R & the word Laminated on it, I've just failed IVA on this same issue, not on a RH, but I submitted mine with a laminated screen from a 1973 VW Beetle 1303, the tester agreed it was the correct screen, even said VW on it, but as it wasn't marked with 43R & Laminated it failed. Also a heated screen would also need blowers, go figure that one.

Yeah, I'm considering getting the IVA done without a screen, otoh I still need to get the car there, and an hours drive without a screen would probably be not much fun, andneed a crash lid, if only to protect the eyes from insects and grit. it would save a load of hassle re the infrastructure mind.

No way! some times these rules tie themselves in knots....

41 minutes ago, phaeton said:

Is this for IVA or Registration,

 

As for receipt for purchase, I wrote a simple received £xxx for S123 ABC Make model, Date & had my son sign it in the name of the seller 

IVA initially, hadn't thought of reg yet....

Naughty! is that seriously all they expect to see?

52 minutes ago, Peter Bell said:

Try contacting a local screen company if they will cut you one as above. I know it was many years ago but Autoglass cut me one for a Dyane once

That's a great tip, will give them a shout - didn't consider them as I though they only did prefabricated

1 hour ago, IanS said:

https://www.pilkington.com/en-gb/uk/automotive/what-is-available

Expensive but made to measure

Yes, literally this morning got a quote for 2k.... 

Local glass company will do one for about £50 in 6mm laminate, but won't be stamped sadly

Does everyone have a link to the definitive list of docs and plates required?

I have the V5 and 2 plates which originally come from the donor Not sure thta I have bills of sale or anything like that. 

39 minutes ago, alanrichey said:

I can see no reason why you want to fit a windscreen for the IVA.  You have to sort out wipers, heaters, washers...  Much easier to do all that after the test without the added hassle.  Just my opinion

Yeah, a lot of the infrastructure is already there, and the ports for wipers washers and vents were already cut. At some point i'll need a screen, so regardless of IVA the q stands. I never knew it would be such a pain trying to find glass!

Having a right job finding a supplier to do windscreens for an S7. I have the frame. but no glass. I'd like to get teh windscreen done as part of the test, as I'll be wanting a screen anyway, just seems to make sense, although am considering leaving it till after. Either way I'm having a job with suppliers.

Brum mentioned SHX Screens in Norwich, but I'm having a job contacting them - does anyone know whether they are still operational, and whether they still are using the same contacts?

Does anyone else have a sound responsive (cheap!) supplier, or have an S7 screen floating about?

7 hours ago, Sparepart said:

That wire, that you have no clue as to what it is for ?  ... It is always the wire through which you inject the Loom/Harness smoke.

3 hours ago, fry61 said:

Will try to be more helpful by looking at build electrics used -- but it was a long time ago.  Are you using "Longboarders" wiring diagram which shows the connections between mini 2 speed wiper & Ford column switch? 

No, am using the CBS wiring diag alongside the Haynes and working out with a bit of trial and error. I had it wired some time ago, so knew it all worked but decided to swap out the ford FB. It's been a pain, but I'm glad I did it

Mind you , sorting that out has enabled me to tidy up under the dash a massive amount - looks less like a trashed birds nest now..... only have a couple of unfixed wires. Washer, fan and stat (both to be sourced still but wires waiting for them) and radio (again, need to source that.) Also an obligatory wire that i have no clue what its for....

Thanks Fry - Florin?

Sounds like you believe that its a new relay?

Should point out that only 3 of the 4 relay contacts are currently used. 

That's the problem isn't it - the one that usually goes to the int speed adjuster still has to go the fuse box, it can't just be terminated.....

And that will need a separate fuse I think as there isn't one on the CBS box, unless I use one that currently out of use - eg the interior lights....

Update: no, that isn't the issue (or might be, but trying it hasn't solved the problem), tried wiring that and nothing. Again other 2 speeds work fine.

2nd update: The Haynes wiring diag suggested that there should be a Bk/Y wire to a int speed adjuster. However looking at the old FB the unused pin actually links to a busbar which is earthed. Tried it, works now! There doesn't appear to be an option for an adjuster in my model (that would require 5 pins of the wiring diag was to be believed, which is not the case)

Fantastic, another job ticked off the list! Thanks for your hep Fry!

So wired in the wiper motor yesterday. Am using ford paddles, original ford relay, mini r&P motor, CBS fuse box. Everything works fine except for the Intermittent, which shift slightly and just stop. When turned off they return to park. Fast and slow work beautifully. 

Have opened the relay and seems in good nick, and clicks over when bench tested, but that is teh extent of my testing

HAs anyone had anything similar? I'm throwing this out to all before I buy a new relay - have been somewhat spend-thrifty of late.....