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zhap135

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Everything posted by zhap135

  1. My bonnet is the old lift off type. I'm finding that when trying to secure it with the standard iva bonnet catches it wants to spring off - not a great look I'm sure all will agree. Did anyone have an IVA compliant method of securing this type of bonnet? I'm thinking of fabricating some kind of brackets, and then bolting through, but I wanted to find if anyone has any good ideas before I commit
  2. zhap135

    Seats

    Hi all, I'm after some very narrow IVA compliant seats. The overall max width needs to be in the region of 400mm - bucket seats probably aren't an option as a result. Search prompted by teh eye watering cost of new seats, so am after a bargain, and the fact that the original seats I believe aren't compliant to the new rules re headrests. Thanks all A
  3. zhap135

    Fuel line

    Thanks Kevin. Tellme, how is the fuel line secured in the tunnel?
  4. zhap135

    Fuel line

    Brilliant, thanks!
  5. zhap135

    Fuel line

    Thanks for that tip!
  6. zhap135

    Fuel line

    Thanks Harry, is that along the top of the tunnel, or just inside the box section where the passenger might test their left elbow?
  7. zhap135

    Fuel line

    The (inherited) fuel line on my S7 (monoquoque) is metal (presume copper) and runs the rough the tunnel. Got to admit that I don't like it, not least as it isn't flared so there isn't a positive secure when attaching rubber - I'm not even sure if it is acceptable to IVA in its current from My question is were I to reroute it are there any rules from the IVA? Have been poring over the manual, and haven't identified any reference to the line (I know there must be some somewhere) Am toying with running a continuous rubber fuel line along the top of the tunnel which will be secured and covered with an upholstered MDF panel , routed to provide a conduit (already have the panel in question, just needs to be modified). I'm just uneasy that would be an acceptable solution. I really don't want to have repeat it's existing route, through the tunnel as I'd have to dismantle the tunnel to ensure that the line could be sufficiently secured. Am I over thinking this? What have other folk done or considered for this? Edit: you can just see the fuel line emerging into the engine bay on the bottom of this picture.
  8. zhap135

    Fan switch

    So it seems that I'm definitely wrong and the received wisdom is at the top in the outfeed. Also by the by, have just wired in a stat switch in to the CBS 12 mod relay - in this case it is fed by the switched feed, so when the engine's off so is the fan. I don't have a particular view on this - my main thing was to use the existing feed, fuse and relay so I could avoid putting a separate one in.
  9. zhap135

    Fan switch

    I though that might be the case, and although it may be useful on the dash, it (the CBS one at least) looks plug ugly
  10. zhap135

    Fan switch

    Aaah, that looks like a very similar setup to to the CBS, but they only supply the stat itself for about the same cost. Tell me, did you mount the dial on the dash, or leave it in the engine bay?
  11. zhap135

    Fan switch

    So there is an adjustable that CBS sell, have been chatting to them. At the top seems to be consensus (still think it should be at the bottom, but I'll go with the top so I can say "told you so" whilst I'm waiting for the AA), and there is a probe that looks like it can just be tucked into the duct at the union with the rad. I've got a relay on the FB, and have already run the leads so might as well use it. Thanks Trev! A
  12. zhap135

    Fan switch

    Thanks for the tip. I'm running a 1600 pinto. What is your temp switch set at, and what engine do you have?
  13. zhap135

    Fan switch

    Yeah I see. Tthe temperature gauge from the block would be the one to indicate overheating, and of course you need to stop if that's the case My logic is that if taken from the outfeed the water is always likely to be hot when the engine is at temp , so the fan will be always on (not a problem in itself but kind of negates the need for a thermostatic switch, and puts load on the engine perhaps unnecessarily.) On the other hand you want to know that if the water entering the engine hasn't at least been cooled sufficiently by the rad alone it gets a bit of help by turning the fan on. That's my theory anyway, but I'd sooner test the theory to destruction that the block!
  14. zhap135

    Fan switch

    Hmm, not sure I'm that keen, (for the electric water pump) but allowing over run of course is simply which terminal it's wired. I'm using a light battery, so would be just as well to make sure I'm not going to flatten it. Actually a really good point has occured to me. Is there a favoured place to mount the inline switch? rad infeed or out feed, top or bottom? EDIT: I'm thinking it should be on the bottom/infeed as you want to regulate the temp going in, rather than run the fan based on the temp of the water coming out - is that right?
  15. zhap135

    Fan switch

    That's brilliant Alan. I see that by allowing the fan to continue after the engine stops will continue to cool the radiator., however the coolant is no longer circulating, so the engine will still largely cool under it's own convection/radiation. What was the reason to keep the fan running?
  16. zhap135

    Fan switch

    Yeah, CBS do something along those lines. The easiest think will to put it direct into teh block, I just don't know whether that's possible
  17. zhap135

    Fan switch

    Good call thanks - a friend of mine did this in his capri, so will have a chat with him on wiring
  18. zhap135

    Fan switch

    An looking to fit an electric fan on the pinto. Was wondering whether to put the stat/switch inline with the coolant hose, or does anyone know whether it's possible to get a switch/sender combo that goes in the block where the standard sender goes?
  19. Yes, the light itself is an LED. I've since properly wired it, and it seems to have improved. I guess that my temporary connection/test wiring wasn't good enough, and now I've done it properly the [problem has evaporated
  20. Similar thing yes, exactly that. Now that I've corrected that all the mechanicals work no probs. I now have issues with the lights regarding the CBS module. So this is getting a bit frustrating - it's like playing Waccamole. I believe due to the wiring of the ford paddles (being consistent with ford relays) there are certain conflicts with the CBS relays. Some is clearly functional - the lights switch feed is off one fuse, and is always live. My belief is that the heads should not be able to be left on when teh key is removed, whereas the sides can. Does it matter? Maybe only to me. I've already had to isolate the wiper circuit and reincorporate the ford relay there. Now I fear that I might need to do the same with the sides, heads and beam, and the hazards. In particular the inds/hazards are just not drawing enough to get an audible click from the blinker switch (on one weird misconnection the other day the heads started flashing with the hazards - hey presto a satisfying click from eh blinker!)
  21. Now have tracked the issue and largely sorted, the battery light light seems to be much improved, althoug there is a slight illumination when running normally - very faint. Not sure that it matters much?
  22. Thanks Spare. I think I've literally just tracked down the issue. Was going back to basics last night and tracked all wires back the switch. Now the switch is original Sierra, but I bought the kit as a part complete. The previous owner hadn't got very far with it, so i assumed that the original harness all correct and untampered with. Last night I noticed whilst looking at the Haynes manual and the switch that the wire colours into the switch terminal were wrong (I've been keeping wire colours true to their original ford purpose as much as poss, even when using the CBS FB)- up until now it hadn't even occurred to me to verify the wires going into the switch. So all this time the ign and start had been swapped over. I had probably "made things work" with a bit of swapping and splicing - I didn't keep a full diary of what I'd done, but it might explain a couple of minor oddities that I've had to work around since Now have reconnected the switch terminals, redirected the ign switch wires to the proper CBS modules. Engine starts, alternator provides about 13.5V with no noise and I'm a happy bunny. Will have to go through all other functions now to test (superficially everything seems to work well), but whereas I didn't keep a diary, I know most of the workarounds that I did. I'm really glad it wasn't the starter or alt as they were both new units So, as ever, thanks all for your inputs
  23. I'll have a look at that, thanks. Didn't think to actually check the polarity cos it was me
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