zhap135

On 12/7/2019 at 10:18 PM, theduck said:

Pair of recaro seats as included with many 2b kits - £offers

 

Hello Duck, I know this is an old thread, are the matching fuel and temp guages, and rear light clusters still available?

Also,  how about the seats? are they still available too ?

 

 

 

 

 

Hello Burney, I'm wiring one of these up too.

May I ask a couple of questions to pick your brains?

Where did you wire in the rear fogs - currently I have them off the dipped beams as per the ford wiring harness. This mean that they turn off when you switch from dipped to full. Do you find the same?

Horn - I can hear the relay click, but no sound. If I wire up direct  the horn sounds as it should (but is not fused). Have you found this issue too?

Where have you put in the reversing lights? - I've used the same spur as the brake lights

Did you have fun and games with the hazards currently mine are working without the hazard feed from the ford column switch, except when the ignition is off. If I link the hazard feed to the brake spur everything works fine (it gets better - when I had tehm linked to the "correct" spur, adn the ignition was off, when you turned them on the engine would turn in time with the blinkers)

Currently the for column switch light feed is disconnected (lights work fine).  If I connect to the "correct " spur, they don't work. What I'm worried about is that they're not fused currently

Lastly, have you wired the wipers yet?

Sorry, I know I've piled in with a load of questions, but if you have time It'd be great to pick your brains

I think there's a monthly (or was) in Hitchin for anyone with a classic, or interesting car. They did an event at the Lavender Fields last year which was pretty fun.

Do you guys still meet up?

9 hours ago, Peter Bell said:

Well done so far, it sounds like you may have an earth problem somewhere, re the lights there were 2 types of indicator switches with earths in different positions, if you do a search on here you may find the correct earth pin number. I suspect Longboarder knows off the top of his head. 

BTW are you near Shefford?

Yes that did occur to me - I have yet to wire in the rear lights, although they are ready to do so, so that might help. Thanks for the tip though, that'll be my next thing to check.

Yes, as it happens I'm in Letchworth, Are you just up the road?

On 6/13/2020 at 7:46 PM, nelmo said:

That's a great story - well done for doing that

Thanks Nelmo, that's s lovely thing to say. Common sense says I should have moved on and sold it years ago, but I just couldn't quite bring myself to do it, even though I had a couple of opportunities. Glad I didn't now!

6 hours ago, blue said:

Yes well done.   Hope it inspires you to keep going

Thanks Blue! Yes, when you get these victories it really spurs you on doesn't it!

22 hours ago, blue said:

Hi. Yes we have. 
ok if you hold the key engaging the starter and the engine sounds like it’s running check the main earth as sometimes the engine earths through the starter if the main earth is poor. 

20 hours ago, Peter Bell said:

Sounds like you have a problem with the ignition wiring, Some setups are when cranking the coil gets 12v then when released it goes through a resistor dropping the voltage to 9v, which is the normal operating supply. The resistor may have gone or connection failed. Have you changed any of the wiring?

Haven’t rewired  the ford connector to the ignition switch by any chance?

On 6/11/2020 at 10:28 PM, theduck said:

Ignition timing ok? 

Is there a fuel cut off on the carb that needs 12v when ignition is on? That caught me out on a couple carbs.

Success!

Peter, you were pretty close . I started to suspect during the week that my transfer of the ford wiring looms to a CBS fuse box might be causing an issue. The other night my daughter was helping me by turning the key so I could get close the engine to see what was happening. She held the starter motor going (obvs you and I would release as soon as we got ignition) and the engine stayed on for longer. I didn't cotton on at the time but it did stick in my mind and kept coming back.

last night I expose all the wiring and found a couple of  circuits which were incompatible between the module and the ford wiring loom. As things were set up the coil was only receiving juice from the starter motor, hence it petered out when the key was released, but kept going when my daughter did it. My bench testing was not sufficient to pick up these issues.

So a bit of rerouting and splicing later, and I now have full ignition. Also the horn relay now works, when it didn't before. Weirdly the horn doesn't, although when routed directly.

Have a couple of issues that have surfaced which weren't apparent before. Now the headlights don't work, and interestingly the engine turns when the hazards are switched on (but only in time with the blinkers)

Just want to say thanks so much all for responding to posts. This is the first time that the engine has fired in the best part of 20 years, since my Dad died. We were working on it together, but I moved away and got married, and I've only really had chance to work on it over the past couple of years, and then infrequently. It's like it's come alive again.

17 minutes ago, zhap135 said:

Thanks Peter, not a fuel supply issue, carb is allowing plenty through when we start. I have not been able to locate a fuel filter. It certainly does not appear to be in teh carb. This i sinteresting, as in the Haynes manual it is a discrete unit. Interesting, may need to get that rectified!

Although on second look the filter is in the section about injection systems and not mentioned int eh carb fuel system section

So were the early carbed sierras fitted with a filter?

5 hours ago, blue said:

Ok idle mix screw approx one turn out from full in.  
hold throttle open slightly while cranking 

if nothing spray some brake cleaner /easy start in carb - does it start for a second or 2 ? 

If yes fuel problem if no look at spark 

but from how your description reads it sounds like fuel as car would not try to start if it was spark 

Hello again Blue, I think we had a few chat's on my earlier threads - thanks for all your previous help if I didn't say so before

Everything is starting, and we get fuel coming into the carb. The issue becomes apparent  when the ignition key is released. I'm starting to get a horrible suspicion that maybe it's only firing when the starter motor is activiated.  I think my next bit is to verify the wiring (again )

5 hours ago, Peter Bell said:

Sounds like a fuel supply problem if it starts but then stops. Is your pump working ok, blocked filter?

Thanks Peter, not a fuel supply issue, carb is allowing plenty through when we start. I have not been able to locate a fuel filter. It certainly does not appear to be in teh carb. This i sinteresting, as in the Haynes manual it is a discrete unit. Interesting, may need to get that rectified!

There is, the anti dieseling solenoid. I've bench tested it, and can hear it click when turning on the ignition so I think that's fine. I may well check again though.

COuld it be a mixture issue? there is an idle mix adjust as well as an idle speed. I've been trying to find how to check that it's okay, but so far can only find how to adjust when the engine is running which is of course the problem

Hello all, this is a continuation of a couple of threads that I started a few weeks ago.

So, Sierra S7, 1.6 pinto engine. New fuse box. Fresh petrol. Recently serviced ford VV carb (yes I know ...) new starter motor and battery.

I've got to the stage where I get ignition and the engine turns over a few times (sounding quite healthy), and then peters out. Try to restart and the same happens. sometimes farting and coughing from the carb as it runs down.

I'm reading up and doing web searches, but any ideas would be most welcome.

Thanks all!

1 hour ago, zhap135 said:

Hi Bob, thanks

I have the top cover off now, and am looking to empty the carb. There is fuel there - it doesn't appear t be floating on water but am going to clear it anyway.

The jets and feed tubes seem to be clear, can blow through them no probs

Although the solenoid is operating the tip is blackened - I don't know whether this is normal or indicates crud in this area

As an update have emptied out the carb and cleaned it - there was a bit of crud in the bottom which has been removed. Still no start. I don't believe that fuel is finding its way from the float chamber to the jet. A second inspection of the anti dieselling solenoid shows it to be bone dry, so I think it's not getting that far.

22 hours ago, Bob Tucker said:

Just re-read earlier posts....

Hi Blue, yes, the engine fires after spraying with holts,  but peters out after a few revs.

That sounds more & more like water in the carb

Hi Bob, thanks

I have the top cover off now, and am looking to empty the carb. There is fuel there - it doesn't appear t be floating on water but am going to clear it anyway.

The jets and feed tubes seem to be clear, can blow through them no probs

Although the solenoid is operating the tip is blackened - I don't know whether this is normal or indicates crud in this area

1 minute ago, wanderer said:

why dont you try fresh fuel, put some clean petrol in a plastic drinks bottle and connect it to the fuel pump

Good call, thanks. May well give that a go

17 hours ago, blue said:

Hi sorry assumed you using a Webber.   The ford VV was not a good carb when new.  Most people up graded to a Webber 

before you pull the carb apart there is a solenoid on the vv that needs 12v for car to run  check you have 12v going to it  - never over look the simple

 

2 hours ago, zhap135 said:

Yep sure enough, found the socket and have attached. There is voltage across the terminal which is good. On my brief attempt to start, no joy. so next I guess is to whip the solenoid out and bench test to be certain

Will still check for fuel feed, and have the reconditioning kit on order - bit lucky there happened to be a guy on ebay had a major overhaul lit in good nick for £20

So, solenoid tested, works a treat, fuel line is pumping

Fuel is a bit grubby - 

So, solenoid test, works a treat. 

Fuel pump also working beautifully, however fuel is a little grubby  It's hard to see here, but there seems to be a certain amount split out fluid, which I presume is water. I was going to look at the fuel anyway, but i think I really need to pump it out and refresh perhaps?

Looks like I need to wait for my refurb kit and have a look at the ancillary wiring for the time being

31 minutes ago, zhap135 said:

That is a really good steer thanks, I'll look into that too. I had the car running many years ago, but I don't remember that bit.

Yeah at some point I mean to upgrade, but I want to get it on the road first and past its IVA. I've got a lsit of upgrades I want to do after that and when the budget will sustain

Yep sure enough, found the socket and have attached. There is voltage across the terminal which is good. On my brief attempt to start, no joy. so next I guess is to whip the solenoid out and bench test to be certain

Will still check for fuel feed, and have the reconditioning kit on order - bit lucky there happened to be a guy on ebay had a major overhaul lit in good nick for £20

14 hours ago, blue said:

Hi sorry assumed you using a Webber.   The ford VV was not a good carb when new.  Most people up graded to a Webber 

before you pull the carb apart there is a solenoid on the vv that needs 12v for car to run  check you have 12v going to it  - never over look the simple

 

That is a really good steer thanks, I'll look into that too. I had the car running many years ago, but I don't remember that bit.

Yeah at some point I mean to upgrade, but I want to get it on the road first and past its IVA. I've got a lsit of upgrades I want to do after that and when the budget will sustain

55 minutes ago, Bob Tucker said:

https://classiccarbs.co.uk/product/fordfomocomotorcraft-vv-carbcarburettor-servicegasket-kit

Beauty - thanks Bob!

1 hour ago, kevin the chicken said:

They will come with the overhaul kit, probably a fresh needle valve too which was the problem I had. Doesn't take much old fuel to make one stick 

Thanks kevin, got one on order!

16 hours ago, blue said:

Ok. So we now know we have a fuel prob
take pipe off carb (again sensible head on ) place fuel hose in a clear bottle and crank engine for a few secs. - lets make sure we are getting fuel. - If no pipe blockage and or split dia in pump 

if yes. Move on 
ok under the carb inlet pipe is a brass nut inside is a filter - whip it out see if it’s clean etc.  

if yes 

connect all back up crank engine for a couple of secs if no ignition undo top of carb and see if float bowl is full - if yes a more through clean of carb is required- poss buy an overhaul kit 

if no blow through carb fuel inlet to check float needle and reset floats to correct level-50mm full droop if Dgav Weber 

 

Thanks Blue, I'll double check the fuel feed.

Just to preempt, the carb is a ford VV. I cant quite identify the nut that you mentioned - here is a picture of the unit https://photos.app.goo.gl/yWxGysLGyNSzW9QE9

I'm assuming that I'll need to do a strip of the carb, and for this will need new gaskets? 

On 5/11/2020 at 1:33 PM, blue said:

Hi once spark plugs get wet there next to useless. 
ok are you running engine mounted fuel pump or elect. 
you might be getting flooding due to carb float sticking 

what I would do is cut fuel supply to the carb.  Remove the plugs. Crank it to make sure the bores are empty.  Slightly warm the plugs with a lighter ( keep ya common sense head on ) 

install the plugs and crank engine. 
then a quick spray of Holts or what ever you have if engine fires then carb needs a light strip and clean or look at fuel pressure to carb if using electric fuel pump. 
pls let me know how you get on. 

Hi Blue, yes, the engine fires after spraying with holts,  but peters out after a few revs.

I'm pretty sure fuel is reaching the carb itself, as I had to tighten up the fuel lie Jclip to prevent it leaking. A couple of possiblities on my mind are duff fuel, and as you point out dirty carb

Carbs cleaned, confirmed compression stroke

Turned over, and..... Ignition!

This was at about 2200 last night. It petered out after a few revs, but really exciting. Decided to go to bed on a high note!

On 5/10/2020 at 10:15 AM, IanS said:

I had this a couple of years ago.

The ignition switch was coroded inside and whilst it was putting power to the coil when in the normal run position but moving on to the start position it dropped power to the coil.

I soaked the switch in switch cleaner and opperated it from the off through to the start positon lots of times and it came back to life.

I am told that you can still get this part new from ford but I have not bothered.

Thanks Ian.

The ignition switch seems okay - I bench tested before wiring up, and since my first post I've been able to get sparks on cranking - simply a neglected lead now terminated.

Just that I'm not getting ignition yet. So my to do list is now

• Clean carbs
• renew petrol
• check that spark is occurring on correct stroke
• Try again!

14 minutes ago, blue said:

Hi once spark plugs get wet there next to useless. 
ok are you running engine mounted fuel pump or elect. 
you might be getting flooding due to carb float sticking 

what I would do is cut fuel supply to the carb.  Remove the plugs. Crank it to make sure the bores are empty.  Slightly warm the plugs with a lighter ( keep ya common sense head on ) 

install the plugs and crank engine. 
then a quick spray of Holts or what ever you have if engine fires then carb needs a light strip and clean or look at fuel pressure to carb if using electric fuel pump. 
pls let me know how you get on. 

Thanks for the tip on the plugs - just t be clear I don't mean dripping, but there is fuel on them

Engine mounted fuel pump

I'll take the plugs to the other end of the garden and dry with rag before heating them up 

Thanks, I'll give all this a try as soon as I can