Dean Roberts

I'll take them, but hopefully the wife will contact you shortly to haggle and sort out a price + delivery.

Thank you, I will have to wait until I get home and work out the offset, (was curious if the width of these would fit the arches). They may look a bargain now, but if they don't fit and the wife finds out I bought them without checking....then I might get hit in my movable parts.

As the title suggests, will they fit my Robin Hood 2B (considering it's supposed to be based on the Sierra as a donor car)? One of the wheels on my car won't pass the MOT and I was looking on ebay and noticed a set of 4 with tyres for £30 local pick-up. Thought I would get feedback before wasting my money.

Runs sweet when warm and starts every time without any issues, but when it has been sitting all week, the first attempt to start it takes a while and without the choke it would stall every time.. Probably me being picky and spent way too much time in modern day cars that do everything including making the breakfast in the morning.

I'm living in La-La Land then !

OK cheers I will change the order to use the clips suggested by longboarder. Another quick question... Do you think it would be possible to coat the copper pipe in vaseline and then push in thru the middle of the old braided pipe. Could be a time saver and this way it will be double shielded and the fixings will already be in place, just a case of clipping it at each end and and attaching the rubber pipes onto the pump and tank. I imagine I'm living in "La-La land" and more than likely the braided pipe will be too thin, impossible to push the pipe thru, but just a thought?

Cheers for the feedback, I have decided to try and get the following stuff: Copper pipe: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/8MM-x-2-5MTR-SOFT-22G-EASY-FLARE-COPPER-FUEL-PIPE-/200645041069?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2eb7605bad Rubber pipe: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/7-6mm-5-16-R9-FUEL-INJECTION-HOSE-RUBBER-PIPE-SAEJ30R9-/271092734786?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3f1e62db42 Stainless Clips: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Adjustable-10-16mm-STAINLESS-STEEL-JUBILEE-HOSE-CLAMPS-PIPE-CLIPS-AIR-WATER-FUEL-/200986533330?pt=UK_DIY_Material_Nails_Fixing_MJ&hash=item2ecbbb1dd2 Please correct me if any of these items are wrong! And then Sunday attempt to start stripping the passenger and tunnel area with the intention of trying to get the copper down thru the centre and secure it, rubber hose the ends and trim with the trusty hacksaw. If this fails then look at feeding it thru the firewall and passenger area and then into the tunnel after the gear selector using the old copper piping/rubber hose sikaflex trick ;-) All the rest is just hard graft and common sense. Fingers crossed.X

Thanks guys, I was hoping it would be option 2 (as we are on a budget). Ian, never even considered leaving the old pipe and running the new one inside the cockpit area (thought it maybe dangerous). Suppose I would need to use some kind of rubber grommets to protect the piping when entering and leaving the firewall/passenger cockpit. As per Jez's comment, I might have a look under the passenger side carpets, seating and remove side tunnel if it's easy to get off without causing too much damage. Considering I have got to secure the handbrake and check the wiring after finding out that the screws holding the fancy leather interior to the tunnel seem to be rubbing against the wiring.

My wife and I have just purchased a 2b that has been garaged for approx. 2 years. After replacing the battery, flushing the radiator, changing the oil, filters, wash, wax and all the normal basic maintenance we have encountered a fuel leak from the pipe going into the fuel pump in the engine bay area. I would normally just try to repair it, but after more investigation we have noticed the builder used a black braided fuel pipe from the tank to the pump and to test our patience further also noticed that the same pipe seems to be leaking from another place within the tunnel area and will be a pain in bum to get to as it runs along the tunnel next to the brake lines and above the gearbox. The fuel pipe looks like this: Being a newbie to the kit car world and a novice mechanic (my trade - computers), I would appreciate any advice/recommendations for the fixtures, fittings, adapters and fuel line, pipes to use before we send it in for an MOT. I will also mention that when trying to start it after it's been standing, it takes a couple of attempts and drains the battery, could this be the leak? I hopefully intend on attempting one of the options below depending on the outcome of your advice: Option 1 As per previous forums entries I need to overhaul the entire fuel system, pipes etc… and look into adding an electric pump and all the other expensive stuff that goes with it? Option 2 Do we just try to replace the pipe with an 8mm copper/steel pipe down the tunnel (don’t know how I going to secure it, with the gearbox in the way) and add braided or rubber piping to the ends (tank and fuel pump) with some adapters. Then as an added bonus to try and stop the cold starts by fitting a non-return valve? Option 3 Get a mechanic to do it on your recommendations, due to the fuel hazard and my inexperience with such an important part of the car. FYI: We have just fitted it with a new battery and paperwork informs us of a new alternator being fitted. TIA - Dino & Nikki

Happy Robin Hood Valentines day to my wife and here is a picture of her presents:

Cheers Guys, appreciate all the advice and being a complete novice with mechanics I will probably put aside some money for the bike carbs and megajolt...... I have a friend with a Westfield with bike engine (it sounds awesome and goes like a firecracker approx 450bhp)on a 500kg car. Mainly used for track-days and sprints. So completely un-practical for what we want. I have seen some all-in one bike carb sets on ebay, but began starring into space and listening to the cuddly monkey smashing the cymbals when they starting explaining sizes etc...37mm/38mm/40mm. What will I be looking to get and what other extra costs do you think I will incur when purchasing and fitting something like this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ford-PINTO-Complete-Bike-Carb-Conversion-Kit-ZZR1100-40mm-Keihin-IN-STOCK-danST-/331116324007?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4d181224a7 Open to suggestions for best bang for the buck scenario on a very basic 2.0ltr pinto engine that I have no history of and looks like it needs a lot of attention.

Hooray after shrinking the picture down to 100k it on the forum and now time for me to log off. I work on computers all day, so using them of a night time is depressing (I rather be in the garage working on the car)

Kids, Thank you for all the advice on the car. I'm Nikki's worst half and would like to say, "hello" The car at the moment is slowly gathering more dust while the raining season passes by. We have lots of ideas and things we would like to do but first we need to get it thru the MOT. Once this has been accomplished without any issues, we can then concentrate on cleaning it up, service it and repairing/updating anything that's broken (bit of TLC). For anybody who is still interested in the identification of the 2B via the front suspension, Nikki or I will try to post a bigger picture if anybody is still interested?

Hello Iain, I'm the hubby and just managed to find 5 mins online and can inform you the wife knows Blackburn very well (she was born there) :-) Any ideas on how to tell what type of carb is fitted on my manifold? This will be a steep learning curve for a non-mechanical person. Cheers Dino