dandan62

May as well complete this by saying I've now fitted the accuspark dizzy replacing the original one with the amplifier which I took out of the system. It has confirmed my theory that the old one was knackered. Smooth power up to the red line! It always felt a little dead between 2-3k rpm. Only thing is I had the timing at 10 degrees. Using that I now get pinking. Brought it all the way down to 4. But runs very well. Another job crossed off the list. Intermittent starter to sort now. Will take apart tomorrow.

Ignore my last post. I have dug deeper on here and come across all the answers I need. Silly me. Thanks

This question seems to have been asked many times on Google but there are no answers I can find. I have bought a new dizzy because the shaft of my old one has a lot of play in it. I'm trying to match the wires. The wires from the electronic module are green/yellow and red/black. The new dizzy has a red wire and black wire.Which goes to which? I realise I am replacing an inductive dizzy with a hall affect. I hope this doesn't matter! Maybe the lack of an answer means it doesn't matter.. but I'm not willing to take pot luck. Thanks in advance.

Thanks everyone. I shall digest all the info and see if my son is up to the task if he gets his holiday job at the metal workshop.

Thanks everyone.

Thanks everyone. Not sure how to contact him. Do you have his contact name on here?

Sound advice. Thanks.

Many thanks! As usual fabulous help here. Yes the coils are on the list. I thought I would try the tie bar first.

Hi. Does anybody have access to some drawings and details of the tie bar conversion for a Sierra based monocoque? Just the usual rock hard front because of the enormous anti roll bar. I'm hoping my son gets his uni holiday job at the metal workshop like last year.

I hope everyone who went enjoyed Stoneleigh!

David

Thanks for the reply. That makes sense. I was going by various guides that say a 12v feed should go to a 3 ohm coil but didn't take into account the role of the electronic module. Hopefully I'm safe. I have an old coil which seems to match the resistance of the new one. I'll keep it in the car just in case.

My coil failed last year and was replaced by a helpful AA guy who had to ring around to find a replacement I have a nagging dought about whether it's correct. Measuring between the poles I get about 1.25 ohms. I think this means it's a ballast type? The reference number is 11330-B which also leads me to think it is. It's a Sierra 1.6 based car. I believe this was a ballasted system. However measuring the voltage between the positive feed and earth gives 12v with the ignition on , which implies non ballasted. Am I measuring this the right way? I'm thinking I have a ballasted coil on a non ballasted system so the coil will fail? Any thoughts?

David

Slight highjack of this thread but it was so nice to hear that someone else is happy with their 1.6! Mine too has the 2ltr cam.

I did recently add a small 10" extra exhaust box. I wasn't happy with the sound before. Loud and tractor like! Much nicer sound now and I believe it pulls a bit better. That might be my imagination though.

I bought one on eBay for £13. Bought a sim for £7.50 and a £10 top up. Works a treat. Just send a text to it and it returns with gps location which shows on Google maps. A little peace of mind.

Excellent. Yes saw that but it's good to get a recommendation.

Hi. Your SS can sounds like what I need. Could you post the eBay link maybe? Cheers

Lots of good advice there thanks. I'll have to make a spring compressor as mine won't fit between the tiny gaps. If I can't move the nut I'll replace whole things I think. I have dampertech contact details already. Cheers.

I think my s7 has its original coilovers. I would like the raise the ride by about an inch if possible. Also I presume it has the overstiff springs in and it seems to be the opinion that around 130lb springs are best.

Question. The large nut won't budge! No sign of any locking grub screws. Any tricks anybody? To remove the spring I presume the top eye should unscrew? When I rotate it the whole thing rotates around the join between the large damper thread and base which goes up inside. Is this right? Probably basic questions for most of you. I may end up replacing with new ones but the bottom bolts are captured within the lower cross member so would need removal of rack and some metal cutting. Hoping to avoid that.

Thanks all. Pics attached hopefully!

Pm sent. Many thanks.

Not as south as me..or Lotuspaul. I've heard the metal is very hard. When I get round to it I'll warn him.Mates rates plus a beer I suspect.

P.s..however I would be silly not to take up your offer of details. Could you pm them to me? The other issue is I'm down south. Not many experts seem to live this way.

Hi Mower man. I'm absolutely sure you are right and it may well be on my to do list one day. I really have considered it i promise! My son's boss is happy to do the milling. He has done one before. Thanks anyway.

Thanks guys. Snapperpaul..that sounds a good and simple method. So you ended up with a flat section under the sump with basically a half round section?

My son has a holiday job from uni at a metal workshop. He is asking the boss who is into cars tomorrow. But many people seem to have gone this route so it should be possible. May have to pay for a few milling bits!

My Sierra based s7 has the original over stiff ARB. I have considered the tie bar option which is obviously ideal but skills/ time are limited. I'm going down the route of a thinner ARB and lighter springs but can anybody tell me the min thickness I should get the ARB milled down to? I think the 1300 Sierra was 21 mm so would that be best or dare I go thinner?

Tie bars may be a future winter project!

All done. Previous owner had used epoxy which had got into the thread. Very nice new leather gaitor fitted to go with the new handbrake one.

That was my conclusion but it won't budge. But now I know that's the method I'll be more aggressive and sacrifice it if have have to a buy a shiny new one.

Thanks.