BenGray

Ah, mines located at the very back, behind the diff… got it out eventually by cutting the left and centre boor supports out, will just have to fashion a bolt/weld on replacement….

Hi guys…. Hellllllllp!

I’ve been having running issues, and in a round about way have com to think it’s fuel starvation.

I disconnected the fuel input to the fuel rail and  turned o the ignition, I got a god spray for a couple of seconds, then it turned into a dribble.

took of the main fuel filter and pored out a certain amount of almost black fuel.

so, I decided to take the sender out of the tank and have a look…. Rust spots everywhere.

so… now i need the tank out, but am struggling to find a way to do it without taking off both rear wings and the rear panel.

so, my question are….

1) any tips on getting the tank out through the boot?

2) anyone ever had any success cleaning and lining a tank (like they do with old motorbike tanks.

3) should I just plump for an ally tank from kitspares?

4) any other advice you an give me… I’m slowly losing my mind and deasparately trying not to regret selling the bike to fund the car

cheers

ben

Hi everyone, sorry if I’ve stupidly missed a post that answers my question.

can anyone recommend where to get an engine loom from?

cheers

ben

Thanks richyb66, I’ll have a look.

I’ve read that the ignition timing can be/should be advanced by about 10deg, (I can’t even think where, and I might be wrong) is that something you alter at the dizzy cap (told you I was dim)

The distributor cap did seem to be out of position when I checked it, but how do I go about making sure it’s where it should be? I’m a bit of a numpty that’s trying to learn as i go

 Don’t think it, but at the point I’m at a loss. Header tank and rad are both well above te top of the block. How would you sort that?

Thanks for the idea

Hi all, help!

so I’ve got a 2b running a 2.0 Pinto (205) Efi engine.

it did seem to run ok, but boiled a lot. So I have replaced the rad with a nice shiny cooler one.

problem is, since then it refuses to run properly.

took it for a brief run on Monday, let idle up to temp before I started. It ran fine for a couple of minutes, then appeared to have a loss of power in 4th and 5th.

Eventually ground to a halt on me engine would turn on the starter, it’d catch, but then sound like it wasn’t getting fuel.

Put some more petrol (in case it was the gauge and I was out) but it just wouldn’t run.

eventually sound the distributor cap appeared lose and had moved. Related cap. Got it to start, but hunting horrible and terrible (read undriveable)misfire under any load, and hunting like mad at idle.

swapped the idle air valve for a new one that I had, made it even worse.

unplugged the idle air valve and wound in the throttle stop adjuster to give it some more fuel, and it seemed to run find at a standstill, revved cleanly on the throttle.

swaped back for my old (now cleaned and lubed) idle air valve, wound out the throttle idle adjuster screw, and hey presto, seemed to run again, then tried to actually drive it, got about 300 yards before hideous misfire (including spitting back through injector body)

I am now at a complete loss, and my pet mechanic (father in law works on busses and out farm equipment) can’t work out what’s causing it (then again he’s yet to experience the issue under load, as he hasn’t actually been in the car)

anyone got any idea what to look at next, any common things to be looking for?

sorry to sound terminally stupid, but you see, I am.

thanks, and sorry for the novel!

Probably far too late, but I just discovered that one of my flexi brake pipe brackets was about an inch and a half shorter than the other, and had to quickly make an extension, which then sorted the problem of the flex being too short on one side.

useless info I know, but proved quicker and far cheaper than getting a longer flexi made

yes, it’s sierra based, from a 2.0efi (estate as best I can make out)
 

I will try to upload some, but I’ve been struggling to get them under 100kb. Will have a go tomorrow.

thanks

ben

Hi Ian, thanks, but I think there are a few similitudes from what I can tell.

based around bore size 20 v 22.2, seal type and flange size, which is where I’m stuck.

I have seen some people have junked the servo nd gone with a narrower bore master cylinder, but I’d rather not have to replace brake lines at this point, although maybe something I’ll do in the future

Hi, loving being the owner of a 2b, not that I’ve had a real chance to use it yet though….

y brake master cylinder has failed, so I have front brakes, but no rears, and I’m struggling to find the right replacement

the cylinder has 74660862 and Q138 (I think) on the lhs

and

ABCDEGHJKLMN (then a circular logo (that I can’t make out)) .3. On the rhs.

I ordered the one that I thought it was, but when it arrived the mounting holes were approx 75mm apart, where as the one on the car has centres at around 95mm

Anyone got any ideas. I’m I being terminally daft (I can’t find a listing that has the mounting hole spacing on it)

thanks in advance for your help (it’s the last thing to do for this summer, it even passed the MOT as is)

cheersben

Thanks Ian, I've had a look, but can't see anything with the same end att he throttle body end. 

I've emailed kit spares to see if they have any idea

Hi guys..... Heeeeelp. 

I need a throttle cable, I've got a 2b based on (as far as I can tell) a 1987 Sierra 2.0 efi pinto lump. 

My throttle cable is officially dead,kit's got a weird sprung square end) and I'm really struggling to find a direct replacement (only one I've found online is £45 + 25 postage, what do other people use? 

Is there somewhere I should go for spares? 

Yes I'm that stupid

Hi, did this ever sell?