Brian75

Been asked about just the car so update on price, looking for: £4,500 for the car £5,250 for the car and all the spare parts.

Robin Hood 2B correctly registered on V5 Bought in 2022 with engine rebuild and various upgrades & new parts since First registered in 2002 based on Sierra running gear MoT until 23/8/25 2.0 OHC Pinto 205 block Head completely rebuilt in Oct 22 by Sprint Engines Ltd and fitted with FR32 cam New Weber 32/34 Carb fitted Feb 23 with K&N filter Bestek ignition Aug 23 Black rocker cover (with spare alloy cover) New Odyssey Extreme PC680 battery Jan 24 Automatic gearbox (with 2 manual gearboxes spare and other parts to convert if you wish - see spare parts list below) Full wet weather roof & doors Stormforce cover Mamba seats with Willans harnesses Removable Sparco steering wheel Kill switch 14” Dezent alloys fitted (with set of 15" Arrays spare) Radiator expansion tank New headlights Only used Valvoline VR1 20W-50 oil Very well built car in good condition Rear arches have some cracks and could be repaired Couple of spider cracks on the nose cone ***** Spare parts 1 * 4 speed Pinto gearbox with red housing - Ford part # 3038E 7505D 1 * 4 speed Pinto gearbox with black housing - Ford part # 3038E 7505D 2 * sets of pedals for manual gearbox Driveshaft 4 speed gearstick Alloy rocker cover Full set of Yamaha bike carbs (4 trumpets) with Pinto manifold - all in working order Spare set of bike carbs (2 trumpets) 2 * Bosch distributors Complete head with standard cam Full set of 15” Arrays alloy wheels & tyres Various other parts - flywheel, clutch disks, pulley, hubs, fuel regulator, valves I’ve had this rebuilt since buying it but just not using it as I thought and I’d like to move it on to someone who will use it. Can provide videos of the engine running. Ready to drive or convert to manual with bike carbs if you wish. £5,250 for everything Located Leamington Spa Brian 0747 789 2843

It's an original Lotus 7 chassis but looks like different parts of it have been rebuilt various times over the years - with bits from everywhere by the looks of it! I appreciate the help

Thanks Steve

Hi, can anyone identify what donor this hub is from. Looking for a nut to fit the centre. Measurement of 0.656 may be a little high as I've realised the guage isn't square

Thanks for the suggestions, much appreciated. I'll have a look at each to see if I can spot anything obvious

Hi everyone, Took my 2B out for a short run and noticed that the steering wheel isn't returning to the centre position after turning (left or right). I've been fixing it over time and haven't done many miles at all although this is a new behaviour, it wasn't doing it before. First instinct is that this is dangerous and needs to go to a garage but thought I'd ask here first if there is something obvious to look at. It has a removable steering wheel and the steering shaft has been refurbished. Any thoughts/ideas would be appreciated. Thanks.

Thanks guys, I appreciate the feedback. Yes Foz, I did test the new battery as well. However, I've just remembered that a few weeks ago the car got a right soaking and I haven't started it since - must have got water in the engine bay so it must be that causing a bad earth. I'll need to have a good look around it to see if there is anything obvious.

Hi everyone, Car has been running great after engine rebuild, new carb, bestek ignition etc and MoT in August. However, about 5-6 weeks ago I went to start it and got a couple of clicks on turning the key then nothing, not getting to turn over. Tested the battery and it was falling to 7v so have replaced this with a new Odyssey extreme. Tried again - cut off switch on, ignition light come on (hazards etc work), turn to start and get 1 click and ignition lights go out. Possibly the starter motor? Don't think its a fuse because it repeats, assuming it is electrical but I have no idea about electrics so any thoughts would be appreciated. Getting ready to sell it so obviously need to resolve this issue!

Thanks Steve, very useful.

About to have the first Winter with my car and I've recently had the thermostat changed so only have water in the system at the moment. I'm looking to prep the car for Winter and searching for the correct coolant so any advice would be appreciated. Engine is a 205 block from 1989 Sierra. I've read conflicting reports about blue v red and what is for older engines or what would damage them - bit confused at the moment! Also, any additional things to do? Car is outside and won't be used too much over the winter.

It is a standard manifold, yes, and looks about 12mm or 1/2" and servo hose is probably 6mm ID but need to check. Is the thread BSP or NPT?

Does anyone know where I can buy an adapter for the brake servo hose to inlet manifold?

Thanks Mahatma, that's what I've been advised of elsewhere as well. I was looking for something that was common to both gauges and it looks like this is the first place to look

Petrol and temperature guages not working on my 2B with pinto engine and Sierra loom. Doesn't look like they go through the fusebox but need to understand this as well. Any way of testing the sender units or other pointers before I take it apart?

Thats a good idea, thanks.

Thanks Russell, I hadn't thought to try them. Should've been the first place to look!

Can anyone recommend a fuel filter? I have a 2.0 pinto and have found everything from universal see through to various Bosch parts - any pointers would be appreciated.

I have the attached throttle lever on a Weber carb with 8mm ball end. Could anyone suggest a throttle cable or attachment to fit this? The standard Ford is smaller and weirdly Webcon/Fast Road Cars etc who supply this part don't seem to have anything suitable. It is a standard Weber part but I'm pulling my hair out trying to find this!

Thanks Richard, I'll have a look at that

Hi all, I have a 2B I've been fixing up over the last 5-6 months. I had a mobile mechanic who done some work but didn't know about bike carbs... Got them fitted and am at the point I have the car running but not comfortable doing the final carb set up required. It has a 2.0 pinto with CBR900 bike carbs and FR32 cam. The car starts fine and can tick over but a press of the accelerator causes a pop in the exhaust. Loads of pages out there saying its timing, it is rich, or lean, and that it can damage the engine, or that it won't. I'd just like to get someone who knows to get it set up right. I'm in Warwickshire (Leamington Spa) so any suggestions of people who could do this would be appreciated. The car is SORN'd at the moment so someone mobile ideally but I'll transport it if needed. I think I need: - check timing (previous mechanic said this was spot on but does it need changing because of the cam?) - air/fuel mixture set (tried the 2.5 turns and various back & forth adjustments - also fuel pressure regulator between 2/2.5/3 psi) - carb balance/idle set Once this is done I have a few minor things to do before looking at the MoT so don't think I'm too far away.

Yes, this is it, makes sense. Looks like it is upside down and they've fitted a filter where the drain should be, also the sight tube is nearer the top as fitted. Indicates its just an oil catch tank and not a separator which is the baffled type. Either way its coming off. Thanks for the help guys

Good point, I can't quite work out the logic of it.

I have this oil catch tank (or separator?) with 2 breather pipes connected (from crankcase and rocker). Looking at other tanks the pipes are connected to the top of the tank which seems to make sense initially as any build up of oil in this design would run back through the pipe. I'm wondering if this is the point (oil to run back and vapour to go to air) or does it need further looking at? I can't find any information on the brand and very little on tanks like these with bottom inlets - is this a separator in which case potentially a better solution? Any advice appreciated.

Yes, I've realised that from the photos above. It was actually my mechanic who fitted it!