GambolGold

This exhaust business aint easy. On the one I built, it seemed to go OK and up to when I sold it there were no obvious leaks or cracks. Agreed, the lengths are by no means equal. Getting a system made can be expensive, but I'm sure there are those among us who can advise companies with reasonable charges. Dave had a system made up for his bike-engines Dax, and that came out at a whopping £900 approx from Simpsons Racing Exhausts, but the pipe lengths were within 10mm. The original Dax system was not that brill - the primary pipes were 10 INCHES different 1 & 4. But I'm sure there are places one can get a system made much cheaper, the only problem being the close proximity of certain components in the Hood engine bay.

Best o luck.....

Pete

Yes, I've just been on eBay and some of the headers for sale are not simple shapes to fit under the robinhood bonnet.

I will keep my eyes and ears open and let everyone here know what I opt for.

In the mean time my original tubes are being fixed. Then while it is off it is going to have heat-wrap applied.

Nat

As Tim says neither is good, most would say poor not only are there any two pipes the same length but the plate used for the bolts to the head is far too thin and warps, them blows. I have never been able to get a good seal for more than a few hundred miles.

Thanks for your interest in this topic

This header runs 4 into 2 into 1 and then out through a hole in the body. It one cracked on three flanges: just the top on two and three, completely on four and number one remained ok.

The exhaust is held in two places: as it attaches to the exhaust ports anyway and again on rubber mounts on the body work back from the err, 'silencer' (ehem). So I imagine this unsupported mass over-stresses the flanges.

(The seals have been sound and perhaps this is because of the looseness due to the cracks)

I am tempted to take it to 'TubeTorque' - or the like - and get a quote for one made up, if the originals are quite poor, but thought I'd consider more inovative and economic solutions first.

Nat

HI

2l pinto has a Robin Hood header and I am not completely convinced it has been designed with balance in mind unsure.gif . Does anyone know any better than this? Can anyone recomend any which definately bow down to the laws of fluid dymanics biggrin.gif ?

Mine has just cracked - I think partly due to chugging in traffic que's.

Nat

Thats correct, just position them where you want the stroke of the rack to end.

 

I will have to strip mine down to take a pic. Will try later this eve.

 

John.

You don't have to go that far on my account - I know what putting those rubber boots back on is like. Thanks for the thought, Nathan

I did the same sort of thing as Nigel, then cut my polo mint into two halves , drilled and tapped so they clamp back together tight on the rack.

Result is I can adjust their position to give me all the steering lock I want.

In the pump industry we used to call them muff couplings, but thats another story

 

If you want a picture please ask.

I think I understand - cut like a polo-mint that has brocken into semicircular pieces, not one that is very thin. Then the two halves clamp together, around the end of the rack.

Did anyone go today, was there any bargins??

 

Is anyone from the northwest going tomorrow?

 

Mark

I'm going tomorrow from Stockport way, but on the way there stopping in Derbyshire to catch some of the Edinburgh Trial.

Regards,

Nathan

Ah the joys of overall file limit. I have posted many wireing diags etc so have to keep going back through posts and removing old pics. As below. Just a cylindrical polo but in mild steel not peppermint. Int dia is a few thou bigger than steering rack bar, ext dia same as ball joint cover on track rod end and width of whatever you need to limit the turn by, in my case half and inch wide.

 

Nigel

Thanks Nigel, that looks like the neatest way I can imagine.

The way I did it. Had a local engineering company machine up two steel cylinders as shown in the pic below. The ball joints on the tie rods screw off the ends of the rack. Push one cylinder on each end and I held them in place by spots of weld as shown.

 

Nigel

Hi, I have a Robin Hood 2b. Same trouble, the steering does not stop until the mud-guard touches the tie-rod. Could you please send the pictures of what you had made. what dimensions are they?

Regards,

Nathan