paolow

******* Update - I have now taken a deposit on this car so no longer for sale *********

********** Last reduction before it goes on ebay - £1750 ono *************************

REDUCED! £2,200 ONO!!! Just in time for the summer! £2,500 will buy you my 2B+ with wishbones and a 1.6 pinto engine. For reluctant sale due to a) me never driving it anymore and im moving house and the new one hasnt got a garage it uses the standard sierra clocks but ive got some capri ones i never got round to fitting - you can have these as well along with any other spares that are in my garage. I never got round to fitting the windscreen but this is asssembled and of course comes too. Its cheap! but for a couple of reasons: its not taxed or MOTd at the moment so obviously youd have to budget for this. It is almost capable of passing an mot - i checked it over and a couple of bulbs have blown (a headlight and a stop/tail) IIRC and also it needs a rod from the back of the handbrake to the cable actautor. (ive got various lengths of metal that can be used - im just too busy to devote too much time to it and besides - who needs a handbrake anyway If im completely honest it could do with a better rad fan - it uses an AX fan at the mo and this isnt really enough and it runs a little hot in traffic. if you look at the top of the N/S side panel you can see that its slightly kinked - this is due to an error on my part when i built it! Im sure a panel beater could fix this - but its never really bothered me at all. Also - the N/S wing is slightly off coloured - i dont know if you can make it out in the photos - ive still got the original paint though and this could be used to correct this. The reason for this is that the wing was clipped by a dozy woman in a silver astra which broke the GRP. i replaced it all but used an aerosol to paint it as my compressor was U/S. This also put a small dint in the back panel where the wing joins but were talking a very small dint and its never bothered me. Note that i use a proper RH petrol tank and not the huge sierra one! The engine is a 1.6 pinto with a 32/36 weber running on LRP. Its had a top end rebuild with new cam/spraybar/camshells and a thorough decoke. It runs incredibly well with virtually zero emissions! I think thats about it - any questions - send me a pm or call on 077 4341 0227 I am based in Bromley, South East london Paul

thanks again for all the continued help everyone, ive been looking at the cost/benefit of buying a load of jets compared to a rolling road and, though I do know Sanspeed well, its gonna have to wait as i cant stretch to almost £100 the carb, i believe is in good order and the jets are clear so ill probably experiment with leaning it off and seeing where that gets me. that would seem the best place to start and its not too much for a few jets to tinker with. also, youre absolutely right rizla, its high time i was a member, so i definitely will at last be a paid up member! as a side note, the butterflies indeed dont close at the same time, so well spotted there! its not out by much, but if its enough for me to see with the naked eye, its something else i can rectify to help things along. im going to order the jets now, ill report back at the next step! thanks again.

well, heeding rizla and big jims advice i tightened down my carb and also cut 20 mil off my vacuum hoses and then refitted them to get rid of the perished bits. i can only say WOW! honestly, when i first took it out the engine revved so cleanly and so fast i thought my clutch was slipping! is there anything you guys dont know about pintos? thanks also for the tips steve and pete, im not 100% the timing is where it should be, ill have to get out the strobe and check, any ideas for a benchmark? im in bromley, SE london pete, whys that? what im thinking of doing is getting a 145 and a 135 jet and just playing around with the sizes a little for a bit of fine tuning. interestingly, even though it runs cleanly now, it will still surge forward when i back off the throttle for about half a second. i cant figure that one out. any ideas? thanks again for the top advice everyone, not only did it fly but it sounded so much healthier too. and to think it would otherwise have been £100 and a rolling road, when it was 10 mins and free. i owe you all a beer!

thanks for the tips guys, ill get out there and check whats what. as well as looking for tightness ill also replace those ropey vacuum hoses and see if that helps. hmm, thats an idea, ill also chech to see if the advance on the dizzy is working while im at it. ill let you konw how things develop thanks again

can anyone help? ive a standard 2.0 pinto powered 2b but running with a 38 dgas which i where i think my probs may lie. its got 140 primaries, 45 idles and standard 2 litre pumps. the trouble is that below about 3k revs its really grouchy under acceleration. cruising at these revs is ok but if i boot it the engine sounds like it drops a cylinder, and, while it sounds like my cars got F1 style traction control, it gets tiring having to deal with it! it doesnt matter if i crack it to WOT or just accelerate gently, the problem occurs no matter what and seems to be really started off when i open the throttle by any amount. interestingly, when i open it up and it grumbles, just when i shut the throttle (when i get to the top of a hill for instance) the car will surge forward for half a second before deceleratiion. ive had the plugs out and ive never seen whiter! surely then my problems are caused by an overly weak mix? am i barking up the right tree? i could rolling road the car but for that price i could buy every single jet there is and still save money so im keen to try and learn a little about why it is behaving like it is, rather than just get someone else to fix it. my current thoughts are that the mains might need beefing up to 147 or 150, but will that really make a difference in low speed running? all the jets are clear and the carb seems to work ok (ie) pump jets all pump etc, its a cracking car, but just not very tractable at lower revs. thanks in advance

cheers for that terry - ill dust off my overalls and head into the garage....

can anyone make any suggestions? when turning over i have a good spark from the coil, but, when i connect the dizzy up, i get noting coming through. the points are gapped correctly so does that leave the condenser to be changed? what does a condenser do? is there a way i can bridge it and try running without it? is there anything i may have missed? many thanks. oh yeah - sorry, dizzy cap, rotor arm and ht leads have all been checked and are, as far as can be seen, ok.

i know just the noise you mean. my engine does it too - but there is a difference. my head was completely rebuilt about 100 miles ago with dipped head, new camshells, new camshaft, rockers, lapped valves, the whole works. engine has been professionally timed and tuned and the clatter it produces is awful! sounds very tappety, but the gaps are correct. very strange. therefore, its possible that changing your shaft may not be the answer as mine still makes a racket even with a new one!

when i took my hood in to be motd i got chatting to the thoroughly great tester and he lent me a big valeo radiator book for me to go through and see if theres a rad that might do a better job than that which is supplied by RHE. what i did was to measure the space next to the steering shaft and from top to bottom to try to identify a rad that might fit vertically in the space for better air flow. well, i was successful - there were a number of matches, so i noted them all down for the rest of you guys in case any of you were thinking about changing rads. importantly the book also had illustrations highlighting the inlet/exit hose locations so hopefully there should be straightforward hose routing as well! anyway - heres the list: Valeo part number: 730152 Car: Vauxhall cavalier mk1 (75-81) 1.6 Size: (W/H in mm) 330/330 Valeo part number: 730172 Car: Rover mini 60-83 1.0 Size: (W/H in mm) 250/270 Valeo part number: 730261 Car: Nissan sunny 82-86 1.1 Size: (W/H in mm) 340/330 Valeo part number: 730411 Car: Honda civic 1.3 79 -84 Size: (W/H in mm) 310/320 Valeo part number: 731171 Car: E class merc 93-95 2.0 Size: (W/H in mm) 340/290 Valeo part number: 731285 Car: Nissan micra 1.0 93 on Size: (W/H in mm) 370/380 Valeo part number: 810933/810926 Car: Renault 5 1.4 81-85/Renault 5 GT turbo Size: (W/H in mm) 290/440 / 310/390 Valeo part number: 819201 Car: E class merc 84-95 2.3 Size: (W/H in mm) 370/410 Valeo part number: 882895 Car: Audi 80 73-77 1.3 (I think) Size: (W/H in mm) 340/430 hope this is of some help to someone!

well, today i came back from my local VRO with my bits and bobs and went straight to my local motor factors. my car now has plates, tax insurance - everything. in fact, the moment id been working toward for 2 years is now here. i have actually, with my own two hands, MADE a car! BUT, i couldnt have done it without the help and support from the people on this site - a couple spring to mind - but i wont swell their heads! suffice to say i owe all of you a huge debt that i hope to repay, at least in part, by offering advice to other builders as you have me. in short - thank you all, and thanks too to Richard for not only providing the means to make my dream happen, but also in providing support all through my build. i havent driven it far yet, but, driving to my mot in school run traffic to the tune of a hundred mums saying "look at the race car!" to their kids will stick with me for a looooooooong time. so in short, Thank you all.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...7906328351&rd=1 just spotted this on ebay if anyones interested. i say its cheap because its listed as a de - gas carb rather than dgas. i cant imagine anyone would deliberately search for that! its jetted for a 2.1 and has filter and manifold. typically tho i bought my own dgas less than a week ago!

hi guys, im after some jetting tips. i know the subject of jet sizes has been covered to some length before, but what i really need to know is what size bits and bobs the standard 38 dgas has so that i dont end up with more parts than i need! its going on a stock 2 litre and im going for 140 primaries, f50 emulsions, 185 air correctors, 45 idles and 70 pump jets. however, i suspect (perhaps incorrectly) that the emulsions at least are the same in the standard. or maybe i should get new ones anyway to make sure everything is shiny and working well? any tips would be gratefully recieved!

wicked - cheers owen

hi guys, can anyone help? my old 32/36 is pretty knackered and id like to upgrade to a rejetted 38 dgas. ive been offered one but it has no linkages etc. can i use my existing 32/36 linkages? many thanks

wow - thats handy - could you post details of this co please neil?

YHM

i am indeed rob. i have also long since binned the rear springs. funnily enough i didnt even think about it when assembling the car - i suppose i only weigh about ten stone so didnt even think about it.

thanks for all the replies everyone, the springs im currently using are off (i think) the front of a boggo 1.8 sierra lx. i also have 2 other sets but bizzarrely, under close inspection i seem to have 4 different springs - none seem to be pairs! ride height is pretty good - ive got a good 6 inches under the side panel and 4 fingers height under teh subframe location bolts. the springs are however, just too soft - static, the spring moutns are nowhere near the axles but that soft that a burly SVA examiner on the back makes it 'bottom out'. interestingly, fred - it was suggested that 'air bags' WOULD be a suitable fix - so thats one idea, but, if im going to fix it, i want to do it properly and just whack in some stouter springs rather than go the balloon route. Also - many thanks for the offers of springs - what im going to do is see what my movements are going to be in the next few days and see where im going to be before paying one of you a visit! Thanks again for all your help and kind offers.

well - i took my 2b for its retest at gillingham today and it failed on the very final retest point. the problem? the springs ive got in the back are too soft so that the mcpherson strut makes friends with the driveshaft with enough weight on the back. ive rung around and the best that i can find are a pair of estate struts from a scrappy for £50. however, im reluctant to spend twice the price of my doner on a pair of struts, especially if i dont know for sure if theyll do the job. my question then is, what sierras have ultra tough springs and also - i understand that RHE now have rear coilovers - maybe less of a headache? but ive split the rear tube to get the strut in - am i stuck with butchered MCP struts for ever? any advice gratefully recieved - im so close now!

i disliked the RHE clips to such an extent they were quickly relegated to opening tins of paint/general leverage duties. i use the rubber overcentre clips which i distrust (but are sva compliant) and a big old strap that i think does the job perfectly.

footman james should be able to sort you out - i also am very young, albeit with no points but with no no claims. quote was £300.

wow! so now we know - nice work guys.

thanks for the advice jim - ill do as you suggest and also see if i can get the information for the build tips section. well, i tried after a lot of looking around my local motor factors failed to come up with a match. in the end i just sent off for the ones from lolocost. saves more running around anyway.