flameredturbo

Better picture

As picture, fully working. £15+£5 post

If you fit a floor mounted pedal box like I had to, give yourself plenty of time, it's been the single most difficult job in my conversion. You'll have to cut into the bulkhead at the footwell which if slanted is hard, (impossible with an engine in the bay) you'll have to drill and bolt it to the floor pan ofcourse which is also a challenge due to space and the stainless steel mine is made from. Then! You'll have to modify the pedal box to allow for clutch and throttle cable, the best part is you'll not know if it works till the engine is in either!

Thanks Nigel, do you think it will get as hot as that? The ITB set up connects to the inlet manifold on silicone pipes so won't conduct the heat directly from the head.

Thanks!

I have no plans on shortening the sump, it's no lower than the anti roll bar at the back and that never grinds, I need to mount the engine quite high as I have an up and over manifold. I'm aware I need to hack away some to allow me to fit the starter though.

I was thinking today how short mine is, no need to shorten on my case!

So sensor would be exposed here somewhere.

Is this a suitable place to put my air temp sensor? I'll drill a hole and bolt it in. If not where have others put them?

This is normal apparently!!!

The full size one fits under my induction set up using the kit.

I've just played about with the pedal box again, my pedals are at more like 11 o'clock, not got the throttle one in yet as I need to cut a part of the pedal away to stop it fouling and I'll do it in one hit when the itbs are in place I think I'm going to connect to cables together and be done with it.

The alt fitting kit is great! Only thing is though they make it look like it comes with the pulley to reverse the water pump, it doesn't! To me it's not a kit if you still need parts!

What bits you ordered?

Seen loads of old posts about these and poor fitment, it seemed rally design knew about the problem etc. These posts are a couple of years old now so I'm wondering if anyone had bought these recently and how they got on with them. It's the cortina ones I'd be needing.

The clutch eyelet pivots nicely will be perfect with a bit of grease. The throttle will be a simple up and down motion. I've made up the brake pipes today too, I'm going to have to fit a hydraulic inline brake light switch though as there's no way on this planet I'm going to be able to use the original switch. Stops could be made with a long bolt I guess, easy to adjust too.

Thanks, I'll tackle the throttle when the engine is settled into the bay, once the lump is bolted in I've got a funny feeling things are going to be smooth!

Pedal box progress, I know there won't be an exact distance but what kind of travel is required in the cable to function the clutch? Will the clutch hold enough spring to return the pedal?

I can feel a bit of flex I must admit, I forgot to move it to when I cut the bulkhead today and took a chunk out of it! I think I'm going to get away with re using the cables, I'm going to mimic the original set up as much as possible.

I was pretty chuffed that it was a nice fit especially after the bitch of a morning id had with the pedal box! That's in place and there's plenty of room to plumb in the brake pipes.

This is going to be fun and games!!

Thought I'd go for a trial run space wise. The alternator doesn't foul the steering column, the thermostat housing fits perfectly once I relocate the brake pipes! Fits under the bonnet with ease!!

Progress update The retro ford altenator kit fits nicely under the Danst inlet manifold.

You twisted your ankle today I've serious crushed my finger! Like your work! Looking forward to you helping out with my mounts! Ps. I'm never going to race you!

Good point on the filter king, it will be for my carb set up so not suited! Another thing for sale then and another thing on my shopping list! Thanks again.