Andy Spencer

We're going Dover Calais at 2030 on Thursday night. If the car makes it to Dover!!!!!!! Andy

Kieran Don't shorten the frames down - I made that mistake. The bracket should be fitted near to the end of the 'longer' piece of frame. Then fit the 'smaller' frame inside the larger one and bolt through at the end of the small frame. If you don't do this, the larger frame will not sit high enough to keep the roof tight. It's a bit difficult to explain, pm me if you want further details. Andy

Anyone know of a good deal for European Breakdown Cover for the Hood? Only need it for a few days when we go to Le Mans. RAC/AA etc seem very expensive as they go on the age of the donor and penalise heavily - nearly £100 for a week Any ideas welcomed - I've tried my insurer Sureterm direct and they can't help. Andy

On my Mk1 S7 you do not use the bushes. The subframe is bolted directly to the tub and the bushes become redundant - are you sure you have not got this? On my MOT I always have to explain this and I have, in the past, taken the build manual in with me to show them how it should be put together! Longboarders mod looks highly sensible though, may adopt that myself at some point..... Andy

Tell me about it!!! Just spent days trying to work out my fuel starvation problem, and it was an inline filter. Even if you are unsure, change them anyway, because that's how I sorted mine even though it looked OK. Andy

http://community.rhocar.org/index.php?show...t=0entry59257 Have a look at this thread from last week. Andy

Have you seen this? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...4550971217&rd=1 NTDWM etc. Andy

New Forest is great and its near the coast. Know some good campsites / B&B's. Andy

OK get ready to have a laugh...... it was a blocked fuel filter (even though it didn't look like it). Blocked up with crud from the tank in 1200 miles (mine's an early S7) on the underside so you could not really see it, just presumed that because it was full of fuel it was OK. Pump just could not deliver at the rate required through it. £1.99 and I'm back on the road. At least now I've got a new fuel pump, coil, plug leads, rotor arm, dizzy cap and plugs!!!!!! Lesson learned. Andy

I live near Leicester as well (nr Ashby) so if its not too far could pop in sometime, bit busy this weekend working on mine but maybe next week. PM me if you want. I did a top end rebuild last year. Andy

If (and only if) IJW does not want the amplifier unit itself, I'd like it please, mine is on the blink, have sent you a PM. Andy

There's been various threads on this before. The splined bolts can be reused but you have to retorque them after running the engine for 15 minutes. With the torx bolts you do not have to do this, you torque them up, leave them for 15 minutes and then turn them 90 degrees. As previously correctly mentioned, you need to replace the torx bolts every time. Andy

All I've volunteered my services as the area secretary for Leicestershire! The first area meet will be on Sunday 3rd July from 1930 onwards at the Belper Arms, Newton Burgoland, Leicestershire. www.belperarms.co.uk for directions etc - lots of parking, good beer and food. We can decide that evening how often we want to meet and organise some runs out as well. I'll post something nearer the time to get an idea of numbers. Once I get access permission I'll put the dates into events and calendar. Look forward to your support and to meet everyone. Lets hope I don't break down on the way there this time!!! Andy

I'm going to use a local stainless steel fabricators - it will cost a fraction and they will turn it around quickly. Andy

I changed my valve stem seals last year because of a smoky engine. Alas, when I restarted it a few times after, it still smoked a bit, but it soon sorted itself out after a run or two. Absolutely no smoke at all now! Good luck. Andy

I did not fit the pressure regulator - it was a standard fit on the 1.6 with the 28/30 DFTH carb. I assumed that because it's been running well for nearly 9 years with it, that it was OK, but will try bypassing it later. Andy

I do have a return to the tank, the fuel pump supplies a pressure regulator, which sends fuel to the carb and a return to the tank. I've taken it off and if you pressurise the feed, it opens the return whilst still supplying to the carb, so I don't think that's faulty. Andy

OK getting desperate now. Story so far: - changed fuel pump, checked pressure regulator, cleared all fuel lines, checked for debris / sealant in tank (got 2 in line filters anyway, one after sender, one just b4 carb) - checked all vacuum connections - tank is well vented - not electrical as strobe still flashes when it cuts out - carb is nearly new 28/30 Weber DFTH (1500 miles) - it will start and run fine, cuts out pretty much as soon as full throttle applied - will restart a couple of minutes later - can drive it for ages if only very light throttle applied (got it home when it originally failed, 20 miles) - oil is clean, no emulsification - rad water is not oily I do notice when I rev the engine to 2 - 3000rpm in the garage for 30 seconds or so, I do get a 'vapour' coming out of the oil filler cap, but crankcase breather is working, engine has not and does not smoke, rattle, or use oil, runs very sweetly until it cuts out. Might do a compression test tonight but surely if it was something major it would be smoking and rattling? I don't need this a few weeks before Le Mans when I've got wheel bearings, front brakes and a few other jobs to do before we go - and only a couple of free weekends! Any ideas welcomed. Kettle is on if anyone is near. Andy :boohoo: :boohoo: :boohoo:

I picked up a 2 litre pinto and got it into the back of a Vectra easily, then drove it 100 miles home. I put it on a small wooden pallet picked up from a local DIY shed (with their permission!), and used some polystyrene to stop it moving round too much. 3 of us lifted it in / out without too much bother. Andy

I've just done it, dead easy, get a spare driveshaft from a scrappy (take old one with you as they differ) takes about an hour. Don't forget they are handed as well, mine had failed because it was hitting the body, so check yours for this. PM me if you want further details. Andy

Tank's definitely vented, and its not blocked. :gdit: :gdit: :gdit:

Broke down on way to Stoneleigh this morning. Started up again after a while, keeps cutting out (totally, not even misfire) when you run it on high throttle, sounds like air is rushing in somewhere (could be air intake that you can hear when engine not firing though), when you back off it stops doing this (erratically) after a while, then it will start again. Sometimes lasts for ages. Originally thought it was fuel starvation, changed the fuel pump this afternoon, checked the fuel pressure regulator, fuel level still a bit low on filter near carb but I'm sure its not this. Took tank sender off, not blocked in any way, then there's a filter before the main fuel line. Checked all manifold air hoses, all seem fine. Could it be the servo? Is there a diaphragm in there? Otherwise maybe it is fuel starvation but where next? Any ideas most welcomed. Andy

Bl***y thing broke down on the way there this morning.......gutted!! Hope you all had a good time. See thread in engine. From a confused Andy.

Ouch. £150!

If you remove your thermostat it will take forever to get hot - which will not do it much good. If you have an auto choke it will stay on for ages as well. No idea on the timing I'm afraid! Andy