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I'm Cracking Up


Guest micky bigthumbs

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Guest micky bigthumbs

Checking the oil leak and trying to change the steel nuts and bolts ..to get rid of the rust from driving in the sea and all year on the road i've found this it seems to be the only one so far :( ...looks like viewing the NW website to see how big jim fixed his :(

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Guest docter fox

I'm cracking up too :boohoo:

 

found a crack in the corner of the engine bay where i understand to be the usual place?

 

but also another, just behind the anti roll bar in the middle of the engine bay, where the engine mounts bolts on, any body else found this?

 

any tips for re-plating would be appreciated :)

 

I also noticed some type of sealant that runs along the bottom on the sides of the engine bay, is this on all of them or just mine?

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Guest docter fox

I have "misplaced" the camera at the moment, I've drawn a pic but I'll have a good look for it after

 

1: anti roll bar

2: crack that goes for just over an inch and the rearmost side is being pushed down with the weight of the engine, it's also cracked on the folded down part

3: a crack originating from the corner

4: engine mounts

 

I'm unsure on what how to weld it up, guessing angle iron would be better than just plate? just run along the inside edge of the engine bay for crack 2?

 

unfortunately I can't seem to find the thread picturing how Big Jim welded up his corner cracks (1?) :ph34r:

post-3-1144658599.jpg

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Guest chris brown

Misplaced the camera "lost you mean"

Draws a picture and labels it with two "2's" and no "1" but refers to "1" as being the anti roll bar and this is the man that gets at us older members. :gdit: :gdit: :p :p

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Guest docter fox

I've never had very neat writing, be it on paint or otherwise :wub:

 

for those of you going blind with old age, the botton left bit of scribble is a number one :p :lol: :D

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James, your crack 1 is at a point of fairly obvious high stress with the stiff bulkhead behind, engine weight on the less stiff floor pan and a sharp corner concentrating the stress in one point. When its repaired you also need to put in a plate to round of that corner.

Crack 2 is probably due to the builder leaving a little nick for it to start from in the area he weakened by relieving for the ARB. Long piece of angle needed.

 

Micky, the crack is in the heat weakened area at the edge of the weld and my feeling is that it is probably the flexing due to the weight of the bumper bar which is bolted to the floor pan not suspension stresses. I would simply weld up and remove the bumper.

 

Nigel

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Guest docter fox

in the case of number 2, if I were to weld some 1 inch angle all the way along (green bit) I'd have to cut a bit away to fit over the ARB, if i rounded the cut would it still have enough strength in it?

 

PS. is that better chris?

post-3-1144672055.jpg

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Thats what I would do for crack one. For two you still don't want to relieve the reinforcement over the ARB. You should also extend it as far as the bulkheads. I would look at possibly lowering the ARB mountings or even better getting rid of it and fitting tie rods. Then look at using box section under the floor and up against the downturn flange.

 

Nigel

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Guest micky bigthumbs

Nigel i dont think the bumper bar had much to do with the crack the car did have a bump on the drivers wheel which i repaired and fixed a crossbar a bit further back you can see the three nuts where the anti roll bar stub fits..i think its related to the bump

 

Mick

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