S7 Rear Wheel Camber

[Big Jim]

The kit is not designed for you to run 205 tyres, 185 or 195 max. if you want to run bigger tyres or wheels, then you sort out the problems.

As to the camber of the rear wheels, the wheels on Tiger and the other manufacturers who use the Sierra back axles, have the same camber, it can vary slightly, as it does from model to model on Hoods.

the problem with making the spacers is the time to make them, and therefore cost, if the job was costed out properly, then I doubt that you or anyone else would bother with them.

[Guest nick coram]

I'll try to investigate having some of these made myself, I am making the following assumptions. Please correct me if any are wrong.

 

1./ The material can be Ally as it is only used in compression and is easer to machine.

2./ The holes do not have to be accurate and can be cut oversize with lots of clearance to allow an easy fit.

3./ The angle should be 1 deg so that multiple shims can be used to achieve the desired correction angle.

4./ A reasonable qty to have produced would be 30, enough for 7 people with an average of 4 per person (to obtain 2deg correction, mine looks like it needs at least that). This is around the minimum quantity that most engineering firms would consider.

 

Since I see 3 people including myself on this current thread looking to obtain some, that would leave 4-5 sets to go on the for sale pages and my betting is that they would go like hotcakes if the price is right.

 

What do you think a reasonable price would be?

[Guest Daren.F]

I am looking for some shims, but I require a correction to toe in as well. the shims will have to taper diagonaly to achieve this.

Has any one got a pattern with dimentions to manufacture from to save me the time of removing the hubs etc.

My mate, who is going to make them said ally might clog the mill so would be better in steel.

If he can produce them quickly he may be able to make a few.

Daren

[Guest nick coram]

Daren,

is the toe in a consequence of the swing arm angle and hence common to us all or do you have a unique situation?

 

I have not atempted to mesyre rear toe in and wouldent know how.

 

PS I dont have accurate dimentions but if enough clearence is allowed ti could be mesured in situe.

[Guest Mike Perry]

Nick

The idea of going for 1 deg. shims is a great one; thus allowing some flexibility of how much correction of the camber, and giving each builder their own choice.

 

I would also be interested in a set if anyone was to manufacture them. unfortunately I do not have access to that type of engineering facilities.

 

Mike

[Longboarder]

Darren, where have you managed to find a rear toe figure from , what should it be and what is yours set at please.

 

Nigel

[Guest Daren.F]

Rear Toe in should be max 1mm according to Mr Haynes( I can not find the reference in Haynes903 but 1mm is specified on cars that have rear toe adjustment),

I have 4mm measured by setting up two string lines parralel to the car and measuring from the string to the rim of each tyre.

I attach a piece of timber to the grill at the front and to the spare wheel carrier at the back the strings are the tied to the timber, the string must be at the centre line of the wheel and be perfectly parralel to the car and other string.

Fuel load is specified and driver and pasenger load should be simulated (bags of sand 38Kg each)

This is obviously not as acurate as a full garage set up but it gives a good indication.

Daren

[Peter Bell]

Hi Darren are you sure that the rear toe in figure is for a rear drive car? I would expect it to be either 0 or possibly toe out so as when the wheels are under power it will tend to pull them straight.

Peter.

[Longboarder]

Darren, I would suggest you replace the trailing arm bushes with hard polybush items. Then get the angles measured on accurate kit used by someone who knows what they are doing so you know where you are at. Toe in at the rear tends to give a nice stable ride and increases understeer. Toe out is twitchy but turns in hard with oversteer. But drive it and only change it if it feels wrong, not because one of its vital statistics doesn't quite measure up.

 

Nigel

[Guest Daren.F]

We have a ford main dealership and have cheched the toe-in in the garage, the figures are the same.

I suspect either crash damage has bent the suspension or the car is set so low that it is effecting the toe in.

The problem I have is that if I take the car in to the garage the muppets start to play with the 2b and mess up something else, its easier to fiddle around at home.

Toe in on rear tyres should be 0mm-1mm max according to the afore mentioned muppets.

Daren

[ibrooks]

If they start doing things you haven't asked for then I'd suggest you are taking it to the wrong garage.

 

I'd always be very wary of somewhere that employs muppets anyway.

 

 

How difficult is it to set up the guages? could you do a series of measurements with a jack under the diff to increase the ride height? I'd also suggest replacing the rear bushes if they look at all old as they could be causing the discrepancy. After that I'd say check everything is in good shape and drive it - if it feels wrong or does strange things then look to change it but until then you may only be causing a problem for later by changing something that you have been told is wrong but actually isn't.

 

 

 

Iain

[Big Jim]

looking at longboarders post, he suggests replacing the bushes with "polly" ones, I had a bad incident with these on the Hood. I replaced all of the bushes on the front suspension with the yellow polly bushes (from Rally design) Everything was great, the front end was much more "positive" but after about 12 months (less than 6000 miles) just as I got back from a run around Wales, and was putting it back into the garage, one of the front tie bars snapped where it goes into the bush. On further investigation, all the bushes were worn, allowing movement where there shouldn't have been. Neadless to say I wasn't impressed. I junked the rest of them, and fitted heavy duty originals, (no problems since) I certainly wouldn't fit them again. Has anyone else had any experience with them?

[Longboarder]

Funny you should say that Jim, but I've had polly swingarm bushes in for a couple of years. I don't do the mileage you do. They are sierra parts and due to the design they shouldn't wear (stainless inner tube clamped between the mounting brackets so it should not move). They made as much of an improvement as fitting your shims did so the rear suspension on mine is very well located and free of rear wheel steer etc.

Do you think yours failed through fatigue or wear reducing the strength of the tie bar. Hard bushes would increase stress in suspension components compared to Mr Fords soggy ones but my front is all on hard 'nylon' type bushes anyway (double wishbone Ser 111). However I would have thought the rears at least could take a bit of extra stress. Built like a Battleship, etc. Still, a bit worrying all the same.

 

Nigel

[Big Jim]

It was the front that I fitted them to, (same car, mark 3) like I said, they were brilliant at first, but I didn't expect them to be knackered after only 5 - 6000 miles. The whole lot was only fit for the bin. I renewed the whole suspension after that, ball joints, track control arms (uprated, £12 each, incl bushes!) & tie bars. and believe me, it's done some mileage since!

[Guest timswait]

There's an easier way to get more even tyre wear on the back than adding shims: Drive it harder!! The harder you corner the more the tyre will tend to roll on the rim and the more it will tend to wear the outside of the tyres, so the camber actually helps put more rubber on the road, so improving grip. Just look at the amount of camber an F1 car runs.