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Rear Suspension


Greenie

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  • 2 weeks later...
Guest Tim Norman

I still maintain that just mounting the diff higher will do the same as using the wedges and for free. If you have used the two bolts to mount the diff at the back, take them out and use the top hole in the plate with the bottom hole in the diff. problem solved, £25.00 plus P&P saved.

 

Feel free to ignore me, everybody else usually does, it was the same story with anti roll bars, everybody said RH's don't need one, I said otherwise. Now even cateringvans and westiedogs have them.

 

It's your car, your money, :p

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Guest chris brown
I still maintain that just mounting the diff higher will do the same as using the wedges and for free. If you have used the two bolts to mount the diff at the back, take them out and use the top hole in the plate with the bottom hole in the diff. problem solved, £25.00 plus P&P saved.

 

Feel free to ignore me, everybody else usually does, it was the same story with anti roll bars, everybody said RH's don't need one, I said otherwise. Now even cateringvans and westiedogs have them.

 

It's your car, your money, :p

We wouldn’t ignore you Tim even when your wrong :wub: :wub: (thats me black listed) :p :p

Unless you are using drive shafts with only one CV joint on the inner end (like early WV's, Mercs of the 50's-60's and Triumph heralds to name but three) then no matter how much you lift the diff all you will do is put more angle into both inner and outer CV joints and not alter the angle of the wheel at all that is dictated by the trailing arms.

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but chris, if you move the diff higher, you also move the position of the rear of the beam.

The camber problem exists because the rear trailing arm system is a compromise in the sierra, too much camber when compressed, too little when extended.

You have to remember the trailing arms are not on a single pivot point perpendicular to the length of the car. They pivot at an angle, allowing this camber change.

In hoods, they run lower ride heights, so we get some extra camber. If we all ran sierra-like ride heights, we would not have a problem, other than looking like we were driving hot rods / tractors.

Raising the rear of the beam effectively gives more distance between the diff and the trailing arms, therefore reducing the excessive camber.

 

Well, that is how my mind worked it out at stupid o'clock in the morning. I'll re-read this later, see if it still makes sense!

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Guest salty_monk

But Tim's not moving the rear of beam upwards, he's just moving the back of the diff so I don't get that....

 

I'm with Chris, if only the diff moves then all you can do is change the angle of the joints.

 

I've not needed the wedges on either of my cars, they're not that low but.....

 

Dan :)

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Guest Tim Norman

Well it worked on mine. As the back of the diff is mounted higher it does pull the beam up as the diff is mounted to the beam, as the whole back end is only mounted at three points. As I said earlier each to their own.

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Tim is right. I looked at doing this to my second 2B but I have welded on some U brackets to better attach the outer trailing arm pivot points to the chassis and these limited the movement of the tube.

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Guest salty_monk

Oh I see, you're tilting it upwards at an angle. The two bolts are only about an inch different though so is that enough to make a marked difference??

 

I still don't get how it affects the wheel camber though as the CV's would still take on a different angle to compensate.

 

I haven't looked under a hood for a few months, forgotten what it looks like! :rolleyes: :lol:

 

Do you have a NIGELGRAM handy??

 

Dan :)

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