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Wheel Wont Stay Down, Help ?


Guest vacinc

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Guest timswait

Not necessarily too much of a problem, RWD cars will sometimes lift their front inside wheel like FWD will sometimes cock their rear inside. If you want to stop it you need to fit either stiffer springs or an anti roll bar (particulary rear). I think the mod to lengthen the dummy mcpherson strut would also help by raising the roll centre of the car and so reducing it's tendency to roll.

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A few bits to check....

Rear springs could be too soft....

Rear shockers could be set too soft

Front shockers could be set too hard on rebound

Front droop on the wishbones could be jamming on the top ball joint before

the spring is fully extended.

 

But unless the outside tyre is slipping badly, not too much of a problem.

Take a look at piccys of early escorts, cortinas, falcons etc...they all waved a wheel at the crowds.

 

HTH Bob

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Guest Ian & Carole

Like Bob says not really a bad problem.

 

One of my Mk1 Escort Twincams three wheeled about 6-8" and never felt unstable or unsafe.

 

Never sorted it, but always felt that it would not go any quicker if I spent hours trying to change what seemed to handle well.

 

On airfield stages in the 70's needed a Porsche, TR8, etc to catch my stage times, they could blow me away in the straight bits but would soon reel them in again when it got twisty. :o :rolleyes:

 

Oh happy days.

 

Ian J

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Guest chris brown

With the amount of compression you have on the loaded wheels I suspect the springs are rather on the soft side. What are you running? Most seem to think 325 lb on the front with around 300 on the rear works well, also wind the damping rate up a few clicks for track use. That is assuming you have adjustable dampers. If you are still running on zimmers then my advice would be to change them especially if you are going to use it on track as they have been known to break on normal (not over enthusiastic) driving.

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Guest timswait

Stiffening the dampers won't make a huge difference to this, they only effect the transient response, ie as you hit a bump or as you turn into a corner. What's happening here is under sustained loading throughout the corner, which is pretty much entirely down to the springs. By all means try it as it doesn't cost anything, it might improve turn in, but it will still lift around sustained corners.

P.S.

i think ill wined them up a bit ?

Get them on the whisky instead, it's stronger ;)

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Piffle and codswallop about springs and dampers. It's clear from the pictures you were driving furiously and should slow down to a more gentlemanly pace.

 

Nigel

 

p.s. Question for enforcer. Is there still an offence of 'Driving a motor vehicle furiously'.

correct, playing a game of catch up with the escort (i lost ) . i was amazed at the amount of body roll in the picture (3rd gear ,60 to 70) , ps the cars damper are quite hard,

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Guest timswait

I also like the idea on an anti roll bar, but I think if you fit one to the front you'll also need one on the back or would just get a shed load of understeer. I think some Sierras had rear ARBs, so may be able to use one of them. Will also need substantially softer springs, but overall it should improve the car, be able to run softer overall rates so have improved ride and less twitchy over bumps, but still have reduced body roll and more overall grip, in theory win win.

P.S. Nigel: you sounded pretty furious in the video after your disagreement with the tyre wall. ;)

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Guest Tim Norman

I've been advocating anti roll bars on Hoods for years only to be told to shut up coz I was talking rubbish.

 

I've said it before and I will continue to. These cars need an anti roll bar at the front. They only stiffen the ride when one wheel comes under load ie when cornering. Bobson will get one when I can source on the right size. My previous car had one from a reliant Robin and that worked a treat.

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