Fitting Header Tank!

[Guest joe_g40]

Hi guys, i am very new to this kit car experience. I have recently bought a rh s7 2ltr pinto. The car was fine and cooling was normal until i took it on a track day. obviously having all of the chassis and inboard suspension in the way of the rad my car kept gettin very hot even with the fan on the whole time. I have now been given a mk2 escort rad that will fit perfectly around 6 inches from the front of the nose cone. The only problem i have now is fitting a header tank as i will not be able to reach the rad filler cap to top up the water. Also my dad advised that the rad will now be lower than the top of the engine.

 

Please could someone advise of how i should go about this as i want to get back on the track. I also have the option of either having a pull or push fan. which is best??

 

Thanks in advance.

 

Joe

[Guest erichetherington]

Tell your dad that radiators have been lower than the tops of engines since the mid 50's! I'd go for a fan that pulls through, less obstruction in front of it that way, you can convert them if you have a push one.

[Bob Tucker]

H Joe,

The header tank acts as a reservoir for the water, and a place for displaced air to collect.

It needs to be the highest part of the system, so usually gets mounted on the firewall.

 

Plumbing can be done a number of ways.

IMHO the best way is to plumb the lower (outlet) pipe from the header tank into the lowest water pipe.

Replace the pressure cap on the rad with a non pressurised one (no spring or gubbins) and plumb the

overflow pipe from the rad into the upper tube on the header tank.

Fit the pressure cap (with spring) on the header tank.

Make sure there are no high points in the piping to cause an air lock or blockage

 

This simple fix solved Rays chronic overheating on the Vette.

 

I agree (mostly!) with Eric. Id go for a puller fitted behind the rad.

But, a pusher cant necessarily be converted to a puller. Changing polarity will make th efan spin the other way, but the airfoil section of the blades will be reversed, losing at least 50% of its efficiency.

This wont work unless you can also turn the fan blade around too...which is unlikely.

HTH Bob...

 

Ps It is a Dads duty to bamboozle his son by stating the bleeding obvious.....we go on special courses to learn how to do it!!

[niduncan]

I fitted an in-line filler with a dummy radiator cap in the top hose, this is used for initially filling the system. A small diameter hose runs from this to a Rover header tank attached to the scuttle, the system is topped up through this.

 

 

 

 

[Guest joe_g40]

Thanks very much guys, this is a great help, does anyone know where i can get a non pressurised rad cap then. Also from which car should i take the header tank from. Has anyone got a recommedation.

 

Also, why do you need a header tank cap with a spring on it?

 

I am looking to use a mk2 escort 1.6 rad on my pinto 2.0. Will this be sufficient enough as it is smaller.

 

For you information, i have now got a puller fan (14") that fits perfectly.

 

Thanks Guys

 

Joe

[Longboarder]

Difficult to predict if the escort rad will be OK. It's not just 'Is my rad big enough?' You have to take the heat to it, transfer the heat from water to air and dump it over the side. Coolant flow, transfer efficiency and airflow.

Coolant flow is down to good pump, fanbelt, thermostat (needs to work and be fitted the right way round), correct plumbing routes, effective air bleeding to avoid air locks and not using a silted up ancient rad.

Heat transfer capacity is down to area of the rad, number of cores in the rad, number of cooling fins and the conductivity of the material.

Air flow is down to making sure there is a big enough unobstructed hole (large size mesh or none) in the front for air to go in, ensuring all the air goes through the rad (cowl it in) and then making sure the air can get back out from under the bonnet (more bonnet vents).

I suspect you would be better going for an efficient modern ally rad (ie polo but cortina or coolman do work ok) , fitting it at an angle of 30 to 40 degrees (more effective airflow) in front of the chassis in the nose, cowling it in and providing more vents under bonnet. The plumbing suggested by Bob is spot on.

 

Nigel

[Guest joe_g40]

so why do you need to angle the rad. I may have a rad made up unless anyone knows of a modern rad that is small enought to fit in nosecone. Do you tilt the rad forward or back.

i am looking to go to the nurburg in may so want to sort it properly.

[Longboarder]

Angle the rad with the top back towards the driver. It forces the air to do a down turn to go through the rad and this increases efficiency by creating higher air pressure and thus higher density air passing through. Sounds a bit odd but it does increase heat transfer. It also means you can fit a bigger rad in the same vertical space.

As for new rads Polo 1.0L 1983-85 serk part no. SER2719517 This is 480mm wide by 325mm high. Make up a cardboard blank that size and have a play to see if it will fit in the nose.

 

Nigel

[Guest joe_g40]

Thanks very much for your help. I will try all of you suggestions and i will also let you know how it is going.

 

Regards

Joe

[Guest salty_monk]

There's a nice Seat Rad that also has a built in threaded boss for a temperature sender for the fan.... Take a look at http://nw.rhocar.org it's in there somewhere. The car it's in has a red chassis & the part number has been listed before on here. Use the search function & you should find it.

 

1.6 Escort may be single core.... or it might be the same as a coolman. Whatever an old rad will not be as efficient.

 

Dan