L/w Rear Shock Mount

[Guest DoLittle52]

Rats, this front suspension problem is more aggravating than I had imagined. O'reilly's was kind enough to allow me to search their shelves, but coming up with a drag link/tie rod end that fits the supplied A arm and the Pinto upright/spindle is eluding me. The female threads in the A arm are 18 mm which restricts the drag link/tie rod end population.

 

The taper in the Pinto spindle is different from the tapers generally found on non-domestic vehicles.

 

So I spent my money on the spindles and now it seems that I will have to scource the Sierra/Merkur spindles and then the ball joint and drag links we have identified.

[Guest ScotMac]

Chuck, Joe also used the pinto stuff...since he said he is almost done, i am sure he figured out something for the track rod ends. Joe?

[Guest JNS]

HI CHUCK,

I WILL TRY AND HELP. THE UPPER BALL JOINT CAME WITH MY KIT, THE ONLY MARKS ON IT ARE (AKAL) IF THAT MEANS ANYTHING TO OUR FRIENDS ACROSS THE POND, OTHER THEN THAT I CAN'T HELP YOU WITH THAT PART.

AS FAR AS THE STEERING TIE ROD END GOES YOU COULD GET TIE ROD ENDS THAT FIT THE PINTO SPINDLE THEN HAVE A THREADED TUBE WELDED TO YOUR STEERING RACK ON BOTH ENDS, HAVE THE TUBE THREADED TO THE TIE ROD THREADS. YOU COULD ALSO USE A ROD END AND A ADJUSTABLE TIE ROD ADAPTOR STUD (SPEEDWAY PART NUMBER(916-36055) IN PLACE OF PINTO TIE ROD END. I WILL TRY AND FIND THE PART NUMBER FOR MY TIE ROD END THAT I USED WITH A SCHIM. WOULD A PINTO RACK AND PINION WORK?

GOOD LUCK

JOE

[Guest DoLittle52]

Because I did not anticipate this problem I had the A arms powder coated, cutting and welding on them will require additional powder coating.

 

I used crazedlist/Craig's List last night to locate several Merkur's that are being parted. I expect that I will end up buying the Merkur uprights and the ball joints that have been identified here.

 

I have Triumph tie rod ends that I think will work with the rack and pinion I have.

[Guest ScotMac]

Chuck, you didn't get a steering rack w/ the kit, either? The one i got from RH is actually pretty good. It is a bit slow (3.5 turns lock to lock), but i matches up w/ the suspension geometry VERY well, and has exactly the right threads for the merkur/sierra tie rod ends (though i used a rose joints). It is actually a rear steering arm based rack for RHD, that is perfect for LHD and front steering arm based when you turn it around (it mounts on the bottom of the steering rack mount plate rh supplies). I have a thread on here where i detail exactly what car it is from and the part no. Let me know if you want me to look it up.

 

-Scot

[Guest ScotMac]

Here is the link to the exact post specifying what steering rack RH supplied me. You might want to take a look at the rest of that thread, to get an idea what i did for the rack.

 

http://community.rhocar.org/index.php?s=&a...st&p=116129

 

Scot

[Guest JNS]

HI GUYS,

THE STEERING I WAS SUPPLIED IS JRM310.I WOUNDER WHAT THE DIFFERENCE IS.

JOE

[Guest DoLittle52]

I received a steering rack and I think it fits a Triumph TR-6.

[Guest ScotMac]

Chuck, yours must be from Coveland, since that is right up their alley. Mine (and Joe's) are from RH. I have no idea how well the triumph will work, but i know the Fiesta one from RH works well.

 

Joe, i have no idea how the 310 differs from the 311. Maybe threads? or splines?

Edited February 27, 2008 by ScotMac

[Guest DoLittle52]

Yesterday I started riveting and bonding. The 3M 5200 adhesive take 7 days to bond so I have plenty of time if I screw up.

 

The air rivet gun from Harbor Freight works great, takes three pulls put it puts in a tight rivet.

 

Today I am going to buy an air powered drill and an an abrasive cut off tool.

 

Joe, since you used the Pinto spindles what lower ball joint did you use? Did the ball joint come with the kit?

[Guest JNS]

HI CHUCK,

I got my lower ball joint with the kit, but it looks like the one that Scot posted on (61). You will have to make a shim for it.

Joe

[Guest ScotMac]

HI CHUCK,

I got my lower ball joint with the kit, but it looks like the one that Scot posted on (61). You will have to make a shim for it.

Joe

 

Chuck, congrats on starting on the chassis. Hope it is going well. Now that i have mine on four wheels again, i am doing the pedal box (floor mount) and running the brake lines. I don't know much about flaring, but i am learning. It appears that Stainless-Steel-Brake-Co wants me to do a double flare w/ stainless tubing for all the connections on the line-kit i bought from them. It is interesting to do double flares on stainless. Had to get a fairly heavy duty flare tool, and it still is just putting out "ok" flares.

 

Yes, Joe used the L/W standard lower balljoint (and i am pretty sure it is the one that Nigel found and that i posted a link to). It will work perfectly for connecting up w/ the bones, but (as Joe mentioned) will require some kind of customization to fit the taper in the pinto upright/spindle.

 

Hey Joe, how much more to do? Any photos??

 

Cheers, -Scot

[Guest DoLittle52]

ScotMac got a body shop catalog today that has a hydraulic flare tool, if you are interested I will look up the details.

 

I received an R1 Yamaha motorcycle shock and it looks good although I don't have any idea what the spring rate is. It springs and shocks the rear end of a Yamaha so logic seems to tell me that it would be a relatively light spring. (around 100 pounds). It was cheap so I will try it and if necessary I will chuck the spring up on a mandrel and shave off some metal.

[Guest DoLittle52]

1989 MERKUR XR4TI 2.3L L4 F/I - All

1988 FORD THUNDERBIRD 2.3L L4 F/I - All

1988 MERKUR XR4TI 2.3L L4 F/I - All

1987 FORD THUNDERBIRD 2.3L L4 F/I - All

1987 MERKUR XR4TI 2.3L L4 F/I - All

1986 FORD MUSTANG 2.3L L4 F/I - All

1986 FORD THUNDERBIRD 2.3L L4 F/I - All

1986 MERCURY COUGAR 2.3L L4 F/I - All

1986 MERKUR XR4TI 2.3L L4 F/I - All

1985 FORD MUSTANG 2.3L L4 F/I - All

1985 FORD THUNDERBIRD 2.3L L4 F/I - All

1985 MERCURY COUGAR 2.3L L4 F/I - All

1985 MERKUR XR4TI 2.3L L4 F/I - All

1984 FORD MUSTANG 2.3L L4 F/I - All

1984 FORD THUNDERBIRD 2.3L L4 F/I - All

1984 MERCURY CAPRI 2.3L L4 F/I - All

1984 MERCURY COUGAR 2.3L L4 F/I - All

1983 FORD MUSTANG 2.3L L4 F/I - All

1983 FORD THUNDERBIRD 2.3L L4 F/I - All

1983 MERCURY CAPRI 2.3L L4 F/I - All

1983 MERCURY COUGAR 2.3L L4 F/I - Turbo

[Guest ScotMac]

Yes, let me know on the flare tool. I have finally made *one* good one (out of 4). I think i have the procedure down, but i am worried that i will to bends based on that one, and then get to the other end and screw up the final one...hence wasting that entire length!!

 

The criteria is that it works on Stainless. Most are just for copper, aluminum and mild steel.

 

What is the open and closed length of the shock? Is it adjustable? Are you thinking of using it for the front or the back? I assume front. We don't have much margin for error in the front, in terms of travel distance. I have double adjustable QA1's, which are VERY expensive. I got the QA1 DDR3955B for $500/pair. I believe Summit NOW has them for $600/pair. They are 12.625" extended and 9.5" collapsed.

 

-Scot