Ok This Is The Ticking Noise

[Guest fozzy2007]

Ok this car has had a new cam, cam bearings, lobes, oil spray bar and head skimmed so the head it cool. guy in the machine shop said valves are also fine.

 

People on hear say its the small end which i aim on doing next, but just in case someone has heard the sound and knows what it is before i go through that, hear it is.

 

 

all comments welcome,

 

Regards

 

Rob

[Guest fozzy2007]

P.S. it used to be a light tick and now its a tick/light knock kinda noise

[Guest salty_monk]

All I can hear is valves..... Water pump bearing can sometimes make a noise.

 

Dan

[Guest Bazwaz]

I don't know if it's the video amplifying the noise but it sounds like your valve clearances need attention.

 

Barry.

[Longboarder]

I would say top end, cam/followers/clearances mostly. What new cam was used and with what springs and followers? I would also check how the cam was first run in to work harden the lobes and followers and check for possible spring binding. Also may have exhaust manifold gas leak which can sound quite mechanical. Doesn't sound like a big or small end problem.

 

Nigel

[Guest fozzy2007]

Cool, well i think i well may look for a new head and get it proffesionally fitted and worked in i think. have had the rocker cover off and all lobes and followers look in good condition. but i think i may have not run it in properly as there is no rev counter fitted may have been well of with the revs possibaly. not to mention one of my holes to secure the exhaust to the head (no pegs, just a bolt with a nut for extra tightening) is threaded. will give it a go with another head and see how that goes. (wish i had not sold my spare head to make space now).

 

thanks all

 

Rob

[Longboarder]

If all the followers and cam lobes look good they probably are. Damage is usually pretty obvious. May just need clearances adjusting. Check cam to follower gap with the cam lobe pointing upwards and adjust to inlet 0.2mm(8thou) and exh 0.25mm(10thou).

The manifold can be held on with studs and nuts or bolts. As the RH manifold has a thin flange the original bolts may bottom out in the threaded holes in the head. Slightly shorter bolts or packing washers will make sure the flange compresses the gaskets properly. Pull the manifold off and inspect for signs of leaks. Don't just ditch what may be a perfectly good head until you are sure what the fault is and that a head swap is the only option.

 

Nigel

[Guest fozzy2007]

Have just within the last few mins bought another head anyhow so will see if that makes a difference but while the head is off i will take out the exhast manifold and get it skimmed as it is a little lumpy and rusty on the mating face. if it solves the problem then i have a spare head that i can get rebuilt and keep for emergencies or upgrades. If it does not stop it then i will have to look and either replacing the block or rebuilding it i quess. lets hope its the head however. im a newbie when it comes to mechanics so more then likely it is the cam. I say it looks good but no 100% sure there is not a slight dip in one of them.

[Guest fozzy2007]

water pump is a brand new one, my brothers boss broke it so he replaced it. which makes me feel bad as i was using his auto electrical and diesel garage as my home for 3 weeks, not to mention i took up a whole pit for the three weeks and used all the guys tools for three weeks and used all the guys whenever free for two weeks. then he accidentally breaks the water pump and then pays for a new top of the range one. got to be one of the best guys i have ever met. (I did explain this too him and he told me to be quiet) P.S Its shorts auto elctrical in swansea if anybody has any diesel problems or electrical problems.

[Guest salty_monk]

I imagine the fact that the bolts on the manifold are bottoming out is what has caused that one to strip.... You can likely helicoil it (maybe even whilst it's still on the vehicle).

 

Dan

[Guest chris brown]

Sounds to me as if it has an exhaust manifold leak. Remove all the studs and replace with new (shorter ones) and any that are striped in the head fit helicoils (as Dan says there is no need to remove the head). It seem a good way of getting rid of cash just changing bits on spec

[Derek]

That sounds remarkably like the noise my cam made, just before the car went onto the breakdown truck!

 

When I took the followers out the damage was apparent, the number 1 cylinder exhaust follower was about 2mm thinner than the others and what should be a polished face looked like a ploughed field. The damage to cam was not easy to see but once out using the finger test I could just feel a bad spot on the closing side of the lobe.

 

 

I wondered if the followers would come out with the head still on? Just to check.

 

http://community.rhocar.org/index.php?show...mp;#entry154480

[Guest fozzy2007]

I think your right about the cam, with no rev counter it was tircky to guess the rpm and a few times my hand slipped of the cable and the revs died and i had to pull them back up again. it was only a cheap cam to start with. about £100 originally but the guy had it sat on the back shelf for 10 years so i got it for £40 after bartering a bit. will go for pro installnext time i need it. will try another head anyhow as i cant get to the number 4 exhaust holes to helicoil them anyhow. servo in the way. will let you know what happens.

 

regards to all

 

Rob

[johnlrichardson]

Rob

Remove the rockers from No 1cyl so both valves are closed . Remove plug lead from No 1 spark plug and run the engine to see if the noise goes off If not do the same with No2 cyl then 3 then 4 but reassemble after each try

If its the cam shaft one of them will take the noise off.

 

 

John R

[Guest AWhite]

A good way to find out where the noise is coming from is to use a long screwdriver with your ear against it and touch various bits of the engine (be careful) and you should be able to tell where abouts its definitely coming from.

 

I can't really tell from the video but a friend of mine had a similar knock and it turned out to be one of the main bearings had worn through and fallen into the sump leaving the crank to wobble around. Replacing the bearings sorted problem. Does it get worse with different engine load. From memory it was worse for my mate when the engine was working hard.

 

Just a suggestion. You may be able to check by dropping sump before dismantling the engine. If nothing else shows up.

 

Andy