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Dohc 2.0l - Fitting Alternator


Guest FLUX

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Any one with experience of fitting a 2.0L DOHC to the Robin Hood know how they got around the problem of the ALternator sitting where the Steering Shaft goes.

Pictures of fitments would be very helpful

 

I was thinking about sitting the shaft between the Alternator and the Engine block, or locating the alternator to the nearside of the engine below the water pump as there seems to be some mounting holes down there.

 

Thanks

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Guest mick mead

FLUX That is exactly what i did as TURBO said

Had to use spacers to make sit in line with crank pulley, also had to fit a manual adjuster for setting tension on belt,

this was made from a single pulley guide, a metal plate and a threaded adjuster bar which fit's to the bottom of the alternator and to engine block where there is a 17mm hole already.

Not got pic's at min, will try and get some. :D

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this is where mine is at present,it was put there by previous owner

but I want to shift it to under water pump.

can I use a ready made bracket or do I need to fabricate one

any photos anyone has of alt under wpump would be good to see

cheers Paul

post-3784-1254562859_thumb.jpg

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I had mine fitted on the intake side but had the steering shaft going through the belt this can be avoided using the belt pensioner pulley to snake it above shaft as I think Jon Bradbury did.

I did make up a mount to mount below the water pump as Graham Bowden but the DOHC chassis had a tube in the way where it fitted so never used it.

I had a clear out the other month and binned it along with 2 alternators. Pics on my web siteLINK and Jon.LINK

 

Stephen

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Mine is down on the exhaust side too.

Cut off the original mounting piece , drilled and tapped .Fitted to a flat palte using the 3 mountings avalaible on the side of the block.

there should be pics on www.gbowden.co.uk

 

Better off with a small denso !!

 

 

 

Graham B

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Guest chrispine

Got a Superspec with 2L dohc, alternator on offside but very close to steering shaft and body, also had to cable tie top hose up to stop it rubbing on alternator pully, alternator mounted on what looks like homemade brackets, can take pics tomorrow if you want them, looking to remount mine this winter though, bought it in Feb, used it for the summer and listed (LONG) what needs doing this winter.

 

Chris

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  • 5 weeks later...
Guest malcolmc

Graham, do you know of a smaller alternator that can be fitted instead ? I have loosely fitted up the standard alternator on the exhaust side with a home-made bracket but it still fouls on the chassis tube close to the engine mount. I assume that with a lower current demand a much smaller capacity alternator would be fine for the requirements of the kit car.

regards, Malcolmc

 

 

Mine is down on the exhaust side too.

Cut off the original mounting piece , drilled and tapped .Fitted to a flat palte using the 3 mountings avalaible on the side of the block.

there should be pics on www.gbowden.co.uk

 

Better off with a small denso !!

 

 

 

Graham B

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Malcolm,

Mine is the standard unit, mounted low .i.e. centred under the chassis tube. Any alternator that you can get the multi V belt to drive in the right direction will do. the car doesnt take much power compared to the original Sierra --no electric windows, A/C, heated rear window, door locks, courtesy lights, etc. All it needs to do is keep up with the engine and lights ( possibly a heater blower). People have moded units from Suzukiis etc.. Tour you local scrappie.. The mounting , is , as you make it. Multi Vee belts can be purchased in many lengths ( every 10mm if I remember correctly).

 

graham

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I used the original 3 holes but made a plate about half the width of original mounting and moved adjustment arm off the water housing.

 

OK, we have done the SOHC one now for a 205 block. Not sure what the difference would be for a DOHC but will get someone with one down to Dunsfold and marry it up. (any offers?)

 

With the SOHC, the original mount is binned and one of ours fitted (£20+postage) to the original holes. This brings the alternator down from the exhaust manifold and in from the steering shaft.

 

Unfortunatly, because of the increased angle the adjustment arm now catches on the alternator cooling splines so the arm must effectivly be lowered as well. We supply a extention that is welded by you at the right angle to allow adjustment of the alternator while clearing the splines. Depending on the angle, you may need to grind a bit of a curve in the side of this arm to accomodate the bell housing of the original mounting point.

 

Benefit of this solution is that it's simple in that it uses the original mount points, wire positions, alternator and bolts and it requires only one small weld. It's also cost effective costing only £20 plus postage and you need to spend a couple of quid on a new belt. I think mine was a 195 x 9.5 ( x 10 is also OK )

 

Parts supplied in plain steel so can be painted whatever colour / finish you require.

 

Unfortunatly I haven't got any pictures as yet as my camera was left by the future ex Mrs Knockie in a Hotel room near Stratford. (It's a long story). However, I am expecting it to make the trip back down the M40 by the end of the month and will post them then.

 

The steering rack brackets are also ready for both Sierra and Escort racks. Priced at £30 plus postage. These are one piece ali milled units with fixings and I'm hoping Mad Dog will do a write up on them soon when he's fitted them. Will be posting up an advert in "for sale" along with pictures and other parts as they become availiable.

Alternator_bracket.pdf

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I did this mod as per Graham Bowden on the left side.The only problem I then had was the belt adjustment.The pivotting of the alternator did not affect the belt tension over the limited range of movement available.I fitted an idler pulley (2nd hand one supplied by GBS) to some mounting holes on the front of the block via a slotted arm.

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