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Sliding Pillar


keith kelly

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ok think i have most bits i need to put the pillars back together, one question though. Not sure how to put it but here goes.

 

I have a replacement bearing for the top and as recommended by others alread i am planning to fit a washer on top to spread the load. however what is the purpose of the bearing as if i fit a washer over the top of it does it not just become a bush? the plate ontop of the spring will spread across both rings at the bottom and the washer will do the same on the top thus rendering it useless.

 

even if i stick to the origional way all the load will be on the centre ring of the bearing again just funtioning a bush??

 

i cant quite get my head around what the origional one would have done as it just sat ontop of the spring with a peice of pipe ontop and cant fathem how this would provide any bearing type activity. also bearing are not deisigned to funtion in this way are they?

 

not that i am that clued up on this sort of thing, but the bottom of the suspention uses a compliance bush, if what i am saying above is correct can i not do the same for the top?

 

any help will be greatly appriciated. i am also still after a copy of the vids to see how the origional desgn goes togetherif anyone has them to lend

 

 

thanks keith

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Guest Techmage

It all depends which video the original builder followed, as he changed his mind on the way it went together which is why it's shown on the videos at least twice.

To save confusion I won't go through the original way, but the main difference is that in order to make space for the 2 bolts that keep the camber from changing a small piece of tube was required onto of the bearing. This caused a much smaller contact area and in most cases lead to failure (breakup) Hense the need for a washer ontop as this spreads the load from the piece of tube. (some people have replaced the tube with a drilled piece of alu rod).

 

The bearing is there to allow the twisting motion as you steer. If it wasn't there everything above it would turn as you steer gradually wearing away the top bracket.

The original bearing is working as it was designed to do. It works in the same way as the bearing in a "lasy susan"

 

The rubber bush (compliance) fits at the bottom and it there to stop the loud bang as metal meets metal when the suspension is fully extended, as when you race over a hump backed bridge.

 

Hope thats made it a bit clearer. If not I'll take a couple of closeup pictures of mine so that you can see how it goes together (well how I have done it following the video's)

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Thanks for the info, has made things a little clearer but still a little puzzled. the bearing i have is pic 1 which i believe is not going to be suitable, the pic i am thinking of that will do what you discribe is pic 2 thats if i have put them on right

bearing_201.jpg

tapper_roller_bearing.jpg

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found my spare one

cant see much, but its basically the same as the earlier photo, with an oil/dust seal on the outside

also the hole on one half is smaller than the hole on the other

that bit is important for the sliding pillar design

if you are short of them, you can have this one gladly, but its full of dirt, and maybe not mush use

 

will soon have a complete silding pillar set avaialble, as mine is getting ditched

it isnt the same as the original hood design, and uses oilite bushes and has oil sealsinstead of the bronze lumps rhe supplied

also the bottom part of the sliding tube is fitted into the bottom of the hub, not bolted to the caliper mount

not sure on the condition of the bushes, but they are replaceable

 

dave

post-98-1266144307_thumb.jpg

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if you are still after these bearings, i have found a second one, both a bit grotty, but would most likely wash out in petrol ok

 

pm me an address and will drop them in the post to you

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It all depends which video the original builder followed, as he changed his mind on the way it went together which is why it's shown on the videos at least twice.

To save confusion I won't go through the original way, but the main difference is that in order to make space for the 2 bolts that keep the camber from changing a small piece of tube was required onto of the bearing. This caused a much smaller contact area and in most cases lead to failure (breakup) Hense the need for a washer ontop as this spreads the load from the piece of tube. (some people have replaced the tube with a drilled piece of alu rod).

 

The bearing is there to allow the twisting motion as you steer. If it wasn't there everything above it would turn as you steer gradually wearing away the top bracket.

The original bearing is working as it was designed to do. It works in the same way as the bearing in a "lasy susan"

 

The rubber bush (compliance) fits at the bottom and it there to stop the loud bang as metal meets metal when the suspension is fully extended, as when you race over a hump backed bridge.

 

Hope thats made it a bit clearer. If not I'll take a couple of closeup pictures of mine so that you can see how it goes together (well how I have done it following the video's)

 

Did I have a bearing :shok: Don't think so :D

 

As for the rubber bush :rofl: You're joking aren't you!!

 

Nothing wrong with a bit of banging. (Scared the life out of passers by :diablo:

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