2 Litre Pinto

[Guest danny_samb]

Hi all I'm after a 2 litre pinto engine bu unsure what to get, seen some for sale saying has 205 stamped on the block and some that don't, which is the best and which do I want

Thanks

[maccavvy]

205 block is from a later injection engine iirc and has stronger rods etc ,its the better one to go for

[Guest mower man]

205 block are stronger as maccavvy says the older 200block is ok unless you are going for ultra rpm, power etc mower man

[speedtripledan]

my pinto wasnt 205 and was fine with 155bhp state of tune still going strong with the new owner

[Snapperpaul]

Some 205 were not injection therefore do not have the later injection rods which are safe to 7,200 and will visit 7,500 here and there.

The injection head is better with a smooth inlet port short side turn, worth 5 to 10 bhp.

The 205 block is only any use if you are over boring to 93mm, to many people obsess over a 205 block then don't use the benefits of having one.

[Guest danny_samb]

I want to bore to a 2.1 so go for a 205 block

[Snapperpaul]

2.1 gives a bit more torque and in some cases pub bragging rights.

If I was doing it again, forged pistons in a standard bore, cosworth rods and some serious compression

[Guest danny_samb]

What pistons rods and crank would use if it was bored out to a 2.1

[Snapperpaul]

Easy option is +2.25 pistons on Pinto rods

The next option is modified 2.8 V6 pistons on Cosworth rods.

Pinto rods have interference fit gudgeon pins, cosworth has fully floating pins.

Standard crank is fine but dowl the flywheel

Edited June 5, 2012 by Snapperpaul

[Guest MarkB]

my pinto wasnt 205 and was fine with 155bhp state of tune still going strong with the new owner

 

I ragged the hell out of this engine at Blyton, the other sunday, to the point where i was expecting to kill it............ it kept going and going, didnt use a drop of oil, coolent temp stayed perfect and it still purrs like a kitten, a rough throated kitten, but purrs all the same.

 

As i have mentioned in previous threads my car has been up against standard 32/36 carbed pintos, efi pintos, highly tuned pintos, lighter cars with exactly the same setup as mine, 2.0 pinto fr32 cam, fireblade carbs, megajolt etc and i can honestly say save your money, there is not much diffrence between them all, not enough to say money well spent, forget cossy this that and the other, if your going to spend stupid money, buy a stupid engine.............. if you buy a stupid engine your going to run it as designed, splash out stupid money modifying an old engine you are going to push it beyound its design limits which equals problems after problems. Prime example, a friend of mine had mclaren rebuild his alfa something or other engine (car featured on Top Gear once), nearly 30k later he had an extremley fast car.... for a month, then the timing belt let go.... another rebuild, then the aux belt let go and slammed into the timing belt on test, another rebuild..... each time no warranties given, 3rd time lucky, after rebuild he was invited by Alfa to go to there factory and track... he drove there..... well nearly..... another rebuild. For the money he spent he could have chose from a vast variety of prebuilt supercars..... he now realises that but, he has just got his car back.... rebuilt.... nearly a year after the last engine death.

[Guest danny_samb]

Where do you get the 2.25 pistons from sorry to sound stupid, what do you mean by v6 modified pistons on cosworth rods, what would be the best to go for, I'm thinking of track days and fast road use so will be getting a beating so want something strong and reliable

[Guest danny_samb]

What are people's opinions bore out to 2.1 and oversize pistons and stronger rods etc, or standard bore with forged rods and pistons, what will greater compression achieve

Thanks

[Snapperpaul]

The 2.8 Ford V6 pistons are 93mm wide but shorter than pinto, cosworth rods are longer than pinto so the combination means the piston top is at the correct height, the cosworth rod has floating gudgeon pin the V6 piston need grooves cut for circlips to retain the gudgeon pin.

The pinto bore is 90.8, the pinto oversize pistons are + 2.25mm over standard making the piston 93mm. This combination gives standard pinto height and interference fit on to the standard rod.

Edited June 6, 2012 by Snapperpaul

[Snapperpaul]

Now I am getting in a bit deep but I have done a lot of research and have built a high spec Pinto.

 

Pinto rods, 6,800 to 7,200 with visits to 7,500

Cosworth rods 9,000

 

Cast pistons 7,500 to just under 8,000 BUT can only take 10.5 to 1 compression some go to 10.7 to 1 but fuel and spark must be spot on.

 

When you start looking at cams this is when yor bottom end starts to dictate what cam you can run.

Cams need more compression the wilder they are, if you don't increase compression the engine is hopeless before it comes on cam, then very peaky. Consider compression increase as extra bhp for little money, you can increase from 9.2 to 1 to about 9.7 to 1 with just a thinner gadket after that it's block deck or head skim.

I ran a 2.1 with a standard injection head thin gasket (Adjusa 1mm) FR32 cam, bike carbs and Megajolt and had a dyno sheet for 130 bhp and 1305ft/lbs

 

If I was going to do it all again I would save up for forged pistons on cosworth rods.

Any revs you like at any compression ratio you can find the fuel for.

 

 

[Guest danny_samb]

I'm only running twin 45 webers no injection so what would be the best route to go without going injection