Brake Sevo

[Guest 2b cruising]

I use Ate blue racing fluid. Not quite expensive blue race spec but still dot 4. Deal for fast road/track use. Boiling point of 280'c. It is German stuff, highly rated and coetatively priced on eBay. Can't remember the price but know it was good for what you get. I bought 2x 1ltr tins. Never had a problem with it.

[theduck]

No need to drain fluid if you are careful, just unbolt from servo, remove servo, rebolt servo to bulk bhead with pushrod in place. Then with that done you can bleed the brakes.

[Guest Ian & Carole]

Ian, you make it sound simple

 

Take into consideration, I haven't even looked at this yet (on the things to do, after wife's permission list).

 

I gather I just purchase the long rod above.

Drain brake fluid (as it's old, crap and boiled last year).

Disconnect the copper brake lines.

Remove m/c and servo from bulk head.

Connect rod to pedal and thru bulkhead into sierra m/c bypassing the old servo.

Bolt it all together on bulkhead.

Re-attached/cut and re-flare new copper pipes in new position.

Fill with new brake fluid (any recommendations)?

Bleed brakes and get wife to test drive.

 

Unless you brake pipes are miles too long there really is no need to disturb the hydraulic side of things at all.

Unbolt the m/cyl. and gently pull forward so that it comes off the studs.

REMOVE THE SERVO and fit new push rod, gently ease the master cylinder backwards to its new home making sure your pipes stay with nice clean curves bolt it all together and send Nikki out for a drive, after checking her life policy and you have your man bits in a cricket box for when she returns. :rofl:

[Guest danny_samb]

Could I just get the shaft inside the servo shortened, the servo would fit if I can make the brackets and the push rod shorter, would that work?

[Guest 2b cruising]

As long as you can get the same amount of pedal travel, modifying the mounts and rod would be fine.

[Guest danny_samb]

How would I make sure I get the same amount of pedal travel

[Guest 2b cruising]

With shorter rod and mounts would anything fowl the full pedal travel. If not you are safe to do it.

Mock up your new brackets and have someone hold in possition or temp mount it. Hold pedal in upper possition and measure distance between rod pin hole centre and rear of where your m/cyl piston would be at rest. Take a couple of mm off this distance for free play to ensure no pre pressure in the system at rest. That is how long your rod should be.

If it is not possible to cut the rod that short, it cannot be done. You will have to lengthen the mounts until this is achievable. Do this operation before cutting your rod and that might save you ruining the rod.

HTH. Ken.

[Peter Bell]

Dino before you dismantle it try just dis-connecting the servo hose from the manifold and block the hole up (on the manifold) and drive the car. You may decide you need a smaller master cylinder as well.

[Guest 2b cruising]

Sorry forgot you were on remote linkage. The pedal hole should read the cross lever hole where the rod mounts to it.

[Guest danny_samb]

What servos are smaller as it may be possible to get a smaller servo and mountil it slightly higher

[Guest 2b cruising]

Look on the net or in ebay. Common servo's go from about 1.8:1 to 3:1.

The physical size alters with the rating. ie, the smaller the ratio number will mean less diameter of the bellows. As for complete depth of the unit,it is possible to get shorter units but rare. It would be easier to get shorter m/cylinder.

What servos are smaller as it may be possible to get a smaller servo and mountil it slightly higher

[Guest danny_samb]

hi sorry to bother you again, I think iv identified that my servo is off a mk4 escort, do you know if any other servos are smaller, such as a fiesta mk4 or an escort mk2, could I just bolt my master cylinder onto one of these new servos.

Thanks