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Stalk Question


Guest A.B

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Lights are all in plug 1.

Power in the brown/black should be permanent live. The mains flashing when switched should confirm the mains wiring from plug to lamps. You confirm power in white wire when when you flash.

You should have power in black/white when ignition and dash head light switch is on. It should be ignition live but might have been wired permanent live.

The column switch simply serves this out to either the yellow or the white wires. You have already confirmed the white. That suggests the fault is in the yellow wire.

This is all assuming that I have made the right guesses about how your car is wired up.

 

It doesn't all make sense. Can you double check that when you flash it is the main beam that flashes. Then check that when you put on dip beam it is dip beam. I can only make sense of it if in fact these are both activating the same element in the lamp.

 

Nigel

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It's quite hard to tell exactly what's going on as its a sealed unit that looks as though it has one bulb for dip and one for full beam so possibly you are right there might well be a mix up

 

I'll show you the fixed headlight wiring;

 

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These are the wiring diagrams I have;

 

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And

 

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I have had to go back into work so I'll have to pick iup the testing again hopefully tomorrow but if not I have Thursday off. I have a feeling I actually don't have dip beams, just side lights and flash full beam. I was checking it myself and there's a chance as I moved the three position dash switch all I was actually seeing was side lights and not dip beam.

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Thats all good info.

Sealed beam unit, main and dip filaments in the unit and a stick-on sidelamp hanging below it. Red wire is main beam power (right in your pic). Green wire is dip beam power (top). Black wire is earth to both filaments (left).

There should also be two wires to the sidelight bulb which look like white and brown. They are sidelight power and earth.

It's usual to join sidelight earth and headlight earth together so only one earth wire to connect into the loom.

 

The wiring diagrams are clearish. You do have positive switching of separate main and dip relays. It also looks as if you have individual fuses for left and right side lights F1 F2, left and right main F3 F4 and left and right dip F5 F6.

Find the fuses in the fusebox. Testing from there will be a great help. Are they blown? Are they getting a supply from the column switch.

 

(Half an hour leaning over the bonnet and I and many others could sort it!) It's B hard doing it at long range!

 

Nigel

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Sorry I've been away with work, hopefully I'll get back on this from tomorrow!

 

Can you advise a sequence of tests to carry out so I know how the power runs.

 

Does it go 3 way dash switch, stalk, relay, fuse & out to the light?

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3 way dash switch, stalk, relay, fuse & out to the light? Partly right. There are two circuits for each light. 12v power to dash switch goes to 56 on stalk goes to terminal 85 or 86 on relay and out of 86 or 85 to earth. That's the switching circuit. All it does is make the connection in the relay between terminals 30 and 87. When it's off they are open/disconnected. When the dash and column switches are closed they energise 85/86 and 30 is connected to 87. The relay is just an electromechanical switch.

The first part is power/dash switch/column switch(56) is common. (so if any headlight beam works apart from flash this part is good.)

Column switch then has dip and main positions and two separate outputs 56A and 56b to a dip and a main relay ( Respectively labelled 3 & 4 in one drawing and 7 & 8 in the other!). Either of terminals 85 or 86 are used on the relay for these switching wires and the other of 85/86 goes to earth.

 

The lighting circuit it switches for dip is:

1/. power to term 30 on relay(4 or 8) {this will probably be a constant live but could be an ignition live. Whatever there must be power here always when the engine is running. Simple to test.

2/. through the relay and out at 87.

3/. from 87 a wire goes to fuses 5 & 6 and continues separately toleft or right headlamp dip filiament.

4/. through the filiament and out the black earth wire.

5/. away to earth

 

The main beam circuit is designed the same but goes via relays 5 or 7 and via fuses 3 & 4.

 

I will draw it up but much of the circuits are already proved. You need to find out exactly which lights are working. Flash may flash dip not main. Dip may be dip or main and vice versa. Wires get crossed.

You can feel or hear a relay work. Put a finger on it and operate the switch. Remove a relay and see what stops working. Then label that relay. Same with fuses.

Then you work from start to finish down each line. Ignition on. coil disconnected. Fully charged battery. Helper?

1 Has terminal 30 got power? Yes then

2 Does terminal 87 get power when it should be on. Yes then

3 Does fuse 3 get power. Yes, is it blown/does it give out power. Yes then

4 Does that power arrive at the main beam bulb. Yes then

5 Does it come out the earth. Yes then

6 Is the earth good to the chassis.

That's the left main beam checked At the start there is power. Somewhere along the line as you break into the circuit progressively following it the power may disappear. The failure is between the point you had power and the point it was lost.

You can follow each circuit this way.

 

Good luck

Nigel

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  • 4 years later...
Guest Theo Davies

Hey guys, I’ve got this indicator on a kitcar and the indicators have just stopped working. The hazards still work though - any idea why or what is the issue? 

Surely the signals must still be working because the hazards do? 

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Guest SFX-Joe

Agreed with above. Hazards have a direct live feed so if your fusebox fries or you have an electrical fault they should din most occasions still work. After all they need to work if your broken down at the side of the road. I would expect it is the relay (Ticker) or the fuse. You know the lamps are working as you have hazards working so that takes them out of the process.

 

Keep us posted.

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