2 Litre Conversion

[Andy Spencer]

Can I directly replace my 1600 (not E Max) pinto with a 2 litre in an S7? Have a 4 speed box and have heard it may not match up.

 

Also have a 5 speed type 9 box from a Capri - would this fit with either engine?

 

Any tips from anyone who has done this gratefully received.

[Guest chris brown]

either should fit providing the correct clutch and spigot bearing are used

[Longboarder]

The 2L pinto is pretty well a straight swop for a 1.6. The five speed type 9 box has a 1" x 23 spline input shaft and bolts straight on. Ford dealers still stock the correct 1" spigot bearing. Use the 2L clutch and pressure plate. (A type E four speed box has the same input shaft but some early base model sierras were fitted with the weaker type 2 or 3 fourspeed boxes which have a 7/8" x 20 spline input shaft.) If you have a Type 9 box available fit it. The gearbox mount needs moving back in the chassis by a few inches for the five speed box. Propshaft should be replaced if it has the rubber donut type front 'universal' joint as these are a liability.

Go ahead and fit the 2L and type 9 box. Easy swop and you will notice the power increase and easier cruising.

 

Nigel

[Guest battery joe]

go for the 2ltr and t9 box, i've heard good things about the t9 (seems good to me to) just don't fit a granada gaitor or it will lose the reverse spring

good luck

joey

[Andy Spencer]

Thanks all for the great info. Looks like a winter job to me - and I'll have to sort a decent 2 litre pinto first. I feel a 'wanted' ad coming on.............

I also have a strange St Steel under chassis plate on mine covering g/box, prop shaft etc connected up to the rear of the chassis - liberal use of cutting disk required for access!

[Big Jim]

I also have a strange St Steel under chassis plate on mine covering g/box, prop shaft etc connected up to the rear of the chassis - liberal use of cutting disk required for access!

 

No!! Do not cut into the tub (chassis, call it what you will)

 

Remove the engine, then the g/box (some cars you take the whole lot out in one piece) undo the propshaft and take that through the engine bay. now check that the propshaft will fit your "new" g/box.

This is where it would be a good idea the put both g/boxes side by side to see the difference in length, I don't think it's much actually, so you should get away with using the same propshaft (providing it fits the output of the G/box)

depending if you had to take the engine & box out separately, or as one, then either as one again, or put the new g/box into possition complete with the propshaft located in it. (sit it on some wood & a trolley jack) fit the engine to the g/box with a couple of bolts, put the engine mountings on and drop the engine in situ.

Now you will be able to get underneath and see just where the later g/box mounting has to go, and if the propshaft is OK. It shouldn't be in the g/box "up to the 'tash" but you also don't want to have to pull it out of the g/box too far to be able to couple it up with the back axle.

If you're happy with these 2 items, drill for the g/box mounting & fix it, then couple up & check that you've got the clutch right before you connect anything else (just in case it has to come back out!)

A little tip; you need to be able to get under the car to work, so best to use a good engine lift with height, and put the car on ramps under all wheels. (this is assuming that you don't have a pit or full workshop facilities available.)

[Andy Spencer]

Thanks!!! I don't think the plate is part of the tub? Problem is the steel plate covers the whole transmission tunnel underside and appears to be bolted to the tub on either side of the car so cannot see any of gearbox or prop shaft from underneath - only the end of prop at the diff. Can't see how I will disconnect speedo cable / reverse light cable etc if taking gearbox out through engine bay and would then have to withdraw engine, g/box and propshaft through engine bay?

 

Very bizarre - has anyone else got this? Looked at it when I bought the car but wasn't planning on the upgrade then!

[Big Jim]

your's is the same as others, the panel that you're on about starts just behind the main case of the gearbox, the ally g/shift and final output etc, is hidden up the tunnel. you'll be able to undo the reverse light through the hole for the gear linkage, and look in the side of the tunnel, about 3 or 4" in front of the seat, I'll bet you find a "trapdoor" or screwed on plate to be more precise, with the speedo cable coming into the cockpit via that route. If there's not one now, you'll be putting one in!! (it's probably covered over by carpet)

On this piccy, you can see the sump, bell hsg, then main part of the g/box before the rest dissapears inside the paneling.

[Andy Spencer]

Thanks all - great advice, especially from Big Jim - glad I didn't cut into that tub plate!

Will let you know how I get on once I've got hold of a 2ltr lump..........

[Guest chris brown]

andy when looking for a 2ltr lump try to get one with a 205 block (thick walled block) and injected head (hardened valve seats)

[Guest Mike Rhodes]

I did the 1600 + 4speed to 2Ltr + 5 speed and I had to get a new propshaft made up, otherwise no probs.

Mike