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red robin

Uv prop grease type

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Super spec back on the road, ankle repaired and it hasn’t stopped raining for 2 weeks! So whilst Tuning at Raw speed I noticed I have a rumble from the transmission and sometimes a knock on initial acceleration or deceleration. Checked the play by rotating the hubs and holding the prop still and I have a slight bit of play.
So first question is how much is too much?

where is the play most likely to be coming from?  (Diff shims?)

what grease should I use on the CV prop joints?

any help very much appreciated.

 

Edited by red robin
Added video

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Hi Simon

Glad your Ok I was wondering if you still had the car as I saw it up for sale on FB last year and you mentioned your ankle then.

What tuning did you have done at Raw speed, I've been looking at some sort of tuning for my SuperSpec but I still have the original MEMS ecu.

There should be some play or backlash as it's called but don't know what's the correct amount but mine also had a knock on acceleration & deceleration and I found a couple of the universal joint bolts weren't quite done up tight enough, it was a very small amount of tightening req but that cured it straight away.

Not sure what you mean by rumble but the drive shaft and gearbox etc do make a racket as there's no sound proofing and they're about 18" from your ears!!😁

I just used normal grease on rear, haven't done front as I've heard it's a real bitch to get at and I broke both wrists at beginning of the year so still a little painful when moving them.

 

Edited by geordie40

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Hi, I had to have an ankle joint fused which I thought may stop me driving a manual but didn’t so back in the super sport. I have an Adaptronic ECU from an Australian outfit. Basic but easy to navigate. I had mot emission faIlures so had to learn about the ECU A’s no one seemed to be able to help just pre written maps none of which helped. Graham at Rawspeed builds race engines and knew just what to do. Do you have a heater matrix behind the dash? My dials steam up so guess I have a leak, choice is by pass or renew depending on if I can get to it.

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Good to hear you got through MOT, mine only just scrapes through but I've put new exhaust system & lambda on it last month do will see how it fares next time.

I don't have a heater matrix as I've found heat from the engine is usually more than enough!!.

I would have thought the matrix is behind the dash somewhere as not much room in engine bay. If you can take the dials out (looks like they're all on one seperate piece) that should give you more access.

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Yep, this evenings job. I have a narrow band sensor and set the ECU while having gas analyses at 2500rpm. I still had to block one of the two exhaust outlets to get gasses in spec. I can send you the ECU map or pics if you can use them for upload. Did you hear the knock on the video?

Edited by red robin

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Think I heard a knock but not sure as I said when I checked mine underneath I thought play was ok but while I was under I thought just check the UJ bolts and both front and rear had 2 bolts each that weren't quite done up tight enough.

Thanks for the offer of the map but the Rover MEMS ecu isn't mappable 😞.

I built my new exhaust for about £150 ( all stainless) and that's with new sports cat that I can fit for MOT and remove afterwards. I also increased exhaust pipe size as the 2" was a little restricted so went up to 2.25" but as yours is a turbo either 2.5" or even 3" would be ok and probably gain a little more oomph 😁

1st pic with cat. 2nd without.

IMG_20200504_111937.jpg

IMG_20200601_173422.jpg

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Which engine do you have ?  If it's the standard Rover T16 that is rated at 136 bhp for the normally aspirated version and 200 bhp for the turbo, so you are definitely in the ball park.  Interested to see you have a proper ECU fitted.  Like Geordie I still have the non-programmable MEMS 1.6 ECU fitted and I suspect the engine might have been tuned down a bit when they changed the software to disable the immobiliser.  I also suspect they tweaked the idle speed as we all seem to idle about 950-1000 rpm whereas the T16 is supposed to idle at 850 rpm.  No idea why they would do that.

Also glad to get confirmation that blocking off one of the exhaust outlets helps the system.  I just had a feeling in the water that mine ran a lot better with a bung in  (Update:  it blew out yesterday so I have to get a new one ).  To every one's surprise, unlike the last 5 MOTs where the emissions were marginal, my car sailed through the emissions test at last MOT.   I had run through a bottle of injector cleaner and the day before the MOT I did a 40 min run using just 3rd gear and keeping the RPM above 4000.  Might be a coincidence but I will do the same for the next one.

Can't hear the clunk on the video but Geordie's suggestion on the UV joints is a good one.   Like him, I find it incredibly difficult to grease the front one as you have to go from the top of the tunnel around the gear change.   A job I have now delegated to my friendly mechanic 😀  I also have a small amount of play in the transmission somewhere, maybe 5-10 degs of rear wheel rotation when I have her on axle stands.  But it's been like that for 23,000 miles so I don't let it worry me.

 

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7 hours ago, geordie40 said:

Good to hear you got through MOT, mine only just scrapes through but I've put new exhaust system & lambda on it last month do will see how it fares next time.

I don't have a heater matrix as I've found heat from the engine is usually more than enough!!.

I would have thought the matrix is behind the dash somewhere as not much room in engine bay. If you can take the dials out (looks like they're all on one seperate piece) that should give you more access.

Just found I have no heater matrix either, I have electric screen heaters and the heater fan on my feet seems to be bringing air from the engine bay!

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My idle is a problem, I believe a stepper motor on the throttle body is supposed to be connected to the ECU and mapped against engine temp. No matter what I programme the idle is to low when cold 650rpm but is ok when hot 900rpm so my only adjustment is on the throttle cable. So next job after greasing is see if I have power at the stepper motor, if so I need to know how many steps in a rotation to set the range.

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3 hours ago, alanrichey said:

Which engine do you have ?  If it's the standard Rover T16 that is rated at 136 bhp for the normally aspirated version and 200 bhp for the turbo, so you are definitely in the ball park.  Interested to see you have a proper ECU fitted.  Like Geordie I still have the non-programmable MEMS 1.6 ECU fitted and I suspect the engine might have been tuned down a bit when they changed the software to disable the immobiliser.  I also suspect they tweaked the idle speed as we all seem to idle about 950-1000 rpm whereas the T16 is supposed to idle at 850 rpm.  No idea why they would do that.

Also glad to get confirmation that blocking off one of the exhaust outlets helps the system.  I just had a feeling in the water that mine ran a lot better with a bung in  (Update:  it blew out yesterday so I have to get a new one ).  To every one's surprise, unlike the last 5 MOTs where the emissions were marginal, my car sailed through the emissions test at last MOT.   I had run through a bottle of injector cleaner and the day before the MOT I did a 40 min run using just 3rd gear and keeping the RPM above 4000.  Might be a coincidence but I will do the same for the next one.

Can't hear the clunk on the video but Geordie's suggestion on the UV joints is a good one.   Like him, I find it incredibly difficult to grease the front one as you have to go from the top of the tunnel around the gear change.   A job I have now delegated to my friendly mechanic 😀  I also have a small amount of play in the transmission somewhere, maybe 5-10 degs of rear wheel rotation when I have her on axle stands.  But it's been like that for 23,000 miles so I don't let it worry me.

 

Turbo engine, 170 hp at wheels so assume 210 ish at the fly wheel, the bung keeps the O2 down without that gases would fail mot.

Edited by red robin
Additional info

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1 hour ago, red robin said:

My idle is a problem, I believe a stepper motor on the throttle body is supposed to be connected to the ECU and mapped against engine temp. No matter what I programme the idle is to low when cold 650rpm but is ok when hot 900rpm so my only adjustment is on the throttle cable. So next job after greasing is see if I have power at the stepper motor, if so I need to know how many steps in a rotation to set the range.

I can check on my wiring diagram to see if the TPS is connected to ECU but I think your right. On the rover MEMS you can reset the TPS so it remeasures the steps from fully open to closed, not sure if it's the same for yours but if you turn ign to position 2 and press accelerator 5 times in quick succession you should then hear a series of clicks from TPS as it resets

 

Yeah you get quite a bit of warmth from the engine bay and you probably more as turbos don't run cool either!!

On a side note you may want to join a FB group called Kit Car Blats and then request to join the South West WhatsApp Group as there are quite a few now down here in SW and it's a good place to arrange meets etc

Edited by geordie40

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10 hours ago, geordie40 said:

I can check on my wiring diagram to see if the TPS is connected to ECU but I think your right. On the rover MEMS you can reset the TPS so it remeasures the steps from fully open to closed, not sure if it's the same for yours but if you turn ign to position 2 and press accelerator 5 times in quick succession you should then hear a series of clicks from TPS as it resets

I think Geordie is a bit confused here.  The Throttle Position Sensor is sensed by the ECU but that is for general use right across the rev range.  The Idle system in the MEMS ECU is a completely separate set of parameters.  It is incredibly complicated and the ECU actually tracks  6 different parameters:

Idle switch
Idle Set Point
Idle Hot
Idle Error
Idle Base Position
IAC Position

I have yet to find anyone (apart from the Rover engineers who designed it) who actually understands what all these do and how the idle is affected.    Even all the documentation we have on the MEMS is a bit vague.  What I do know is that when you shut down the engine the ECU runs on for about 10 seconds.  During that time it resets the stepper motor to the proper position for starting and then idling then continually adjusts the stepper motor based on engine temperature.   So if the different ECU is not carrying out that action as well, it might explain the low idle.   I suggest you PM Jeremy Richardson (jmspec), as he is the only other person I know who has used a different ECU on a turbo Rover T16.   He might be able to advise you on the wiring.

Al

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